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Discussion Starter #1
hello,
i'm from italy, a friend of mine has a 1965 convertible 200ci auto, it was converted to power disc brakr front instead of original drum with a kit purchased on Ebay years ago.
this kit contains booster, master cylinder (original jellyjar, with only ONE line to junction block), rotor, hoses, spindle and all hardware.
after mounts, brake pedal is very hard, 1/2 inch of travel, and disc DON'T STOP!.
only original rear drum stop car.
no air in circuit, pushrod is correct, oil in caliper, vacuum on booster.
what the hell is happend? i think master cylinder don't be correct, only one line to block can't be sufficent.
thanks.

thanks.
 

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You got pics of the set-up?
Your friend needs to put a dual MC for disc brakes in there. Try one for a 73 Maverick with disc brakes. Forget that fruit jar. If its got a booster and the correct large single disc MC I dont think the set-up would fit an early Mustang. Too long.
So Im assuming your friend is using a small single bowl drum MC.

Anyhow, is the plumbing correct? Proportioning valve to rear circuit? Oil in caliper? But is there pressure in there when you press the pedal? I mean when bled does the brake fluid get pushed out with force? If so...maybe frozen caliper pistons?

Hope this helps.

Joe
 

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While the single master is not a safe as a dual, it should work perfectly. Something is wrong with the steup, or the booster itself. I'm looking forward to the photos.
 

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22GT, you think the booster is suspect? He says he's getting pressure to the rears. That tells me the pedal/rod and booster (not sure if its "boosting") are at least getting an input to the MC.
Seems like the front circuit (from the junction block forward) is bad.
Could it be a clogged junction block?

"Only one line to block cant be sufficient." Didnt original single bowl disc MC have two lines coming out? One to front circuit and one to rear?

Stopping the car with just the rears is a bad situation.

Joe
 
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