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Discussion Starter #1
Just recently started to do some brake repairs on a 1965 Mustang 289, 3 speed, manual drum brakes.
I want to replace the master cylinder, I'm sticking to the original jelly jar single type.
Here's my problem: According to my repair book, to remove the master cylinder, simply disconnecting the brake line, unbolting the 2 bolts from the firewall, remove rubber boot, and slide master cylinder off pushrod. Says it's not necessary to remove pushrod from pedal. In my case, the pushrod will not come out of the master cylinder! Is it 'normal' for the pushrod to get 'stuck' inside the cylinder? Is there anything holding it in there? Do I just need to 'muscle' it out?
 

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Don't believe everything you read. You have to remove the cylinder (M/C) from the car and unbolt the master, and inside the car remove the spring pin from the steel dowel that runs through the brake pedal. Once the spring pin is removed, You can remove the brake light switch temporarily, and slide off the "ringed" pushrod so you can remove the master from the car. Once that is done, You have to mount the M/C in a bench vice, (and or step on it and use your shoes!) and slide a big screwdriver through the ring and pull like a mother*&^%$#! At the end of the pushrod is a Tri-sided spring clip.. that retains the original rod in.. You have to really "jerk" the rod out, but it will come out... Once it comes out....Chuck the old Master...If it has a metal cap, Keep the old cap for a later project.. Otherwise, Chuck the plastic cap too. You SHOULD RE-USE the original rod, or you can use a new one if it is the same length.. You can also re-use the spring clip at the end of the pushrod also if need be. *Also, Once the master is out of the car, Remove the rubber boot so you can work, and re-use it if its not torn, but most new M/C's come with a new one....some do not.

Tony K.
 

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Tony, strange, mine just came right off the firewall... I just undid the main bolts to the master, slid it off the pushrod, slid the new mater onto the rod and reisntalled the bolts....
 

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PS: Don't forget those kits Don't use a "True Dual Safety System". The kits DO NOT incorporate the SAFETY Pressure "H" metering valve.. that equalizes and balances the Brake pressure for front and back brakes in the event of a leak.

Tony K.
 

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If someone did not replace the 3-sided clip on the pushrod, or if the pushrod clip was deformed, The rod will slide right out...

If the 3-sided clip is in correctly, You can only remove it by taking the master out of the car...or cursing under your dash trying to take it out... Take your pick..

Tony K.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the most likely culprit is a 3 sided clip on the end of the rod. Would have been nice if the last person didn't replace the clip!! Thanks for your advice. Now I know what I'm dealing with. Looks like its gonna be a pain to get to the brake pedal pin, I can barely see up there!
 

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Dave, I took mine out thinking I had to (instructions in shop manual etc), was an incredible pain in the ***. On a whim, as I said before, I tried just taking out the master cyl bolts and it came right off, lucky I guess.

Tony,

Do I need that clip? A safety issue?
 

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Dave, I took mine out thinking I had to (instructions in shop manual etc), was an incredible pain in the ***. On a whim, as I said before, I tried just taking out the master cyl bolts and it came right off, lucky I guess.

Tony,

Do I need that clip? A safety issue?
yes you need it. It is possible for the brake petal to move far enough forward for the rod to come out of the m/c : NO BRAKES.

Z.
 

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Thanks Z, I just picked up a disc kit, and will make sure it is there this spring when she goes back on the road.
 

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Thanks Z, I just picked up a disc kit, and will make sure it is there this spring when she goes back on the road.
I think there is supposed to be an upper movement stop rubber (or bracket?) on the petal assembly that will also keep the petal from moving too far rearward, but there isn't one on my '66, unfortunately.

Z.
 

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If you drive it, ditch the single and go dual circuit. That one almost bit me when I was a teenager. :skullnbones:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well, ended up removing the pushrod from the pedal. Tried like a gorilla to pull the pushrod out - no luck. Ended up removing the piston from m/c, then cutting piston in half to remove it from pushrod! Thanks for your advice, your knowledge came in handy. That's the good news. After I hooked it all back up, now the brake line into the m/c leaks like crazy at the fitting! Will it never end!
 

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Well, ended up removing the pushrod from the pedal. Tried like a gorilla to pull the pushrod out - no luck. Ended up removing the piston from m/c, then cutting piston in half to remove it from pushrod! Thanks for your advice, your knowledge came in handy. That's the good news. After I hooked it all back up, now the brake line into the m/c leaks like crazy at the fitting! Will it never end!

Hey there Dave,

Not saying that this will absolutely fix your problem, but you might try this. It might be something as simple as taking your tubing wrench to loosen and retighten the fitting. I have read that sometimes this is needed to properly seat the fitting. I will admit I am not 100% positive if that was just for SS line or not, but it's worth a try.
 

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if you now using stainless steel lines they will required much more pressure to seal compared to the stock mild steel lines. I was very uncomfortable with the tightening required when I installed new stainless lines. The master cylinder end of the lines needed no undue force to seal, but the proportioning valve end was a real b**ch to get to stop leaking. I was sure the threads in the prop valve were going to strip out, but they held & the leaking stopped.

I would ask for mild steel lines whenever possible.

Z.
 

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I hope you recheck all connections.A leak in a single ciruit system concerns me. You should also make sure that your parking brake is in good working order ,because you never know. I'd serioulsy consider upgrading to a dual master,it's not as tricky or as expensive as you might think.

When I talk about failures of single masters I speak from experience. I remember reaching for my parking brake as I was heading towards a red light at about 75 mph. I was a dumb kid, flying on the parkway,My rear u joint let loose and broke the brake line. My parking brake didn't work..... So I flew through the light at 70 , crapped my pants,and waited for my car to coast to a stop(can't down shift with out a driveshaft). I'm lucky I didn't get killed or worse yet kill anybody else.
 
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