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That sounds like a great package. The lighter heads, w pump, intake, headers etc. removes enough weight that it is close to a Ford SB in actual poundage. That will significantly reduce front end plow, lighten the steering noticeably. Have you added the roller idler arm? Sounds like a fun car indeed.
Thanks, I'm certainly looking forward to getting it done. Unfortunately, I'm still working on the body and the engine is still at the builder. I do have a brand new roller idler arm that came from Opentracker, via Street or Track. I've heard the roller really helps the manual steering.

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According to this link, the 67 16:1 steering boxes yielded a 3-3/4 turns lock to lock. Is that inaccurate?
http://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJonesSteeringBoxRatios.html

Also, my 67 fastback happens to be one of those rare Competition Handling Package GT's, with a 390 (only 93 were built as a fastback, 390, with 4 speed - according to my deluxe marti report) The car had power steering on it when my parents bought it back in '94. The marti report doesn't list the power steering as an option, so I assume it was installed by a PO. I'm actually taking it back to manual steering. It has the original 16:1 box and I just received it back from Roger Rode, whom rebuilt it last month. Anyways, I'm very curious what the steering is going to be like since I've actually never driven the car. The front end will be lighter since I'll not be re-installing the AC for a while, not re-installing the PS, and have aluminum intake, heads, and water pump on the engine. Also will have FPA headers. Hopefully that makes it all a bit more nimble and easier to steer with manual steering! As a side note, I'm trying to keep as much of the Compitition Handling Package as I can, by keeping the shock towers and original type front suspension, original 15/16" sway bar, and the rear shelby leaf springs, quick ratio manual steering, and 3.25 limited slip rear. I have the original front springs but decided to go coilover so I could better set ride height.
16:1 is 4 turns lock to lock. I will tell you that occasionally we would run into a quick box where the input would only turn 3.75 times from one extreme to the other.
I only saw this on short shaft boxes personally. It's generally because the physically characteristics of the box internally stopped things moving at 3.75 turns.
The output at the pitman arm was always less as well (it didn't move as far as it "normally" does).

I don't know about nimble. Don't kid yourself. Anything with a 390 and manual steering is going to be an armstrong workout. I think you'll still be 50 pounds over a 289.
The FE's full skirt block is really heavy..... let alone other internal items.
An aluminum 390 block (125#) would get you below the 289's weight. Not a cheap date though.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Do I hate my 19:1 manual steering box? No. But for the majority of the driving in my daily driven 69, it is more enjoyable than the 16:1 Flaming River box I removed. I believe manual vs power steering, and ratios are subjective like which color should I paint my car. So ymmv.

I take at least one long 2,500 to 5,000 mile trip a year, and several 500 mile trips. While at speed, the 16:1 is obviously more enjoyable. But the ease of daily local driving is worth it to ME.

I logged around 10k miles on the FR box without issue. After reading bad reviews on the FR box, wanting real Henry metal, and a bit easier steering, I talked it over with Chock and put in a rebuilt 19:1 manual box from him. I may have solved a problem I didn't have, but I don't dread parking lots any longer, and freeway driving is not unacceptable with the looser ratio.
 

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16:1 is 4 turns lock to lock. I will tell you that occasionally we would run into a quick box where the input would only turn 3.75 times from one extreme to the other.
I only saw this on short shaft boxes personally. It's generally because the physically characteristics of the box internally stopped things moving at 3.75 turns.
The output at the pitman arm was always less as well (it didn't move as far as it "normally" does).
Thanks for the additional info!

I don't know about nimble. Don't kid yourself. Anything with a 390 and manual steering is going to be an armstrong workout. I think you'll still be 50 pounds over a 289.
The FE's full skirt block is really heavy..... let alone other internal items.
An aluminum 390 block (125#) would get you below the 289's weight. Not a cheap date though.
That's why I said "hopefully ... a bit more nimble" ;) I am under no illusion that it's going to be easy in parking lots. Everything I've read says it's manageable though.
 

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Sad news.
Sent my tired 16:1 box that was originally on my 66 car to Chocostang to get it rebuilt. He says it's beyond rebuild and would need an extensive amount of work. He doesn't have another 16:1 box around, but he does have Ford OEM 5 turn 19:1 boxes that he could send me rebuilt along with my old old/tired 16:1 box.

Before I pull the trigger, am I going to hate that ratio? I do have roller idler arm, and 215/45R17 front tires. It's going to be a driver with a 331 and 4r70w. Not doing any track racing, mostly cruising to and from work.
I feel bummed, should I?
I put the Flaming River box in mine. Would not recommend the 19-1 box. Way to slow for manual steering.
 

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I don't know about exactly "unacceptable" on the highway, Dad and I put well over 200 000 miles on ours with the 19-1 box, which included a good amount of highway driving. What contributed more to an "unacceptable" condition was wear in other components like tie rods, misalignment, worn steering box (slop in the center), uneven tire wear (or even type of tire, for that matter), wrongly inflated tires, worn shocks, etc. When all was in good working order, it was quite fine on the highway.
 

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If you are going the whole rebuild road, here is the article on changing out the Spear-o-Matic column of death ? long shaft 1965 - 1967 early with the short shaft collapsible column from a 1968.


The SMB-K power steering box is very plentiful and can be used as a replacement for the 4 turn HCC-AW power steering box or as a manual steering box to replace the HCC-AX, 4 turn. You will need to run the 1968 PS piteman on both manual and power, as the 1 1/8" sector shaft on the SMB-K does not fit the 1" manual or power pitman arm.

I just had a person do this conversion with a Chock box.
 

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I'm thinking you might have misunderstood what I was saying. I like the 19:1 steering, and said it was NOT unacceptable, meaning it's acceptable.

If you didn't misunderstand my post, never mind :)




I don't know about exactly "unacceptable"
Do I hate my 19:1 manual steering box? No.

and freeway driving is not unacceptable with the looser ratio.
 

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Ah, clarification noted. Sometimes, I tend to scan posts rather than fully read and digest them. Lesson there, I guess.
Thanks, all's good(y)
 

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I have a 19:1 box for manual steering but a PO put p/s in and left the manual box. I am doing quite a bit of restoration (restomod) so should I swap out the 19:1 for a p/s 16:1, leave it or look at the Flaming River box??
 

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I have a 19:1 box for manual steering but a PO put p/s in and left the manual box. I am doing quite a bit of restoration (restomod) so should I swap out the 19:1 for a p/s 16:1, leave it or look at the Flaming River box??
I was in the same boat. I just replaced my 19:1 with a Chock rebuilt 16:1 while also having him rebuild the power steering and I am very happy. I had way too much steering wheel travel previously. It works perfect now, like the day it was built.
 

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I was in the same boat. I just replaced my 19:1 with a Chock rebuilt 16:1 while also having him rebuild the power steering and I am very happy. I had way too much steering wheel travel previously. It works perfect now, like the day it was built.
When you say "Chock rebuilt" what does that mean? Is that Flaming River??
 

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I have a 19:1 box for manual steering but a PO put p/s in and left the manual box. I am doing quite a bit of restoration (restomod) so should I swap out the 19:1 for a p/s 16:1, leave it or look at the Flaming River box??
I just the other day swapped my 19:1 Chocko box for a 16:1 Chocko manual box. No chance I'd use another 19:1 box. For the price, quality and service, Chocko is the only way to go.
 

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I have a 19:1 box for manual steering but a PO put p/s in and left the manual box. I am doing quite a bit of restoration (restomod) so should I swap out the 19:1 for a p/s 16:1, leave it or look at the Flaming River box??
A 19:1 aka slow:1 box with power steering must have about no "feel" at all. I drove my 66 for a while with just the slow:1 box even did a few autox events with it, it was pretty bad I still have the 19:1 but now use it with a Shelby quick steer kit ,made a big difference
 
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