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    1. · Registered
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      I'd go with the Eastwood. It gets rave reviews, will handle anything on your car, utilizes 110 current so you can use it almost anywhere, and has infinitely adjustable controls for heat and wire speed. I wish I had bought this one instead of the Hobart I bought a couple of years ago. It's just a little bit better than the Hobart since it has the infinite heat adjustment and a bunch cheaper.
       
    1. · Registered
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      Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
      Today's accomplishments and wallet work out: ( :thumbsdown: )

      Got a tour of Mustangs Plus while I was there, all the staff was extremely helpful and polite. There was a wide range of cars they had in their shop, they also conveniently had a couple 1970 mustang convertibles that were already blown apart so I could see how all the panels fit together.

      There was also a GORGEOUS corvette, really couldn't stop looking at the thing. The paint was just so perfect.


      Anyways, I ended up picking up the trunk floor pans, toeboards, torque boxes and I had them order a full floor for a '69-'70 mustang. It's going to be drop shipped from dynacorn directly and will hopefully be here by Friday.


      It's $150 to have the full floor shipped from the dynacorn facility in Camarillo. (Ouch)


      Anyways, got home and drilled out the spot welds for the torque box so I could split it. I have no idea why they come as one piece, there is no way that it would ever fit that way. This is where the air compressor and air chisel come in handy after you drill the welds!

      It's a scott drake brand torque box, they were a little pricey and still need a bit of massaging to get them to fit.

      Definitely not correct for '69 either, the flange that goes vertical on the frame rail is bent outward instead of inward. Not correct if I cared about concours! I'll have to see if I'm even going to keep the lip, seeing is that it gets welded at the corner anyways. I'll get some more detailed pictures of this issue later.

      Other than that, the panel seems to be stamped well and is made of good quality steel, it's very heavy and the metal is a thick gauge.


      Just rough fitting the torque box for fun so I feel like I'm actually fixing something rather than taking things apart and breaking them :)


      The toe boards seem to be made of a nice gauge of steel as well, however from what I'm told they need to be royally butchered to fit later year cars, let alone a convertible.


      Oh and I thought it was funny that half my car is literally in shopping carts and coming out of a catalog... :skullnbones: I took a peek at another floor pan they had in stock, I can see why it's so expensive to ship! Also put my mind at ease, it seems fairly easy to move around and manipulate to get the edge under the inner rocker.

      Tomorrow I'm going to prep the rest of the torque box area and paint everything with some kind of rust proofing. Anyone have any suggestions? I keep hearing about ospho but I can't seem to find where to buy it. I might just go with POR15 since that's what I've always used. I'd like to neutralize the rust before doing this, though.


      I also found out that the welder I borrowed from my friend needs $300+ worth of stuff to be able to run the gas. Looks like I'm searching craigslist for a mig welder. (Anyone local have one? I'll provide beer!:pirate: )


      I might end up buying this welder, says all I need is a tank to hook it up for gas! Reviews seem good as well.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/170-amp-migflux-wire-welder-22-volts-110-amps-68885.html

      It's on sale, can't argue with that price!!


      I'm definitely gaining a lot more confidence as I do this build, hopefully everything goes as planned!!
       

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