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Discussion Starter #1
My horn has always seemingly had issues working. It came to a head when I was actually trying to use it out and about driving and it simply didn't work.

I ran through the testing, jumping the horns themselves and they worked. The turn signal switch was replace a few years ago and that seems to be working just fine. I figured that at a minimum I could try replacing the Plate Set for Horn Ring as well as replace the Contact Spring and Insulators.

Well, what was supposed to be a 15-20 minute job has left me puzzled. I swapped out all the parts and now I have two issues:

1) Getting the wheel horn ring on is nearly impossible. The contact plate (circled in red in Pic #4) makes so much contact to the 12v pin (circled in yellow - Pic #1) that comes through the steering wheel.
2) If I manage to get the horn ring buggered on, the horn is constantly on.

I know that the horn ring is a Scott Drake repo. The plastic piece that comes in the Plate Set for Horn Ring seems different than what I pulled off my wheel. The old one seemed to be grooved so that it lined up when locked in better (also circled in red in Pic #4). The new one (Pic #3), when and if I can get it in, is not quite lined up; like it needs an extra 1/4" clockwise to line up.

So, can anyone help with this? I understand that 64 1/2 and 65 are pretty similar but that 64.5 had generators and 65 had alternators. Could the steering wheel itself be messed up and not properly fitted for this?

IMG_20200412_123207.jpg
IMG_20200412_123200.jpg
IMG_20200412_135229.jpg
IMG_20200412_135234.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is your car a '64.5? It uses a totally different horn system than the '65 and later cars.
No it is not. It is a 65 with the alternator.
 

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The tab in your first photo provides electrical contact to the plate. I have often had to 'fudge' the spacing to get that to work right.

The nylon ring is a later part, which was the Service Replacement for all of them, I think it was a D2AZ. Filing these is often required, for good fit. Are you using a repro spring? They are invariably far too stiff. An original is by far better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The tab in your first photo provides electrical contact to the plate. I have often had to 'fudge' the spacing to get that to work right.

The nylon ring is a later part, which was the Service Replacement for all of them, I think it was a D2AZ. Filing these is often required, for good fit. Are you using a repro spring? They are invariably far too stiff. An original is by far better.
I have no way to know if it's a repo spring or not. The car went through a 'reno' before I bought it.

What do you mean by 'fudge' the spacing?

I'm confused as to what you're filing. Thank you for the insight!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so I haven't gotten much response back on this. here's my follow up question:

Is the 12v prong that 22GT said he had to fudge in the previous posts supposed to make constant contact to the contact plate that is apart of this kit?

Or is the 12v prong only supposed to hit the contact plate when the user hits the horn?

The answer to this question will solve whether or not I have a horn issue or a steering wheel issue that I inherited from the previous owner.

Please, anyone reading this, go out and tell me if the 12v prong in the first image circle in yellow hits the contact plate circled in RED. This will assist me in troubleshooting further. There are no diagrams to tell me this answer.

Thank you!
 

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The "hook shaped" piece of bar stock should be in constant contact with the horn ring. The 2 copper contacts will complete the circuit depending on which way the horn button is pressed... the reason there are 2 contacts is if you press on either one side or the other (or the bottom) spoke ONE of the contacts will at least touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok so the fact that when I hook the battery back up with the hook shaped piece touching the plate means that one (or both) of the contacts are hitting the other side of the plate - thus completing the circuit.

So, I shouldn't be focused on the hook but rather the other two contact points. Maybe they are sitting too high?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The spring should keep the contacts from touching.
The problem, and I'm kicking myself cause in my daily driver job I'm better about not changing more than one variable at a time, is that I replaced the contact springs and insulators. I couldn't find the proper screws to hold the metal contact to the plastic. I could be the fact that (1) the spring doesn't have the tension or (2) the contacts are too high or both.

All I needed to know was whether that hook piece makes constant contact with the backing plate. I have noticed a difference between the contact plate thickness in the repo kit from NPD vs what came out of the horn ring 'originally'. That's why I had the bugger of a time getting it on with the new kit.
 

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Yes the hook should be in constant contact, I had to use a point file on the copper contacts to get clearance so my horn wouldn't sound continually.
 

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For clarification. The hook should be in constant contact with the ring located inside the horn spokes - forth picture - in area labeled 12 V pin. And the screws holding the contacts in pics 1 & 2 look wrong, they stick up to higher than the contacts themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For clarification. The hook should be in constant contact with the ring located inside the horn spokes - forth picture - in area labeled 12 V pin. And the screws holding the contacts in pics 1 & 2 look wrong, they stick up to higher than the contacts themselves.
So I've been thinking that these screws are incorrect. I ordered the kit from NPD to replace the contacts and insulators (plastic pieces) but it didn't come with any screws.

What screws are correct? Would a JB Welder-like product suffice to keep the plastic insulator and the the metal contact held together work better?

To me it seems that these insulators are really there to keep the metal contacts connected to the plastic and the plastic is held to the steering wheel by push pins on the opposite side of the hole where the screw goes to.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just get rid of it altogether...i didn't even bother trying to fix mine
I meant unhook the wires to the horn
Have you driven in Florida? Without a horn, I'd be a sitting duck for the idiots on the road. The social distancing and stay at home orders hasn't stopped them. I'm only taking this ol' gal out once every few weekends just to make sure things don't go completely to **** within the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I've been thinking that these screws are incorrect. I ordered the kit from NPD to replace the contacts and insulators (plastic pieces) but it didn't come with any screws.

What screws are correct? Would a JB Welder-like product suffice to keep the plastic insulator and the the metal contact held together work better?

To me it seems that these insulators are really there to keep the metal contacts connected to the plastic and the plastic is held to the steering wheel by push pins on the opposite side of the hole where the screw goes to.

Thoughts?
Back to the real question at hand.....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
no one can tell me what type of screws hold the contacts to the plastic insulators in the steering wheel? It does seem like the ones I have in there currently are 'too tall' and are making constant contact with the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well, I decided to pull the steering wheel off with the new Harbor Freight puller that I bought a week+ ago. I learned some interesting stuff, including how the two push spring-pins (part of the turn signal switch assembly) work with the two circular brushes (on inside of steering wheel - you can't see them unless the steering wheel is off).

Also found the reason why the steering wheel has been touch and go - the yellow wire spring-pin (top/left) is severely worn. It was replaced new about 6-7 years ago.
IMG_20200425_142547.jpg

Let's start with the steering wheel and that 12v prong. There are two brushes in the back of the steering wheel.
IMG_20200425_144224.jpg

The larger outer one actually has that 12v prong that sticks out which makes constant contact with the horn ring assembly plate. This brush is held on by two machine screws to the steering wheel itself.
IMG_20200425_143313.jpg IMG_20200425_150540.jpg IMG_20200425_152524.jpg

Next, the smaller inner brush is actually connected by the two screws that hold the connectors in place. Again, 2 machine screws.
IMG_20200425_143231.jpg IMG_20200425_143213.jpg

I don't know how to figure out what the length or thread type is. It was a guessing game of what I had lying around. But after pulling the 12v brush (which had proper short screws) I just matched up what I could find for the insulator/connector screws.
IMG_20200425_152524.jpg

I also cut down the longer one with a dremmel because I was a little afraid that it was too long and may cause arcing - it was almost hitting the outside larger brush.

IMG_20200425_154007.jpg

Next, onto the turn signal switch. The two pins are what triggers the horn. If you jump them and all the wiring is correct, the horn will blare. If not, you've got some other wiring/connection issues.
IMG_20200425_142547.jpg

The blue/white wire push spring-pin (outside/right-bottom) will hit the outer larger brush that feeds the 12v prong. The yellow wire feeds back to the horns. When the horn ring assembly is mounted and contact to either of the insulator contacts is made, the circuit is completed and the horn blares.

12v (constant on) blue/white wire push spring-pin --> large outer brush/12v prong --> horn contact plate --> insulator contact(s) --> machine screw that connects to inner smaller brush --> yellow wire push spring-pin --> horns up front)

So, knowing all this now could you all answer the following questions:

1) Any ideas what would have caused the one pin to wear like that?
2) Is there any way to replace just the one yellow push pin that seems to have been worn down?
3) Is it just better to fully replace the turn signal switch assembly
4) Should I look into a new steering wheel (since this one may have some alignment issues and other manufacturing issues)?

Alignment issue:
IMG_20200425_164743.jpg
 

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