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    1. · Registered
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      46,181 Posts
      My $0.02...

      If you're going to order stuff from Summit....

      Pistons - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb116-030
      Rod Bolts - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-6002/overview/make/ford
      Rod Bearings - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb634p10/overview/make/ford
      Main Bearings - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms590p10/overview/make/ford
      Cam Bearings - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-sh510s/overview/make/ford
      Cam & Lifter Kit - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl210031-12/overview/make/ford
      Rockers - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-rpm1431-16/overview/make/ford
      Exhaust Valves - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-10775-8/overview/make/ford
      Intake Valves - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-10778-8/overview/make/ford
      Rocker Arm Studs - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4504-16/overview/make/ford
      Timing Set - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-c-3054x/overview/make/ford
      Oil Pump - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m68/overview/make/ford
      Oil Pump Driveshaft - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-7904/overview/make/ford
      Pump Pick Up - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-68-s/overview/make/ford
      Intake Manifold - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8020/overview/make/ford
      Headers - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jba-1650sjs/overview/make/ford
      Carb - Manual Trans - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-4777s
      Carb - Auto Trans - Holley Performance Products 650 CFM Four Barrel Street Carburetor 0-80783C

      Note that I did not suggest valve springs, retainers, seats, pushrods, etc., to leave these decisions up to your and your machinist. I DID choose GT40-sized valves of 1.84"/1.54", and recommend a DIY port and port match job, making sure the exhaust port in the head is approximately 1/32" smaller than the manifold/header port. You'll want to check P/V clearance as well and pay attention to the cam manufacturers indexing recommendation.

      The pistons selected with a 54.5cc chamber, a .040 compressed gasket thickness and a .016 below deck piston top yield approximately a 10.4:1 CR.

      Just my suggestions and I'm sure others will have ones that are equally good or better.
       
    2. · Registered
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      121 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #21 ·
      My $0.02...

      If you're going to order stuff from Summit....

      Pistons - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb116-030
      Rod Bolts - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-6002/overview/make/ford
      Rod Bearings - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb634p10/overview/make/ford
      Main Bearings - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms590p10/overview/make/ford
      Cam Bearings - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-sh510s/overview/make/ford
      Cam & Lifter Kit - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl210031-12/overview/make/ford
      Rockers - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-rpm1431-16/overview/make/ford
      Exhaust Valves - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-10775-8/overview/make/ford
      Intake Valves - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-10778-8/overview/make/ford
      Rocker Arm Studs - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4504-16/overview/make/ford
      Timing Set - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-c-3054x/overview/make/ford
      Oil Pump - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m68/overview/make/ford
      Oil Pump Driveshaft - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-7904/overview/make/ford
      Pump Pick Up - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-68-s/overview/make/ford
      Intake Manifold - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8020/overview/make/ford
      Headers - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jba-1650sjs/overview/make/ford
      Carb - Manual Trans - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-4777s
      Carb - Auto Trans - Holley Performance Products 650 CFM Four Barrel Street Carburetor*0-80783C

      Note that I did not suggest valve springs, retainers, seats, pushrods, etc., to leave these decisions up to your and your machinist. I DID choose GT40-sized valves of 1.84"/1.54", and recommend a DIY port and port match job, making sure the exhaust port in the head is approximately 1/32" smaller than the manifold/header port. You'll want to check P/V clearance as well and pay attention to the cam manufacturers indexing recommendation.

      The pistons selected with a 54.5cc chamber, a .040 compressed gasket thickness and a .016 below deck piston top yield approximately a 10.4:1 CR.

      Just my suggestions and I'm sure others will have ones that are equally good or better.
      Thanks for the list and effort to create that list.
      :)
       
    1. · Registered
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      3,083 Posts
      Oil pump Drive shaft > ARP # 154-7904
      Standard Volume Oil pump > Melling #M68
      I'll second the vote for the ARP shaft. I've used a lot of them and never had an issue.
      +1

      I'm running the heavy duty ARP shaft. It's super thick!

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-7904/overview/make/ford
      add one more vote for the suggested combination.
       
    1. · Registered
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      4,806 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
      You sure it was on there to begin with? Either way, better safe than sorry.

      I recommend an ARP oil pump drive shaft since you're going to have it all apart.
      Yes, I'm 100% sure. I installed a new oil pump last year, plus I could "feel" it trying to hold the shaft in the motor. I tried to get a pair of needle nose vice grips on it to stop it from coming out all the way.

      I found the ARP shaft on summit, what's so special about it? It looks like it has the same style push on clip my oil pump shaft has? Is it fixed on there? Maybe I should put a little tack weld on it?

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-7904/overview/year/1965/make/ford/model/mustang
      I've dropped one in my 94 cobra. Left it there for about 40,xxx miles until I pulled the motor for rebuild lol.
      It would be my luck it sucks it up on the middle of the Hot Rod Power tour 1,200 miles from home.

      I had never heard of this until it SORT of happened to me a few months ago, now it seems like a number of guys are having this problem.

      My clip slipped, but I managed to get the pump drive back in place. The next distributor removal will likely involve a pan drop.
      I've had the distributor out of this car on two other occasions and it never remotely stuck. Both times were after the oil pump and shaft change, so it's the same oil pump & shaft. Frustrating...
       
    1. · Registered
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      12,256 Posts
      While it's out, I would pull the cover on the pump, inspect the gears & housing, and check the clearances. If it's all good, put it back together and run it.

      I would, however, swap the shaft out for a ARP unit.

       
    1. · Premium Member
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      1,549 Posts
      Standard volume is more than adequate. https://www.amazon.com/Melling-M68-Replacement-Oil-Pump/dp/B000C4PO0U


      An ARP oil pump driveshaft is cheap insurance https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-7904
       
    2. · Registered
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      12,256 Posts
      I’m getting a late model 302 roller long block built to mostly stock specs for a street cruiser. Engine is going in a 1966 mustang with a 289 currently. I just have a few questions:

      1. I want to go with a front sump oil pan. Will any 289 compatible one work?
      2. Should I go ahead and upgrade to a high volume oil pump for street use?
      3. Will any 289 oil pick up tube work? Or do I need a different one for the high volume.
      4. If I go high volume, will I need to upgrade the driveshaft for pump?

      1 - yes
      2 - no, not on a stock-ish spec rebuild, HV pumps are for loose bearing clearances
      3 - it must match the pan, pump style makes no difference
      4 - use the ARP 154-7904 chromoly shaft.


      some other thoughts -

      you, or your engine builder needs to block the dipstick hole in the driver's side of the late model block.

      The entire front dress, timing cover forward, minus the balancer, can be transferred from your existing 289 - including the oil pan.

      Those blueprinted pumps are an absolute waste of money on an engine like this. The standard volume Melling M-68 is more than adequate.

      Most rebuilds and mild performance builds don't need anything more than the Boss 302 style pan. The baffle over the sump helps keep the oil around the pickup. The Drake B302 pan has a lot of reports of failed or leaking spot welds. I'd recommend the Canton pan and pickup over that.

       
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    1. · Registered
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      618 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #44 ·
      @Woodchuck
      I dropped everything off at the machine shop today. Getting started by hot tank everything, checking for cracks and take measurements. Assuming the cylinders can be cleaned up at 0.030" over and the crank at 0.010/0.010 under we will continue. Estimated cost for labor is around $2500 assembled. They don't port or port match :( This includes hardened valve seats, balancing the rotating assembly and resurfacing the flywheel. I will most likely assemble the engine myself, I mean why let them have all the fun... Also I have some friends who want the learning experience.

      In the mean time I've put together a parts list, I can already feel the wallet shrinking.... This will all be ordered once the measurements have been finallized.
      Pistons - SILV-O-LITE 3101HC
      Piston Rings - Hastings 2M139
      Cam Bearings - Sealed Power 1204M or Clevite SH-510S Any prefrence?
      Cam - Howards 217081-13
      Rod Bolts - ARP 154-6002
      Rod Bearings - Clevite CB-634P-10
      Main Bearings - Clevite MS-590P-10
      Rear Main Seal - SCE13604
      Freeze Plugs - Melling MPE-108BR
      Oil Pump - Melling M-68
      Oil Pump Driveshaft - ARP 154-7904
      Head Gaskets - Cometic MLS C5511-027

      This leaves valves (if needed), valve springs, retainers, keepers, valve stem seals, and screw in studs up to the machine shop. I could order these but I need more information first. I will be reusing the push rods and rocker arms unless thats discoraged. In the past I never upgraded anything just rebuilt stock.

      Did I forget anything? Any suggestions?

      Thanks!
       
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