I haven’t posted on your thread because the site is preventing me from logging on for some reason . . I’m guessing it was just an error because so I signed up again by just adding a number 1 to the end of my name so I could see if a moderator can fix the problem.
As far as connecting your vacuum advance goes, Ford made at least 20 million cars that used ported vac and did not use the DCVC valve and they all ran just fine . . In my experience there is no real good reason to deviate from using ported vac for the dist if you do not have a problem because there is nothing to fix. You may even damage your engine by connecting to manifold vac if you do not first determine exactly how much additional vacuum is safe to run at idle.
There is a fast and easy way to determine just how much timing is best and safe for your engine and I will be happy to tell you how to do this if you want. . just email me at the address below since I might not be able to access a pm from you.
I haven't noticed any squeaking at all. I've also read that poly can squeak, but no one seemed to be worried about it in that location, mostly on the strut rods is where it seemed to be a concern. There is some lube stuff you can put on poly bushing to keep them from squeaking though. I haven't done that since I'm not squeaking.
hi...Thanks, yeah unfortunately I have way too much experience with this prob. I sand them lightly and a little at a time then keep rechecking so as to not to over sand. I have had to remove around .002" from the od before on a few and never had one jamb or be so loose it did not function. Never been lucky enough to just get away with polish but it doesn't hurt to start there does it? clean piston off each time before test fitting.
my posts have been disappearing so heres my reply for you....+1, In addition to the above I would also open and close the choke by hand when it is cold and hot. if it feels sticky at all then the brass choke piston is seizing up in the bore in which case i remove it and sand it with 320 and water or wd40 then grease it lightly and reinstall. i haVE HAD TO DO THIS MANY TIMES BECAUSE THE CHOKE BORES WARP FROM HEAT AFTER SO MANY MILES OF RUNNING but it is easier to sand the piston then the choke bore unless you remove the carb.....if it moves freely it might be that your choke cover is installed incorrectly or the spring is broken...the spring end goes between the slot in the choke arm however if your butterfly has spring resistance in both directions when engine is cold id is ok.
continued from post below....hold dist spark wire as above and turn eng over...if it does not spark now then its most likely either the coil, points or condenser...if no one can turn the eng over with the key for you then just use a small screw driver and jump the post in front of solenoid to the small post right next to it. this will turn the eng over...check points gap...wiggle top of distributor shaft to see if shaft is loose in bushing...might have been a temporary piece of debris in idle circuit.
my posts have been disappearing so here is my reply...heres a couple things to try when the prob occurs...first just drive around the block on side streets...take notice if it does it within the first 7 minutes of running or afterwards....look in carb and open throttle 1/2 way while looking for two strong streams of gas before turning it over once it dies....if there is non it is a fuel prob....if you have fuel then....turn key to on...remove spark wire at dist...hold it 1/4" away from thermostat bolt or valve cover bolt etc,...do not ever touch it to metal...have someone turn engine over and look for spark...if it rapid fires with strong yellow or blue color all is good, if not then remove hot ign wire from coil...jump hot post on coil to hot post on battery....