Tom, Should I be concerned about an 1/8 inch out of square? I measured from all different spots diagonally and its only that much..I measured before I cut the front off and I came up with 5/16 out of square. .Using that same measuring locations..
Thanks for your answer to my question about the timing cover & which balancer/water pump to use.
I'm putting a 92 5.0 into a 65 Mustang...want it to look like a 289 so I have a C5 timing cover- the one used later in 65 production with 7 ribs on top & it takes a cast iron WP with the cover on the back.
Just want to make sure I'm planning this right. If I get the swap balancer you mentioned #80007 I'll be able to bolt that onto the engine and an original crank pulley will bolt onto that...is that right ?
So, Tom, to continue our on again off again conversation. I’m out of work battling kidney stones so I have some thinking time....in between blinding bouts of pain. So if I want to go non-points I just get the Ford 84 style dizzy, a coil and I’m good to go?
Tom, you have probably posted this a million times before, but I have the "at work, lazy and can't do a lot of surfing" syndrome. What exactly is your Explorer 5.0 setup? Sounds like you are the closest to what I intend to end up with, a good, strong driver. I plan to go Sniper EFI, Performer or Performer RPM intake, whatever dizzy/etc. that I need to make it work (I'm not too savvy on all that, but learn quickly) and a set of shorty headers, 2.5 exhaust, T-5, limited slip and 3:55 or 3.73 (want to have good highway characteristics, so I can drive around the country). I run 245/60-15s on the back, so they are pretty tall. Been a long time since I was on here, lots of new names, but I do recall you and a few of the others. Still working my way around here.
I have saved your step by step alignment post and plan to use it this weekend while attempting my first alignment. My question is: Is there a certain order the alignment has to follow? My plan was to set the toe first, but I am not sure if that is the right way to go as I believe the camber adjustments may affect it?
Howdy do neighbor
Springville is in the house!
I have three 66 Mustangs, 2 coupes (a 6 and an 8- both auto) one fastback (doing a 6 to 8, 30 over forged pistons, mild hi po cam, mild port stock heads, hooker long tube headers, trac loc rear, Hi po top loader. 600 holly.) still a project but engine is assembled, new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. need to be installed. Dan Morden did the machine work.
Was a member of the Memory Chasers Car Club until it died.
Also working on a 28 Model A tudor sedan hot/rat rod (302 auto)
PLUS have a 1990 Jeep YJ with fiberglass tub
MY 1985 f150 I bought new (blown engine)
and I just dragged home a 2001 chevy s10 Xtreme
You can contact me at [email protected]
The late model conversion being done when I bought the Wilwoods and since I was planing on the bullit wheels the extra track width was a bonus. One thing I don't see mentioned too much is that with all the added grip of the aftermarket suspension and fat tires you get added stress on the suspension mounting points. Highly recommend the angled brace under the upper control arm as per the Boss 302 chassis manual. Not hard to do. Rick