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Hi everyone, newer member here. I’m building a 1967 mustang coupe with a 427w- 575hp @ 6100 rpm/ 585tq @ 4500 rpm. Having a 4r70w trans build by Freddy brown with MVB and trans brake. Planning on running 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 stepped headers, 3” exhaust. 9” rear end with moser aluminum 3rd member 3.70 wavetrac. DSE Mini tub/ rear leaf suspension, planning on running 335/50-r15 tire. Global west drag coil over front suspension. Chromoly 6 or 8 pt cage hoping to weight 3000-3200. Any guesses? I’m hoping it will get into at least the higher the 10’s while still remaining streetable- if I’m missing anything please let me know.
 

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67 Mustang 351w
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1/4 mile calculator shows a 10.7
 
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Mid 11's until you get it totally sorted. Too many variables to be any more precise. No need for the giant steamrollers, lots of cars weighing far more have gone a lot faster on less. Join the leaf spring racer groups on FB, lots of good advice there.
 

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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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I’ll post some soon! Hopefully painting the engine bay this week then I can finally start putting the engine/ trans in
We like pics of projects too! Just sayin.
 

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Mid 11's until you get it totally sorted. Too many variables to be any more precise. No need for the giant steamrollers, lots of cars weighing far more have gone a lot faster on less. Join the leaf spring racer groups on FB, lots of good advice there.
I’ll definitely be checking out the leaf spring groups, thank you for the heads up! I’d definitely be happy with a mid 11 on a brand new set up, and if I can’t get that 10 I’ll just have to stuff a bigger cam in there as mine is pretty mild
 

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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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I might just have to do a photo dump when I get home then!! It started as a car I just wanted to swap a motor into then ended up doing a TON of metal work lol and now I’m building a streetable drag car
Ahh... The Rabbit Hole!
 

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1/4 mile calculator shows a 10.7
Not likely...he is running a 9" rear end....which will eat up 15% of that power...probably another 10% through the trans and driveshaft. Calculator says a best case scenario of 11.2 seconds with that factored in...if he has the traction and assuming a 3100lb weight on the finished car. More realistic is to say 11.5 or so....but my guess also means nothing. Its actually why I think aiming above 350HP is kinda futile...you start chasing diminishing returns and adding a lot of stress on the engine and make the car into an unstreetable race car at a certain point.

It would be more effective run through an 8.8" rear end with REM polished gears and an aluminum driveshaft instead...that would put him right at 11.0 with hopes of hitting a 10.9...but its more work to build an 8.8 to handle that type of power...would require a truss system and I would personally go with 9" bearing ends to get around all the c-clip eliminator goofiness....alternatively he could also add 30 more HP to the engine for the same effect...but that option just makes the engine more high strung and unstreetable than it already is.

P.S. To the OP...sorry for talking about you in 3rd person here, just trying to make the grammar sound correct for a reply to someone else. Is there a reason other than bragging rights you are trying to hit a 10 second 1/4 mile time? Is it a competition car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not likely...he is running a 9" rear end....which will eat up 15% of that power...probably another 10% through the trans and driveshaft. Calculator says a best case scenario of 11.2 seconds with that factored in...if he has the traction and assuming a 3100lb weight on the finished car. More realistic is to say 11.5 or so....but my guess also means nothing. Its actually why I think aiming above 350HP is kinda futile...you start chasing diminishing returns and adding a lot of stress on the engine and make the car into an unstreetable race car at a certain point.

It would be more effective run through an 8.8" rear end with REM polished gears and an aluminum driveshaft instead...that would put him right at 11.0 with hopes of hitting a 10.9...but its more work to build an 8.8 to handle that type of power...would require a truss system and I would personally go with 9" bearing ends to get around all the c-clip eliminator goofiness....alternatively he could also add 30 more HP to the engine for the same effect...but that option just makes the engine more high strung and unstreetable than it already is.

P.S. To the OP...sorry for talking about you in 3rd person here, just trying to make the grammar sound correct for a reply to someone else. Is there a reason other than bragging rights you are trying to hit a 10 second 1/4 mile time? Is it a competition car?
Lol no problem, it made it very easy to follow lol. I guess there's not really a reason for it to run 10's, it was just a goal of mine. I plan on racing it frequently but there isn't a track near me other than occasional drag races at an airport, and the cars there are all boosted or new corvettes, challengers etc. So I'm trying to keep up lol! but with an old school set up.

.. and my two buddies have a chevy and a dodge so I gotta stay out front lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ahh... The Rabbit Hole!
Here's the photo dump! Ill have to start another thread when she's finished up, going through the whole thing.


This is the car the day I purchased it, all stock.

Car Vehicle Tire Wheel Hood


Detroit Speed mini tub, suspension, and rear housing.
Tire Wheel Hood Automotive lighting Vehicle


Everything assembled, Moser third member, global west subframe connectors.. (Which I wish I had not purchased as they leave no room for the caltracs I bought!) just finished painting the bottom of the car.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Locomotive


This is how she sits with the DSE tub kit and suspension, plenty of room for more rubber. Currently in the process of welding a new cowl in. Just finished welding front frame, apron, and core support/ cross member.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood


Global west front suspension installed w/ Wilwood 6 piston brakes.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tire Motor vehicle Glove


The power house.. Dart block, AFR 220 heads, Vic Jr., Q750 crab, Custom cam .580" lift .232 @ .050
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior


Engine bay I just finished media blasting today. Ill be doping an epoxy primer for the first time tomorrow.. not much paint experience, I'm still young so wish me luck!
Gas Motor vehicle Automotive tire Composite material Metal
 

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Lol no problem, it made it very easy to follow lol. I guess there's not really a reason for it to run 10's, it was just a goal of mine. I plan on racing it frequently but there isn't a track near me other than occasional drag races at an airport, and the cars there are all boosted or new corvettes, challengers etc. So I'm trying to keep up lol! but with an old school set up.

.. and my two buddies have a chevy and a dodge so I gotta stay out front lol
Heh, its a tall order to keep up with cars 50 years newer. They have too many advantages....a new Challenger or Charger can make 700HP and be perfectly streetable, much tougher to do the same on an old pushrod engine with a carb. To make huge HP numbers and be streetable with something like a 351w you are better off running EFI and turbocharging it(just copy what works for new dodges...force more air down its throat), even if you did that though, you lack the AWD, the traction control, etc. I do a lot of modifications to my 66 because I enjoy it...but I am pretty sure I would still be out-handled and out-accelerated by any new Mustang GT off the showroom floor...maybe even the ecoboost 4 cylinder...but hey, at least I don't drive a plastic car, so I am good.

P.S. My first classic mustang was a '67 Coupe....and its still my favorite year and body style...the design was near perfect that year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Heh, its a tall order to keep up with cars 50 years newer. They have too many advantages....a new Challenger or Charger can make 700HP and be perfectly streetable, much tougher to do the same on an old pushrod engine with a carb. To make huge HP numbers and be streetable with something like a 351w you are better off running EFI and turbocharging it(just copy what works for new dodges...force more air down its throat), even if you did that though, you lack the AWD, the traction control, etc. I do a lot of modifications to my 66 because I enjoy it...but I am pretty sure I would still be out-handled and out-accelerated by any new Mustang GT off the showroom floor...maybe even the ecoboost 4 cylinder...but hey, at least I don't drive a plastic car, so I am good.

P.S. My first classic mustang was a '67 Coupe....and its still my favorite year and body style...the design was near perfect that year.
Yes I 100% agree, but if I can drive to the track, run in a straight line and keep up with my old school set up that I built. Mission accomplished! Lol, also you asked why I wanted to run a 10.. and if I can run a 10.9 I'm already faster than 90% of stock cars.;) Won't have the comfort with A/C or anything but it will have the cool factor.
 

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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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Here's the photo dump! Ill have to start another thread when she's finished up, going through the whole thing.


This is the car the day I purchased it, all stock.

View attachment 861825

Detroit Speed mini tub, suspension, and rear housing.
View attachment 861827

Everything assembled, Moser third member, global west subframe connectors.. (Which I wish I had not purchased as they leave no room for the caltracs I bought!) just finished painting the bottom of the car.
View attachment 861829

This is how she sits with the DSE tub kit and suspension, plenty of room for more rubber. Currently in the process of welding a new cowl in. Just finished welding front frame, apron, and core support/ cross member.
View attachment 861835

Global west front suspension installed w/ Wilwood 6 piston brakes.
View attachment 861837

The power house.. Dart block, AFR 220 heads, Vic Jr., Q750 crab, Custom cam .580" lift .232 @ .050
View attachment 861839

Engine bay I just finished media blasting today. Ill be doping an epoxy primer for the first time tomorrow.. not much paint experience, I'm still young so wish me luck!
View attachment 861842
Nice project!
 
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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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Heh, its a tall order to keep up with cars 50 years newer. They have too many advantages....a new Challenger or Charger can make 700HP and be perfectly streetable, much tougher to do the same on an old pushrod engine with a carb. To make huge HP numbers and be streetable with something like a 351w you are better off running EFI and turbocharging it(just copy what works for new dodges...force more air down its throat), even if you did that though, you lack the AWD, the traction control, etc. I do a lot of modifications to my 66 because I enjoy it...but I am pretty sure I would still be out-handled and out-accelerated by any new Mustang GT off the showroom floor...maybe even the ecoboost 4 cylinder...but hey, at least I don't drive a plastic car, so I am good.

P.S. My first classic mustang was a '67 Coupe....and its still my favorite year and body style...the design was near perfect that year.
Yea, anybody can go to the dealership and buy a fast Mustang but I see tons of folks walk by a 2021 GT to check out my 50 year old car!
 
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