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I saw a 140 amp truck alternator in "Summits'" parts catalog and I was wonering if using this on my 73 Mustang convertable would provide more juice to operate the power top, power windows and other accesories or would this damage the electrical system ?

Thanks, Chet
 

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What about the Mr. Amp or the Power master ones you see in the mustang mags? I always wondered if the stock harness would handle the 130 amps. A new one might, but half the cars mighthave worn out old wires. hmmm.... I have a 45 amp one I think....still get a little headlight blink at idle.

Kory

Mustang Parts makes a great addiction.
 
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Keep in mind guys - this is why your charging system has a regulator. Your alternator is only putting out what your electrical system is demanding of it. Even if you have a 140 amp Alt., if your electrical system is only pulling 50 amps on average, you won't be getting any kind of advantage over say a stock 65 amp.


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[color:red]Last Updated: 4/13/2001</font color=red>
 

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The alternator charges the battery as well as feeds power to what needs continious power. Things like tops and power windows are temporary power draws, much like the starter. An electronic radiator cooling fan is an example of a fairly heavy continious power draw. So unless you have kids and they are continously putting the elecectric windows up and down you really don't need a huge alternator.

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If you go to E-bay and look up this user, CSKING, his e-mail is [email protected] , you will find that his shop rebuilds alt. to 105 amps. I JUST got one in this week, and I got it for $49 plus shipping. click HERE to go directly to his seller list.



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The output of the alternator is like the 200amp service in your house. 200 amps is what can be supplied, not what's being used. A 75 watt bulb uses .625 amps at 120 volts to work. remember VOLTS X AMPS =WATTS. 120 X .625 = 75watts. That bulb is on a 15 amp circuit. If the wire shorts out it will draw as many amps as the circuit will give it. The circuit breaker cuts it off at 15 amps. If an item in your car, say a bulb, needs 1 amp to run, thats what it will draw from the electrical system. Again AMPS X VOLTS = WATTS, 1 X 12 = 12 watts. The bulb will draw 1 amp, through wire and the fuse box. If there is a short in the wire to the bulb, the wire will draw 1,2,3,4 amps untill it causes the fuse that is protecting the circuit to blow. the fuse is there to protect the wire and of course the car. The wire size is based on the load that is on that circuit, and the fuse is rated for that size wire. To much amperage over a particular size wire and you produce heat, which could lead to a fire. The fuse will blow at the rating that is on it. Here's the problem, the alternator has a output that may exceed the wire that is going to the fuse box. This could cause damage to the wire, it could melt or cause a fire.
If you want, or need, a large output alternator, I would recommend putting a larger wire to the fuse box, or a inline fuse to protect your car from to much amperage from the alternator.
Also consider using direct wiring to a connection block, with fuses, to the large electrical load items. What your doing is creating a second electrical system for your car, the power comes from the alternator. Part of it goes to the cars electrical system and part of it goes to the 3,000,000 watt stereo system that you installed in your vintage mustang that will disintegrate any welds that you so carefully did.

My son got me into this and I'm having a ball
65 fastback, 289, 3 speed, Holly 1850, Edelbrock intake. SSB front disks in a box, Canadian Mustang "real big kit" suspension in alot of boxes,
Right now lots of boxes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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