Have you considered ZSR? Very reputable builder too https://shop.zsrengines.com/products/dart-8-dot-2-longblocks-hyd

Since supply chain is a big contributor to the delays, have you also considered sourcing some of the parts? For instance Summit has ONE Dart SHP 8.2 deck 4.125” block left in stock. Order it, ship to Woody or your chosen builder and get going on the build. Just throwing out ideas. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-31374275

 

I highly recommend Prestige, I have their 520hp crate motor with Custom grind cam from comp cams, AFR heads, man-o-war block all the bells in whistles, they give you lots of options to go with including their own branded heads/rockers arms.

customer service was great, I got my engine built in 4months. They are one of the biggest engine builders who practically get everything first, with every engine they build, they dyno it/tune it/check for any issues.

Communication was key, They send you everything regarding your build including part numbers, dyno graphs, vid of the dyno, and pictures of the build. yes, they are a little pricey, but worth every penny and wait.

If I ever get another project, I would go through prestige again without question. I highly recommend going with a long block or carb to pan (not turn key) and installing the rest yourself to keep cost down.

 

Got picks of that in your car? That’s a ton of torque

Chris

 

You also have the option of a Ford Performance Crate sfb engines with up to 460ci that may be off the shelf at some dealers. Very stout engines and with additional modifications in the future you can up the HP even more. The block itself can easily support in excess of 700 HP. The block used in that crate engine is what I started with in the build for the engine in the car in my sig, however, my build is highly modified from the crate version.

 

I got my 363 shortblock from cnc-motorsports only because the wait time was about half of Woody's.

 

Find a reputable local machine shop, work out specs with them, have them order the parts and machine/assemble?

 

My advice, if you chose this route, know what you want, know what o ask to get a happy experience. Have an undersigning up front with the builder.

 

There is also AMS racing. Just dropped in a Dart 347 from them but I see they sell Dart 363 short/long blocks.

 

Fordstrokers is just Woody and Nicole his wife. Patience!

 

Well since I am 2+ years in I have some level of patience, just not infinity. I don't enjoy the idea of ordering a $13k plus anything and waiting thaaaaat long.

I'll probably still go with Woody but I am looking for reasonable alternatives to see if any really get me what he can do for similar price in less time. I'd be surprised but I still need to make an effort so I don't kick myself for months. I don't want your saga either. Read a bit of that today.

The bigger companies like Prestige seem to be 2k or more higher than Woody. ZSR seems like a possible alternative but same time-frame.

I'm still watching the replies for others to look at. Thanks everyone so far

 

With the problems buying or even finding aftermarket performance parts because stock issues or the go to blame, Covid, it may be easier to buy a turnkey crate engine from a reputable builder. I've been trying for two years to finish building my 427W Stroker based on a DART aluminum block 9.5 deck, Callie's crank/rods and Diamond pistons. I'm about 75% there. The good stuff is getting really hard to find....

 

Completely agree..I'm building an A4 block, 2 mos for machine work, 1-3 months for anything I order; heads, cam, rockers... what I hoped to have done in the off season, is going to take me most of the next season to build. There are a multitude of pre-built engines at local shops, but it ain't cheap. Everything I saw was $15k+ for a complete longblock.

 

Apparently they are 8-9 months out. I really want their 363 w/ Woody's recommendations for part time road course car.

I’d just wait it out. Woody has a good reputation, is responsive via phone, emails and the forums (corral.com). Time will go by quicker than you think. On the plus slide, “all” his parts are top-tier brands so I’d venture to say better parts.

 

I got it from a good source (original owner of Probe pistons) that the price of the blocks being sold by Dart's new owners has had a substantial increase at the beginning of 2024. He said that most, if not all, stocking dealers will most likely be reflecting this price increase on their current stock too.

 

Have you considered a Roush crate engine,I installed one a few years ago in a Fastback I did for my former employer,it was 347 in a dart block,ported heads,roller cam-rockers, carb induction it only made 484 hp.it cost dressed in these pics $14K with the Billet Specialties drive system($2,700)

 

Without using Chinese cranks and many other Chinese parts, Jack could not build a complete crate engine. If you're spending less than $1,700.00 on a crank it's made in China. Same thing with blocks, connecting rods, pistons, cam blanks, you name it. That's why the Callie's crank I'm buying is $3,400.00, forged, machined, balanced, tested IN HOUSE. Same with their connecting rods and Diamond racing pistons. If you want quality and reliability you have to pay for it, buy American, end of story. If not, buy a grenade....

 

Ford crate motors start 15k for the Clevor style in the same horsepower range as the 363 fordstrokers.com longblock, Roush is likely more. The last time looked in 2022 I think Roush was starting at 18k. Either way the big boys are significantly more. I don't really want to spend more than I need to so looking for trustworthy alternatives in the same price range. Some more would be fine but 25% or higher doesn't seem worthwhile. I could be wrong.

 

Many people don't realize that most of what we've bought was made overseas long before this whole "buy in the USA" thing started. You get what you pay for, PERIOD! Prices have gone up, because the small business owners deserve it, the local machine shops deserve it, and the corner mechanic deserve it. I was getting labor costs of $1.5-2k for shop work on my block and $6k if they do the assembly. I've done most of my own work for years, and those numbers don't surprise me at all. Support your local shop, because it takes allot more work than you think to get the job done.

 

Agreed....

When I found my '65 I knew the VIN but seeing the parking stickers still intact, BINGO. I'm keeping the stickers on the window....takes me back 45 years....

 

I’m running the Ford Performance 363 in my 66 fastback. Awesome engine! I’m using an Inglese 8-stack EFI with terminator ECU. Couldn't be happier!

 

Find a reputable local machine shop, work out specs with them, have them order the parts and machine/assemble?

My advice, if you chose this route, know what you want, know what o ask to get a happy experience. Have an undersigning up front with the builder.

Yep, this is what I did. I had a machine shop take my 289 and stroke it to a 347. Was very happy with that engine until I destroyed it with NOS. Completely my fault. So, I went back to them and told them that I wanted a 351W stroked to a 427 and told them my desired power goals. They sourced the block and all the parts needed to complete the build. Took them about 3 months to get the engine finished at the end of 2021.

I’m running the Ford Performance 363 in my 66 fastback. Awesome engine! I’m using an Inglese 8-stack EFI with terminator ECU. Couldn't be happier!

View attachment 927396

After my 427 stroker engine was done I did something similar and went with the Borla 8 stack EFI that is also controlled by the Terminator X ECU. I also love my set up. Lots of power, fun and looks LOL.... I wouldn't change a thing.

 

Thanks everyone, fordstrokers 363 on order. Next up, what to do for cam profile? 10.8 compression 205 afrs. 3.70 gears with some road course planned. Not going to plan more than practice runs or whatever it's called. @Bad66GT have you figured out your cam? I like high rpms for sure.

 

Road course (30 year veteran), you better plan on strong mid-range, 3000 to 6500 rpm for a pushrod engine, a well ported Edelbrock Performer Air Gap (remember mid-range TORQUE), high rpm's are for drag racing. It's ''torque'' you'll need to get you out of the slower corners and up on the banking at a ''roval'' track. Torque trumps horsepower for road racing (unless you use a four cam where EVERYTHING is 6000 and above), but torque/hp ALWAYS meet at 5252, figure that one out. Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 242/248, 110 LS, 0.576/0.600 Lift hydraulic roller is a great cam for you're build....

 

Good to hear that you've pulled the trigger on it. I sourced my own block and parts but reached out to Jim a few times with questions about various minor things. He's a wealth of knowledge and didn't seem to mind shooting straight with me even though I was up front that it wasn't one of his builds. I never took advantage of that, either. I do my best not to take up someone's valuable time.
Those interactions have earned my business in the event I ever decide to build another SBF.

 

“…I sourced my own block and parts but reached out to Jim a few times with questions about various minor things. He's a wealth of knowledge and didn't seem to mind shooting straight with me even though I was up front that it wasn't one of his builds. I never took advantage of that, either. I do my best not to take up someone's valuable time.
Those interactions have earned my business in the event I ever decide to build another SBF.

I’m walking the same path, Jim is a wealth of knowledge and a true giver. He’s very active on corral.com and has answered plenty of my questions. Although I’ve rebuilt a few engines in my day I plan on paying for access to his video library, I’m sure there will be plenty of pro-builder tips to be found.

I just need to decide on a cam, I’m still waffling here.

“Did you do all of the calculations to determine final assembled compression ratio. Things such as chamber volume, piston volume, compressed head gasket thickness, gap between deck and piston at TDC, the volume between the piston top and the top ring...”

I like this calculator, I’m sure there are others just as good but it captures all the details to calc both SCR & DCR.

Jeep Strokers - Dynamic\Static Compression Ratio Calculator

 

I’m walking the same path, Jim is a wealth of knowledge and a true giver. He’s very active on corra.com and has answered plenty of my questions. Although I’ve rebuilt a few engines in my day I plan on paying for access to his video library, I’m sure there will be plenty of pro-builder tips to be found.

I subscribe to his forum and video library. Well worth it, there is great info, even though the forum isn’t active much anymore. You can still search it if you’re looking for something specific.

 

Heads up on the AFR205's, the mounting flange for the head is about a 1/4" higher than a 185 & 165 head. I'm running AFR165 heads currently, and 1/4" was enough for me to pull back on a set of 195's, and go with 185's with my current Doug's, on my '66. My exhaust is already up against bell housing.

Good luck to ya! As for the cam, there's alot of quality shops out there. Few offer complete cam/lifter kits. Include Bullet in your cam search. Look at steel lifters, aluminum has a set lifespan. Steel is more expensive, but durability is key if you're gonna track it. Crower has a real nice set of steel shaft rockers.

Glad to see you scored a Callies crank. I contacted CNC and they were out of stock, and Callies said they were discontinuing the Compstar cranks (as of Oct/Nov '23) due to price point issues ie; no profit.

My shop called me earlier, my 0 imbalance 331 (A4) and rotating assembly is ready for pick up!!!....been 2+ mos.

 

Heads up on the AFR205's, the mounting flange for the head is about a 1/4" higher than a 185 & 165 head.

For clarification, the mounting flange is raised only .125" (1/8") higher on the new AFR 205 Renegades.

From the Fordstrokers web site: "Exhaust ports and bolt pattern are raised .125 higher than stock (this rarely affects header or chassis fitment)" AFR 205 Cylinder Heads (fordstrokers.com)