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I am considering buying this project, I am just not sure if what he is asking is worth it. $8500. What do you think?
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Dimples
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That looks to be about as rusty as they come. If you’re up to building a car around the roof, that’s probably not a terrible asking price. It’s probably a better candidate for a roof swap onto a solid coupe. It’d surely be less work.
 

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback T5 Ncas 9in Locker
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Gonna need a lot of work, if you can do it, it will save a lot. Just to get ready for paint your looking at 30k or more if you shop it out. Buy do a little work sale and buy up? Dont know your skills or wallet. Good Luck with your decision.
 

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I'd pass with that much visible rust.
 
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You can buy a complete running and driving '65/'66 Fastback for less money than it will cost you to bring that car to running and driving condition. Even if you do the work yourself the cost of parts and supplies needed to restore that rustbucket will exceed the price of buying a completed car. That's just one of the facts of life when it comes to restoring a vintage Mustang.
 

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Unless there's a drivetrain in it, he's about $5,000 too high. If there is a 'usable' drivetrain, he's still about $2,500 too high. I agree with Blake- you're buying a roof and interior trim panels for use on another coupe swap. Would I? Absolutely- been there done that, but I do all the work myself. Farmed out, you'll find out Allen is more than correct, and you'll be buried 3x over in the finished project.
 

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It's a lot of rust and in its present condition you can't fit it in the trash can. Too much work unless its a K code or something special.
Keep looking.
 

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Only if it's got a running drivetrain and functioning brakes...then drive it as is.

It would probably be easier and cheper to move the parts (and vin) over to a new dynacorn body than restoring that one.
 

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Run. Rebuilding that car will cost way more than buying a drivable fastback. Look at what's available for under $30K. If you got the car for free and paid for the resto work you would still be upside down.
 

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for a few thousand more (literally) you can purchase a brand new complete dyncorn body! That one has a lot of rust!

 

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Looks like a lot of work. Unless you're willing and have the time,money,knowledge I'd pass at that price.
 

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If I was looking for a fun, build over time, I'd get the Dynacorn body. Even if the car was almost free, so many unknown variables.

Now this does slightly change if you really enjoy doing your own bodywork and like the challenge.
 

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I think I'd pass and spend the money to get one much closer to "completion".

Please don't take this the wrong way.... There is plenty of data out there available on actual sale prices for nice examples of '65-66 2+2's. If you can't calculate what you'll need to spend in parts and labor to bring this car to THAT level then you're unprepared to take on such a project.

It is a far too common occurrence to find a car that is appealing but needs a lot of work, go out and buy it and a bunch of parts, and never finish it because the scope of work is beyond what you originally thought.

However, it's your money so, as a rough guide and just going by the photos be prepared to spend somewhere around the following on the following items...
a. Body, Paint & Exterior Trim
1) Parts - $10-12,000 (Sheet metal, subframe repair, cowl, floors, rocker panels, etc.)
2) Labor - $10-12,000
3) Includes fuel tank and fuel/brake hard lines.
b. Engine, Mechanical
1) Parts - $3,500 (pistons, crank regrind, rod recond., cylinder head service, intake, exhaust, radiator, water pump, etc.)
2) Labor - $3,000 (includes machine shop services)
3) Add $600 if you have to purchase a core 5.0, like one from an Exploder/Mountaineer)
c. Drivetrain (Transmission & Rear End)
1) Parts - $1,200 (manual or automatic rebuild, rear end rebuild)
2) Labor - $800
3) Add $1,000 if you have to purchase a transmission.
d. Chassis (Suspension & Steering)
1) Parts - $1,800 (springs/shocks, tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, sway bar bushings & links, strut rod bushings, shackles, hardware)
2) Labor - $1,000
3) Assumes replacement of worn parts & rebuild of steering box. Excludes any power steering addition or rebuild)
e. Brakes
1) Parts - $1,600 (assumes K-H front disc conversion, rear brake service w/drums, wheel bearings & seals, flex hoses, hard lines)
2) Labor - $800
3) Assumes manual (non-power) brake system.
f. Electrical (Wiring, switches & senders, gauges, alternator, starter, regulator, lamps, wipers, horn, etc.)
1) Parts - $1,500
2) Labor - $1,000
3) Assumes original harness are pretty much "toast". Assumes rebuild of alternator & starter.
g. Interior (headliner, upholstery, door panels, kick panels, dash pad, carpet, "hard" trim.
1) Parts - $1,500
2) Labor - $800

Add everything up then add 10-15% for "oopsies" and whatever applicable tax amounts.
 

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Having competed a complete restoration of my 65 CVT, I see a similar situation in your project. BTW, I have spent approx. $29K in receipts for parts plus $2500 for bodyshop tools. Are you up to it?
 

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Dimples
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Nice driver fastbacks are in the low 30’s. Lots of them.

It would cost more than that in parts and materials alone to bring that car to nice driver status. That’s if every tiny bit of labor was free.

For someone on a crusade to save the condemned, I’m sure it would be a very rewarding project. Those people are few and far between.
 

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My opinion for free - it would only be worth considering if that was an authentic hipo GT and the hipo parts were still there.

I think if I were starting over now on my 65 fastback which was a factory C code car, I would salvage the usable parts and start over with a whole reproduction body. The body and frame shop said that is what I should do. It has been a long and continuing nightmare to try and get my car back on its feet.
 
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Buy it! (unless the engines gone/seized.)
Its a dreamers car and so only a fool would hope to pay shops to do the work. Be a 5yr DIY hero! If you are short on tools, space, money thats more like 10 years:)
Check the doors bottoms' and if they are bad offer something that starts with 7, start there anyway..
If the rot is into the frame rails and torque boxes then it gets lower to the >$5 basket case range. Thats twice as good as a Dynacorn body at half the price, so thats makes it 4X the value of a blank body.:geek:
 
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