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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 1965 mustang with the original type motor mounts.
I keep hearing that this early type mounts is garbage.
Is this really true? i am installing a mildly upgraded engine (around 300hp), and possible aftermarket headers.
Would the never 66- style mounts be necessary in this case?
If i convert to this never style, is it only the mount itself that i have to change, or is it the hole assembly with brackets also?

Thanks in advance
 

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Six of one, half dozen of the other. I'm sure others will chime in, but the '66 mounts were simply to streamline production. I personally prefer the earlier mounts.

I've got a set of pinned '65 mounts for my rusty project and RM mounts for my clean car. But only because I needed some clearance.
 

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I have a 1965 mustang with the original type motor mounts.
I keep hearing that this early type mounts is garbage.
Is this really true?
No, they work just fine. Ford made a change to a cheaper design during the 66 model year to save money.
i am installing a mildly upgraded engine (around 300hp), and possible aftermarket headers.
Would the newer 66- style mounts be necessary in this case?
Only if the headers fail to clear the 65 style mounts properly.
If i convert to this newer style, is it only the mount itself that i have to change, or is it the whole assembly with brackets also?
Everything between the car body and engine block is completely different and must be replaced.

If you're worried about separation, drill your mounts and pin them. Replacement Anchor-brand mounts for your car are less than $3 each from Rockauto. That's not a typo.
 

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It's an old dirt track / runners trick. Determine where you have clearance on one side for a retaining nut, even if the other side of that spot isn't clear. Drill a hole all the way through the mount. If one side has no clearance, countersink for a flat head bolt. Put a nylock nut on the other side, with maybe 1/8" clearance, so of course the bolt will be a little loose. This allows the mount to isolate vibration as it should. Your mounts will now be almost indestructible.
 

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If the engine is already out of the car I'd go ahead and swap them out at the same time. You do have to swap out both the motor mounts and motor mount brackets as the brackets are different for the two different style mounts. With 300hp I don't think you'd have an issue with the original style, although depending on the age and condition, I'm sure anything could be possible. For peace of mind and not being too terribly expensive, I'd personally do it. It also pushes the motor up slightly higher to give you a bit more room for the headers to fit. Which comes in handy when you're working on the engine, replacing spark plugs and so on. The motor mounts themselves are only about $12 a piece but the brackets are a little more spendy at just under $100.


 

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a 66 i bought the college kid was using it as a daily driver and a 1/4 mile drag rcer with a 351w stroker and using the 65 style mounts but addded a looose chain on the driver side in case of motor mount failure. Wes
 

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I have a ‘65 and my engine is out. What is pinning the motor mounts?
[/QUOTE
I like the 65 style mounts. once they are pinned they can take some serious abuse. I use them in my beater 65 Falcon with no issues.
 

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Pinned my original to the car '65 mounts 20+ years ago. 60k miles since then no issues. Did not even need to counter sink them. 1/2" bolts with nylock nuts.
 

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Pinned my original to the car '65 mounts 20+ years ago. 60k miles since then no issues. Did not even need to counter sink them. 1/2" bolts with nylock nuts.
I did not counter sink the bolts on my 65 either.
How did you not have to countersink the bolts? A few pictures from my 65 mounts. 2 bolts per mount.

745675


745676
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the replys!
Seems like the 65 mounts is strong enough,
but i am still worried about fitting aftermarket longtube headers because of the clearance.
A lot of mustang experts has told me that the reason ford changed the mounts, was because that the engine actually sits wrong in the car
 

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Thanks for the replys!
Seems like the 65 mounts is strong enough,
but i am still worried about fitting aftermarket longtube headers because of the clearance.
A lot of mustang experts has told me that the reason ford changed the mounts, was because that the engine actually sits wrong in the car
Just wondering if it could have been because Ford went from a 5 bolt to a 6 bolt block which is a little taller?
 

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Thanks for the replys!
Seems like the 65 mounts is strong enough,
but i am still worried about fitting aftermarket longtube headers because of the clearance.
A lot of mustang experts has told me that the reason ford changed the mounts, was because that the engine actually sits wrong in the car
That's not the reason. It has to do with the shape of the mounts making contact with some headers.. A lot of header manufactures used the 66 style mount when they designed their product so some will not fit the 65 style mounts. You can grind the 65 mounts down some to help fitment of the headers in a lot of cases.
 

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Thanks for the replys!
Seems like the 65 mounts is strong enough,
but i am still worried about fitting aftermarket longtube headers because of the clearance.
A lot of mustang experts has told me that the reason ford changed the mounts, was because that the engine actually sits wrong in the car
Experts? The 65 and 66 (late) motor mounts place the engine at the exact same height.
 

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I run tri ys and there is no interference. I have both the 65 and 66 mounts and chose the 65 because 1. I could pin them and 2. There is room for adjusting the motor around some. I mocked up my engine with both mounts and found the difference so negligible that it was probably due to the isolators. If there had been a difference I would've wanted the ones that placed the motor lower because I wanted more clearance on top running an air gap intake and may want to add a spacer to it. I think the only reasons Ford changed the mounts is because the stamped design was cheaper to manufacture. The early design makes t-5 swaps a little easier because you have room to move the engine around a little to help center the shifter. To the OP, I say run what you have but if you want to switch mounts I'll trade you my 66 mounts for your 65
 

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Just wondering if it could have been because Ford went from a 5 bolt to a 6 bolt block which is a little taller?
No, it is not taller, it's the exact same engine block with slightly relocated bellhousing attaching bolts. The early style motor mounts were used on both.
 
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