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    1. · Registered
      1967 Mustang Hardtop
      Joined
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      1,750 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #402 · (Edited)
      Okay, so I've been doing some research and whatnot and its seeming like buying a 25' spool of 3/8" aluminum fuel line and replacing the entirety under the car is the correct fix. Basically, the front wheel well to fuel pump line I can just copy, as well as the door/fender to the tank. So it's about 3 feet I have to "fabricate." It would be a lot of work but it's not a Mickey Mouse fix. With the sender already being 3/8" as well as most of the rubber around the engine, it seems like a good step forward in future proofing the system. And maybe it'll assist in my asphyxiation problem, even if it's not THE problem.

      I've never done this before, so somebody please correct me if I'm missing something but I believe I'll need a line cutter, line bender, and flare tool. Harbor Freight or a tool rental from Autozone is probably what I'm looking at.

      $13 for a flare tool and a cutter.
      https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html

      $8 bending tool.
      https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

      Plus a bunch of inverted flare fittings. May as well run a cleaner fuel pump to carb metal line while I have a giant spool of the stuff. I know those HF tools are sketchy at best but the quality alternatives are more than I'd like to spend right now.

      I'm still wondering if anybody has any information that could confirm my gas cap theory.

      I’m in the LA area and other shops make me nervous. My husband worked in auto body and owned his own shop when we lived out of state. Now he is an auto damage appraiser for a big company and the way he talks — a lot of these shops around the greater LA area (he mostly works the Valley now) are very shady or do shoddy work. That’s why we did all the work ourselves on my restoration. Only thing we have planned to outsource is the powder coating of some trim and possibly recovering our seats since it’s just time consuming but we might do that ourselves.

      Does anyone here go to any LA meet ups? I’d be interested in meeting others who work on their mustang in the area.
      Yep. My experience a few years back with this first shop was sorta the catalyst that led me to teaching myself how to do everything on my own. The old adage of "if you want it done right" and all.

      I'm in the Valley but not part of any Mustang clubs. I do try to hit the Bob's Big Boy in Northridge or the Cupids Hot Dogs shows when I can.
       
    1. · Premium Member
      Joined
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      15,653 Posts
      When swapping from drum brakes to discs the end of the steel line where it attaches to the chassis must often be relocated towards the front of the car so you need a longer steel tube. The tubing is easily flared and bent using an inexpensive double flaring tool and tubing bender from Harbor Freight.
      If you're not comfortable flaring and bending the tubing you can buy an inverted flare connector and a short piece of pre-flared brake line at the auto parts store.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html

      https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html
       
    2. · Super Moderator
      Joined
      ·
      12,045 Posts
      When swapping from drum brakes to discs the end of the steel line where it attaches to the chassis must often be relocated towards the front of the car so you need a longer steel tube. The tubing is easily flared and bent using an inexpensive double flaring tool and tubing bender from Harbor Freight.
      If you're not comfortable flaring and bending the tubing you can buy an inverted flare connector and a short piece of pre-flared brake line at the auto parts store.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html

      https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

      You're like a walking, breathing, living, posting Chiltons manual,....seriously.

      You've always got good info.:wink:
       
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