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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 1-wire alternator (a Tuff Stuff Silver Bullet 100amp). It is a GM10si case with ford mounting. It was a pretty tight fit, seems that the positive post on the alternator it touching the block should I grind the post down or try to use the rubber boot from the old wiring?
Second question, with a 1-wire alternator I lose my STA connection for my electric choke, am I going to have to run a wire to the fuse box to get power?
Third question, do the headlights run off of the wiring that was hooked up to the original alternator? The single wire has the voltage regulator built in, will this cause anyother problem?
 

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Welcome to VMF!

I have the same setup. I used the rubber boot to cover the connection up and wrapped some heat shield tape over it. Obviously you do not want that touching the block when running.

Choke needs a 12v switched source. The ignition switch is a good place to connect to. Just make sure you bypass the pink resistor wire for this connection.

I don't recall any issues I had when disconnecting everything but someone else might chime in on your third question.
 

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You can easily move the location of the positive stud by rotating the case.

Remove the pulley, then remove the bolts that hold the 2 sections of the alternator case together. IMPORTANT - only rotate the front portion of the alternator. Rotate it until you get it in the position that wont hit the block and then reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You can easily move the location of the positive stud by rotating the case.

Remove the pulley, then remove the bolts that hold the 2 sections of the alternator case together. IMPORTANT - only rotate the front portion of the alternator. Rotate it until you get it in the position that wont hit the block and then reinstall.


So, I unbolted the case and it rotated with no problems. I didnt take the pulley off, the back half just spun around with out me having to touch it, is that going to cause a problem?
Now I just have to get the damn thing tight so it wont squeal.

I did notice the headlight harness is hooked up to the voltage regulator though....So,
 

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The problem with moving the back half instead if the front is that you chance screwing up the internal brushes. If that happens your alternator wont charge properly and you will need to get it fixed. It may be fine but if its not at least you know why.

I dont think your headlight harness should be hooked up to the voltage regulator. From what I can remember, power for the lights should be coming from the starter solenoid relay battery terminal. Just do google search for headlight wiring diagram for your year car and you should be able to find what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Aww, great, hope I didnt mess it up. I dont know of anywhere out here in the hills that does alternator repair.
Thanks for all the info!!
 
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