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Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Sets

Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Sets

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$40 USD on Summit Racing Equipment
Timing Chain and Gear Set, Street True Roller, Double Roller, Iron/Steel Sprockets, Ford, Small Block, Works with 2-Piece Fuel Pump Eccentric, Set

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1 - 6 of 6 Posts
  1. Kelly_H

    Why hardened valve seats are a good thing to have/what's going on with Jane's engine

    2 3
    57
    7K
     by tom991
    1. tom991

      · Registered
      64 1/2 D Code Coupe,
      Joined
      ·
      3,589 Posts
      #58 ·
      Kelly_H said:
      also requires water pump and timing cover swapped over to the later style, or you can't run the double roller timing chain.

      #2 is the cylinder that was sleeved.
      Click to expand...
      Kelly, In 2010 when I reassembled my engine I bought a dual roller timing chain set from Summit that fit under my EOM timing cover on my 5 Bolt block. I ordered it as a Summit branded part. What arrived in the box was a Cloyes branded timing set. I never had any clearance issues with the timing cover. It was about $40 back then. Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Sets 9-1138 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing or Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Sets 9-1135 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
       
  2. TheShanMan

    Replacing timing chain and gears

    2 3
    50
    7K
     by BillB
    1. TheShanMan

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      109 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #12 ·
      Cloyes sounds fine to me. I noticed that the edelbrock says it might push out the balancer 1/8". I certainly don't like the idea of having to deal with realigning all the pulleys. The cloyes doesn't say anything about that so I guess that means it won't? I'm looking at the 9-1138 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1138/overview/make/ford). Does this look like the right one?

      Huskinhano said:
      Buy a new water pump.
      Click to expand...
      Is this a "while you're at it, you might consider replacing the water pump" kind of suggestion or are you saying using my existing pump will be problematic for some reason? I'm assuming the former, though I did replace my pump a number of years back so I certainly hope it won't be failing anytime soon.

      LeeFred said:
      Also, measure the thickness of the hub area on your upper timing gear. Some are thicker/thinner that others, and it can lead to rubbing against the inside of the timing cover by the fuel pump eccentric. All those aluminum shavings circulating through your engine is NOT a good thing.
      Click to expand...
      Being a daily driver I haven't been planning to start disassembly until I get parts so I hope I won't have a problem with the cloyes. Sounds like I shouldn't but I'll watch for that.

      FrankieThe69Kid said:
      I'll give a "thumbs up" to Mustangs Unlimited on things like this. I did a C4 to T5 swap. When ordering the cable clutch, I asked the rep, "E-mail a list of everything I'll need". Holy schiznit... pedal bushings, pads, pad trim, clips, washers, nuts, you name it... stuff I never would have thought of and would have had to wait days if, in the middle of assembly thought, "oh, I need one of those".
      I'm sure many other suppliers could provide the same for your project. Put the question out to a few suppliers, compile the list, and buy everything :) Ain't classic Mustangs a fun hobby?!
      Click to expand...
      Great idea, but it doesn't look like the mustang shops carry cloyes for some reason. But it seems like this should be a lot more straightforward than a tranny swap in terms of parts needed.

      Appreciate the advice everyone! I'm so excited to get this done!
       
      Save Share
  3. FrankieThe69Kid

    Timing gears, eccentric, and "the pin".

    2
    39
    3K
     by FrankieThe69Kid
  4. L

    Fuel pump cam is rubbing the inside of the timing cover.

    7
    494
     by Logan
    1. LeeFred

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      8,542 Posts
      #3 ·
      There are two types of fuel pump eccentrics that are on the timing gear. One piece and two piece. You have to make sure that if you are using a two piece eccentric, then the timing gear has to be two piece compatible. Same with the one piece. When they get mixed up, then things happen, like rubbing on the timing cover.

      In this example listing on Summit, you'll see in the description where it says "Works with 2-Piece Fuel Pump Eccentric":

       
  5. C

    Help me build a low buck 302 (explorer 5.0)

    2
    29
    2K
     by Russstang
    1. Scarlet-302

      · Registered
      In my stable: 1969 Mustang notchback, 1970 mustang notchback, 1970 sports roof.
      Joined
      ·
      325 Posts
      #12 ·
      sheza65 said:
      In another car I used a TFS1 cam in the Explorer 5.0L GT-40P. It lost more bottom end than I expected. I kind of wished I kept the P cam in that car.
      Click to expand...
      My observation as well. In my next build I'm leaving in the explorer cam and installing the TFS spring upgrade for gt40P head and just slapping some stock 302 log manifolds on there. My last explorer build I went 30 over with forged DSS pistons, forged rods, AFR 165 renegade cnc ported heads, Summit longtube headers, tfs stage 1 cam, Comp utlra pro magnum xd roller rockers, wieand street warrior intake, duraspark ignition, Magnaflow 2.5" mandrel bend exhaust, t5 5-speed, yada yada yada. I spent like 7k on a 302... Even though I started autocrossing it this year, and it runs good, I feel like it wasn't worth the money. I mostly just daily drive it and I felt better about the "bang for the buck" I got when it was a stock explorer motor. It's probably because I'm young I guess, but I hate the sewing machine sound of the roller rockers, I hate hearing the exhaust pulses through the headers, I feel bad about spending 6k to get 100 more hp to the wheels. Other than popping the hood and marveling at how beautiful it looks, I don't feel like I really got 6k more enjoyment out of it over the explorer motor for how I mostly use the car.

      With a $2500 budget i'd do the following

      1. Upgrade the GT40P valve springs $172 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500100
      2. Weiand street warrior intake $205 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8124wnd/make/ford
      3. Heater hose fitting for intake $27 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-221104
      4. Summit 600 carb $395 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs
      5. Cloyes roller timing set for 2 piece eccentric $40 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1138/make/ford
      6. Comp cams finishing kit ( comes with 2 piece fuel eccentric and cam dowels) $31 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-235/make/ford
      7. Painless Duraspark II harness for factory duraspark II electronic ignition syste $85 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812
      8. 1985 mustang Duraspark Distributor with steel gear compatible with steel cam in explorer motor $69 More Information for CARDONE 842831
      9. 1985 Mustang Duraspark II ignition coil $19 More Information for NGK 48773
      10. 1985 Mustang Motorcraft duraspark ignition module box $45 More Information for MOTORCRAFT DY893
      11. MSD street fire plug wire set ( Gt40P has weird plug angle so might need to find what style boots you need to clear the exhaust you decide to use) $50 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5541/make/ford
      12. Summit plug wire crimper ( the msd wires require you to cut to length and crimp ends on. perfect for making sure they route nicely) $42 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-56206
      13. Milodon Oil Pan with baffle ( basically a stock pan but it does have a simple baffle in it. you could buy a replacement stock pan to save money here. I run this one) $180 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30720/make/ford
      14. Replacement oil pickup tube for front sump pan $17 More Information for MELLING 68S
      15. Oil pan stud kit ( not necessary but makes oil pan work a breeze) $37 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-81310/make/ford
      16. 1 piece oil pan gasket ( reusable and a great gasket) $35 More Information for FEL-PRO OS13260T
      17. Felpro intake manifold gasket set $10 More Information for FEL-PRO MS901031
      18. FEL-PRO 9333PT1 head gaskets ( if you pull the heads. your motor is low mileage so you probably don't need to. these gaskets are the ones lots of the 5.0 guys run with boost and such, better than the cheapest felpro option) $40 More Information for FEL-PRO 9333PT1
      19. Head bolts becuase explorer uses torque to yield bolts ( can only use once). You could reuse your 289 head bolts. ARPs $55 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-3601/make/ford
      20. Felpro exhaust gaskets ( I use these stock gaskets even with headers. It seems the header gaskets always break down on me) $10 More Information for FEL-PRO MS90000
      21. Harmonic Balancer for 3 bolt pulley ( you can use your 289 pulley setup, just need a 50oz balancer that accepts 3 bolts) $115 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-80007/make/ford
      22. Water pump $36 More Information for GATES 43049
      23. Headers (i'd use stock manifolds for simplicity but your call here. Headers to fit GT40p are going to be hard to find and expensive) $400?
      24. Exhaust work to match header choice $400?
      25. z-bar adapter ( I used this one and had to modify it to fit with my summit long tube headers. Depending on what headers you run with your gt40P heads, you will probably need to cut and weld it too) $55 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz7a531lm
      26. 1995 Mustang stock 50oz flywheel $57 LUK LFW112 More Information for LUK LFW112
      27. 1995 Mustang stock clutch kit ( if your 4speed is 10 spline, this should work, but may need the throwout bearing for your 4speed. In my 69 with explorer motor I run this flywheel and clutch kit and use the 69 throwout bearing. I'm running a t5 though, but using the 69 throwout and 69 clutch fork with z-bar.) $95 More Information for LUK 07042
      28. 1965 mustang clutch throwout bearing NATIONAL 614038 $35 More Information for NATIONAL 614038
      That list is at $2700 and there's still more things you need and haven't even touched a performance cam yet (atleast another $300). If your budget is $2500 and its firm, you can not touch the heads and then you don't need head gaskets or bolts -$100. For ignition whatever you run needs to have a steel gear, your stock distributor will not work with the steel roller cam. The duraspark setup is $218. A pertronix with steel gear is $250. You can stick to points and swap out the distributor gear for probably $50 as the most economical option.

      I'm a spreadsheet junkie and make spreadsheets for all my builds and it always amazes me how quickly costs add up and put you over budget. I always make my list starting with what I'd like to have, and then start finding compromises to dial back the cost. Good luck!
       
    2. H

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      22,683 Posts
      #13 ·
      Scarlet-302 said:
      My observation as well. In my next build I'm leaving in the explorer cam and installing the TFS spring upgrade for gt40P head and just slapping some stock 302 log manifolds on there. My last explorer build I went 30 over with forged DSS pistons, forged rods, AFR 165 renegade cnc ported heads, Summit longtube headers, tfs stage 1 cam, Comp utlra pro magnum xd roller rockers, wieand street warrior intake, duraspark ignition, Magnaflow 2.5" mandrel bend exhaust, t5 5-speed, yada yada yada. I spent like 7k on a 302... Even though I started autocrossing it this year, and it runs good, I feel like it wasn't worth the money. I mostly just daily drive it and I felt better about the "bang for the buck" I got when it was a stock explorer motor. It's probably because I'm young I guess, but I hate the sewing machine sound of the roller rockers, I hate hearing the exhaust pulses through the headers, I feel bad about spending 6k to get 100 more hp to the wheels. Other than popping the hood and marveling at how beautiful it looks, I don't feel like I really got 6k more enjoyment out of it over the explorer motor for how I mostly use the car.

      With a $2500 budget i'd do the following

      1. Upgrade the GT40P valve springs $172 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500100
      2. Weiand street warrior intake $205 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8124wnd/make/ford
      3. Heater hose fitting for intake $27 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-221104
      4. Summit 600 carb $395 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs
      5. Cloyes roller timing set for 2 piece eccentric $40 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1138/make/ford
      6. Comp cams finishing kit ( comes with 2 piece fuel eccentric and cam dowels) $31 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-235/make/ford
      7. Painless Duraspark II harness for factory duraspark II electronic ignition syste $85 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812
      8. 1985 mustang Duraspark Distributor with steel gear compatible with steel cam in explorer motor $69 More Information for CARDONE 842831
      9. 1985 Mustang Duraspark II ignition coil $19 More Information for NGK 48773
      10. 1985 Mustang Motorcraft duraspark ignition module box $45 More Information for MOTORCRAFT DY893
      11. MSD street fire plug wire set ( Gt40P has weird plug angle so might need to find what style boots you need to clear the exhaust you decide to use) $50 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5541/make/ford
      12. Summit plug wire crimper ( the msd wires require you to cut to length and crimp ends on. perfect for making sure they route nicely) $42 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-56206
      13. Milodon Oil Pan with baffle ( basically a stock pan but it does have a simple baffle in it. you could buy a replacement stock pan to save money here. I run this one) $180 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30720/make/ford
      14. Replacement oil pickup tube for front sump pan $17 More Information for MELLING 68S
      15. Oil pan stud kit ( not necessary but makes oil pan work a breeze) $37 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-81310/make/ford
      16. 1 piece oil pan gasket ( reusable and a great gasket) $35 More Information for FEL-PRO OS13260T
      17. Felpro intake manifold gasket set $10 More Information for FEL-PRO MS901031
      18. FEL-PRO 9333PT1 head gaskets ( if you pull the heads. your motor is low mileage so you probably don't need to. these gaskets are the ones lots of the 5.0 guys run with boost and such, better than the cheapest felpro option) $40 More Information for FEL-PRO 9333PT1
      19. Head bolts becuase explorer uses torque to yield bolts ( can only use once). You could reuse your 289 head bolts. ARPs $55 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-3601/make/ford
      20. Felpro exhaust gaskets ( I use these stock gaskets even with headers. It seems the header gaskets always break down on me) $10 More Information for FEL-PRO MS90000
      21. Harmonic Balancer for 3 bolt pulley ( you can use your 289 pulley setup, just need a 50oz balancer that accepts 3 bolts) $115 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-80007/make/ford
      22. Water pump $36 More Information for GATES 43049
      23. Headers (i'd use stock manifolds for simplicity but your call here. Headers to fit GT40p are going to be hard to find and expensive) $400?
      24. Exhaust work to match header choice $400?
      25. z-bar adapter ( I used this one and had to modify it to fit with my summit long tube headers. Depending on what headers you run with your gt40P heads, you will probably need to cut and weld it too) $55 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz7a531lm
      26. 1995 Mustang stock 50oz flywheel $57 LUK LFW112 More Information for LUK LFW112
      27. 1995 Mustang stock clutch kit ( if your 4speed is 10 spline, this should work, but may need the throwout bearing for your 4speed. In my 69 with explorer motor I run this flywheel and clutch kit and use the 69 throwout bearing. I'm running a t5 though, but using the 69 throwout and 69 clutch fork with z-bar.) $95 More Information for LUK 07042
      28. 1965 mustang clutch throwout bearing NATIONAL 614038 $35 More Information for NATIONAL 614038
      That list is at $2700 and there's still more things you need and haven't even touched a performance cam yet (atleast another $300). If your budget is $2500 and its firm, you can not touch the heads and then you don't need head gaskets or bolts -$100. For ignition whatever you run needs to have a steel gear, your stock distributor will not work with the steel roller cam. The duraspark setup is $218. A pertronix with steel gear is $250. You can stick to points and swap out the distributor gear for probably $50 as the most economical option.

      I'm a spreadsheet junkie and make spreadsheets for all my builds and it always amazes me how quickly costs add up and put you over budget. I always make my list starting with what I'd like to have, and then start finding compromises to dial back the cost. Good luck!
      Click to expand...
      I paid $450 for mine after selling a set of P heads for $525. Then sold off what I didn’t want for $175. Swap meet USA made Stealth intake for $80. Yard shed unrebuilt 600 Edelbrock $125. Canton 7 qt pan. It was off a crate motor going into a Volvo wagon. Swapped the oil pan and I think $125 for the Canton with pick up and dipstick. Cloyes roller chain, don’t Remember how much. Originally a free E cam was going in but got wet and rusted at some point. I was thinking of just keeping the Explorer cam. Maybe if I was automatic but for $60 I stuck in a used 92 Mustang cam. Alex’s Parts .544” lift spring kit with shims and Viton seals $195. Professional Products balancer $90, PRW SFI billet flywheel $225. Free King Cobra clutch kit, PRW aluminum water pump. $80 85 Mustang distributor that I recurved for 16* mechanical and all in by 2500. Initial timing is 14*, don’t need more then 30*. Junkyard ignition module and connectors, I think $25.

      Another option on ignition is the 90’s grey thick film ignition module not the black and 12 volt E coil. This will work with the Duraspark distributor. The grey box controls dwell the black one doesn’t.

      On the Corral forum on the 5.0 section is a guy who put a GT40P, stock cam and T5 into a 90’s 5 series BWM that he auto crosses with. I believe he said at the strip he ran high 13’s with the stock GT40P. Good read on his build.
       
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