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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After researching this conversion for about a few months I realized there wasn't a straight up solid how to with pics available for folks wanting to do this to a 1965/6 Mustang. I wanted to use off the shelf parts to get it done. The good news is that it was a lot easier than I expected and I did it alone in my garage. This is a step by step write up and I'll list all part numbers at the end.

First step was getting it up in the air. I used a 2001 4r70w from a v6 Mustang. Only had 51k on the clock and it had the teeth on the output shaft needed to turn the speedometer gear. Also you can see in the pic that the tail housing is from an 89 mustang AOD. This allows me to used the stronger smaller diameter T-5 driveshaft yoke. It's just a straight up simple bolt on swap for tail housings.



With the car in the air I removed and discarded the old tri-y headers as they would not fit the new 4r70w. Also I pulled the starter. The stock 1965 manual transmission starter was completely reusable for this swap.



Next I drained the T-5 and got it ready to drop.



With the T-5 out of the way I pulled the bell housing, clutch, flywheel, starter index plate, pilot bearing from the crank, and in my application, the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.



With all the T-5 stuff out of the way, I moved on to the shifter. I used a stock 2001 mustang v6 shifter and it fit perfectly with only some minor trimming to the cable bracket on the shifter.



In this pic you can see that I slightly trimmed the cable bracket for clearance. If you are using this shifter, you will know what to trim with a basic test fit in your own car.



Here it is installed from underneath and from inside the car. Damn near fit as if it were designed for the car.




Next I used a 50oz 164 tooth flexplate for a 1990 mustang 5.0 AOD transmission. Fit perfectly and I also used new flexplate mounting bolts torqued to spec. Don't forget to put the starter index plate on before the damn flex plate like I did unless you like doing work twice. The index plate I used was a 1990 mustang 5.0 AOD aluminum reproduction from CJ Pony parts.



Next I strapped the tranny onto the scissor transmission jack that I got off eBay and rolled it into place. But before I didn't that, I installed the stock v6 mustang torque converter into the tranny. Make sure to put a quart of new fluid into the converter before putting it on the tranny. Also, make sure you fully seat it on to the input shafts completely. You will feel a series of clicks as it seats on the shafts. As you line the transmission up to the back of the motor, be sure that when your torque converter studs go through the flex plate holes that nothing is binding and that you can slightly wiggle the converter. That way you will know you are all the way on the input shafts fully. Install your trans bell housing bolts to the engine. I used reproduction AOD bolts from latemodel restoration and I also used their AOD torque converter hardware for AOD to mount the converter to the flex plate.



Now here's the mystery that no one on the internet seemed to confirm in my months of research... What crossmember do you use?!? Well if you are using the same transmission as I am from a v6 mustang then just a regular 1965/6 AOD conversion crossmember will work perfectly!!! The only thing I did was enlarge the mounting holes slightly for ease of installation. For the tranny mount, a 1965 stock C4 mount works perfect as well. Also I ground down the rear passenger corner of the trans where the pan mates up simply for clearance to drop the pan in the future.




Now here is where I found a clearance issue. The tab I'm pointing at is useless to us so I simply cut it off and went on with my life. Before I cut it, it was contacting the trans tunnel.



Next with the transmission resting on its new AOD crossmember, I torqued the converter bolts to spec.




When I went to bolt the shifter cable to the transmission I found that the mounting bracket needed to be slightly trimmed to fit. Two seconds with a cut off wheel and it fit like a glove, bolted up perfectly, and went through its gears like it was meant to.


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next It was onto the trans cooler. I ran 3/8 I.d. Transmission hose from the tranny to the radiators cooler then to a B&M auxiliary trans cooler then back to the tranny.



For the trans dip stick, I used a stock 2001 mustang v6 tube and dipstick. It fit absolutely perfect. Bolted right up to the bell housing just like stock.




Next I installed the driveshaft. Here is some more good info. The T-5 conversion drive shaft 50.5" from CJ Pony parts fits perfect with an 8" rear end. I was stoked about that because I already had that shaft. While I was underneath installing it I saw a potential header clearance issue with one tab on the trans that I am pointing at. Sawzal'd it right off and moved on. The headers I ended up using were headman shortys for 1965 mustang small block. Fit perfectly.



Now onto the Baumann controller wiring. There are 3 wire harnesses that get routed to the tranny. I opted to use the stock reverse light wiring hole to route the wires through. I opened the whole up just enough to fit all the wires through. I bought Baumann's pin removal tool to remove the plugs and fit all the wires through the smallest hole possible. I used a rubber grommet to keep the wires safe and water out of the floor boards.






Next I routed the wiring around the floor pan on the passenger side then up the side and under the dash where I ended up mounting the controller in the glove box. It fits nice and doesn't take up much space at all.



In my application I used a Ron Morris EFI conversion wire harness. Their harness included a connection for a plug and play Baumann controller. It connects the required power, ground, TPS signal, tach signal, and power on signal all in one shot. If you didn't have that connection then you would need to simply wire that info yourself. Still no biggie. Here is the controller and its inputs before I installed it in the glove box.



With the interior all back in I ended up using a stock 1995 mustang automatic shif handle instead of the 2001 handle because the newer one is ugly as hell. It fit right on the 01 shifter perfect. There was no O/D off button when using the older handle but that's no problem because you could mount a momentary switch anywhere you want for that or a simple click of the rotary nob on the Baumann controller serves the same purpose. For the shift boot I used a Lokar boot and stainless ring. I plan to install a factory 65' center console so the boot was temporary.




With the car back on the ground I temporarily clamped some mufflers to the car to try it all out before it went to the muffler shop. It ended up taking 12.5 quarts of transmission fluid.





Overall driving impressions are unbelievable. The Baumann controller is legit. Super easy to set up, adjust on the fly, and gives you all the transmission parameters you need to see while driving. The car is honestly so much more fun to drive as an auto compared to the manual believe it or not. It lays rubber all the way through second. It's smoother on the freeway and with the 3.55:1 gears and the 235/45r17's on the back it spins about 2,300 at 70mph which does not suck at all. I would recommend this swap to anyone who is on the fence. Now for the parts...

Ebay:
-2001 Mustang V6 4r70w WITH speedo splines on the output shaft
-AOD tailshaft RF-F2TP-7A040-AA
-450 lb Low Lift Transmission Jack 7 1/4" to 23 1/4" Lift Height Inc Strap Cradle

CJ Pony Parts:
-AOD Transmission crossmember TRA-656-639
-AOD Transmission starter index plate TSP12
-AOD Inspection plate INSP10
-T5/AOD Conversion 50.5" driveshaft DS5
-T5 28 spline Driveshaft yoke T5Y
-65-73 Transmission Mount TM2253

Late Model Restoration:
-AOD Torque converter nuts HDW-377704S
-AOD transmission to engine block bolts HDW-6392B
-AOD flexplate to crank bolts LRS-6379AK
-4r70w trans fluid/filter/gasket LRS-4R70WSVC

Summit Racing:
-B&M Transmission cooler 70268
-Headman shorty headers 88400
-Lokar shift boot 70-FMB

Baumann Electronic Controls:
-Quick 4 Electronic Transmission Control System

LKQ Dismantlers OKC:
-2001 V6 Mustang automatic shifter with cable
-1995 Mustang automatic shift nob

Amazon:
-Jones Exhaust Sxp4 2-1/2stamped X-Pipe
-Derale 13017 Transmission/Engine Oil Hose for the trans fluid to cooler lines
-Heatshield Products (204012) 1/2" ID x 10' Hot Rod Sleeve Roll to shield the trans lines

Please let me know if anyone has any questions about any of this. In the next month or two I will be doing a full write up on installing a Vortech 4FA218-010L V-3 SCi-Trim Supercharger Kit on the car as well. That is another write up that is lacking on the innerwebs. Cheers ?
 

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Very nice write up and pics. I may have to reference. My current plan is for T56 in my 65. I really like shifting and having those 6 gears. HOWEVER, I realize I am not getting younger and my damaged knees aren't getting any better so I have been giving thought to a change in plans.
 

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Is it mated to 5.0L Roller block or an original 289/302 Block? How many horses does the engine have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's a 5.0 roller but the block is the same bolt pattern as any 289/302 variation. I have never dynoed the car but in present form I would have to guess between 280-300 at the wheels. These v6 4r70w's have been proven to withstand 450 plus horsepower stock.

In the last month I have already beat the living crap out of it and the trans temp never got above 176. Also the more I drive it the better the Baumann controller fine tunes its shift tables. When I want to shift it manually it's a ton of fun as well. I couldn't be happier with this setup. There will probably be a looser torque converter in its future after I install the supercharger.
 

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Nice write up. I too plan on doing this swap in the future to my 66 and like you I've been researching for some of the same answers as you. For some reason I couldn't follow the progress with the photos...they are not showing up on my computer but, the wording is good and descriptive.
Thank you for posting!
 

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Good job! When I did my swap I made my own cross member. I like how you ran the wires and might have to go that route. I ran mine up through the firewall and I melted my wires on the exhaust. One thing I didn’t like about the box is that it has wires coming off the bottom and side. I wish they would make the box with wires coming off on one side. I wish I could’ve seen this before you buttoned up the interior but you should run an OD off switch. There will be times where you won’t want it to be going into 4th around town.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wish I could’ve seen this before you buttoned up the interior but you should run an OD off switch. There will be times where you won’t want it to be going into 4th around town.
I will probably add one eventually after I install the factory center console just to have. I haven't felt a need for it yet around town because I am using the stock cam and it has great low rpm driving manors. It would be a must if I still had my trickflow cam in it. For now I can just push the selector switch on the controller to turn o/d off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What rear gears do you have? I went from 2.79 stock to a 3.80. With that 279, it was a rocket on the highway! 380 is good but wish I had 350's
I currently have an open 3.55:1 but I plan on changing to a true track or a trackloc with 3.40:1's. That ratio will suit the coming supercharger a little better I think.
 

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Great write up! Nice use of pic and ect. It would be nice to see what people done this FE engine.
 

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Fantastic write up! Gives confidence to those who may not be confident enough to do it themselves. I am also looking to swap from a T5 so I enjoyed reading it. I already have the supercharger on mine though ha ha
 

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I just did the swap and I enjoy it but I noticed the starter makes a weird sound when it starts up. I don't what starter he put in my 66 mustang. It isa 1985 302 and the 4R70W is from a 2000 mustang v6. Did you use shims at all to align the starter? Perhaps a 1985 starter would be better?
 
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