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Greetings-

Someone damaged the drivers side exterior windshield molding for my 1965 Ford Mustang Convertible and and am NOT able to locate a retailers who sell to replace. It currently doesn't sit flush against the pillar molding which allows water to enter. Does anyone have info on where this can be purchased new? I assume someone took a pry-bar at the shop because it was flush when dropped off. See pics of before and after. Ive check CJ's, Mustangs Unlimited, Nat. parts Depot., Summit Racing. Thank you! MD
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If it happened at the shop, they should be responsible for having it repaired properly.
 

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If it happened at the shop, they should be responsible for having it repaired properly.
One would think esp after a 15k bill! Nope so I’ve got to figure out how to fix myself. I’ve been through 3 window guys and front window still leaks and need this damaged piece replaced. Any ideas on where I can find?
 

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I’m pretty sure I’ve got a full set down in the barn. I’d rather not split it up, but if you can’t find anything else- let me know
 

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I’m pretty sure I’ve got a full set down in the barn. I’d rather not split it up, but if you can’t find anything else- let me know
Thank you for the follow up. Trying to see if a medal guy can straighten out. Please let me know how much if you sold all together (if you’d be ok parting with) Are they in good shape?
 

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I’ll go down tonight and see if I can find them- I’ve gotta grab some wheels anyway, so good timing. I’ll let you know
 

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Doesn't seem like the metal bend would make it leak unless they also damaged the windshield gasket and Glazing compound.
 

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Doesn't seem like the metal bend would make it leak unless they also damaged the windshield gasket and Glazing compound.
They didn’t install anything with the new rubber window seal so I have to learn how to do it correctly myself. They used no sealant! That’s what $400 bucks gets you I guess. Plan it to fix the damaged chrome and correctly seal the window myself if possible. Been through 3 paid window guys all with same result. They just replace the 20 dollar seal and nothing else. This has been my dream car since a kid but a bit of a nightmare dealing w bad fixes.
 

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The stainless moulding has nothing to do with keeping water out of the car.

You need to stop going to incompetent shops. The windshield seal requires the use of 1 1/2 tubes of 3M Glass Bedding Compound. Your guys are cheaping out because the stuff is about $15 per tube. Installing is easy. Install the glass and seal dry, using parachute cord on the inside to pull the seal through. If the seal you now have is undamaged, just use it as is where it is. Inject sealant in the slot between the seal and glass, then press the seal to the glass tightly. Inject sealant into the pinchweld slot, filling it completely, especially where the moulding clips are. Install the moulding immediately.

BTW, your moulding looks just fine, and can easily be repaired like new.

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Discussion Starter #11
The stainless moulding has nothing to do with keeping water out of the car.

You need to stop going to incompetent shops. The windshield seal requires the use of 1 1/2 tubes of 3M Glass Bedding Compound. Your guys are cheaping out because the stuff is about $15 per tube. Installing is easy. Install the glass and seal dry, using parachute cord on the inside to pull the seal through. If the seal you now have is undamaged, just use it as is where it is. Inject sealant in the slot between the seal and glass, then press the seal to the glass tightly. Inject sealant into the pinchweld slot, filling it completely, especially where the moulding clips are. Install the moulding immediately.

BTW, your moulding looks just fine, and can easily be repaired like new.

View attachment 746234
Thank you for the info and I’m going to try to do this myself. Any good books that diagram the blown apart car like the pic you posted. Mines a convertible that one looked coupe. 20 weeks and 15k nothing PRO about Pro Car Associates in Akron Ohio.
I’ll probably just replace seal again new for 20 bucks and saw one video on the rope trick. Need to learn how the bottom trim snaps into those little clips Bc I’m told those can be tricky. The water enters when washing or if it rains and drives me nuts Bc water inside is no good ever. I’ve tried to gently rubber mallet the chrome piece back tight but no luck yet. I’d be happy just to replace the single piece but zero luck finding anywhere.
 

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MDU
Try searchtempest.com, type in 1966 mustang convertible hit search and start looking at ads. You'll be able to find your parts, it will just take some time. I'm rebuilding a '68 GT convertible after a fire and I'm finding all my parts there.
Good luck,
Walt
 

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MDU
Try searchtempest.com, type in 1966 mustang convertible hit search and start looking at ads. You'll be able to find your parts, it will just take some time. I'm rebuilding a '68 GT convertible after a fire and I'm finding all my parts there.
Good luck,
Walt
Thank you very much for the info!
 

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Got lucky... the pas side has a ding, drivers is nice
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Got lucky... the pas side has a ding, drivers is nice
View attachment 746237
That would be the first time luck has been said w this car over the past few years but maybe I can change that. I’m new on here so if you want to message me a price and if the piece looks good esp where I have a bend, let’s see if we can make something happen. Thank you again for checking and everyone taking the time to answer. It’s nice not to feel totally alone w the car.
 

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I’ll PM you... I’m sure we can make a deal?
 

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Thank you for the info and I’m going to try to do this myself. Any good books that diagram the blown apart car like the pic you posted. Mines a convertible that one looked coupe. 20 weeks and 15k nothing PRO about Pro Car Associates in Akron Ohio.
I’ll probably just replace seal again new for 20 bucks and saw one video on the rope trick. Need to learn how the bottom trim snaps into those little clips Bc I’m told those can be tricky. The water enters when washing or if it rains and drives me nuts Bc water inside is no good ever. I’ve tried to gently rubber mallet the chrome piece back tight but no luck yet. I’d be happy just to replace the single piece but zero luck finding anywhere.
The Body Assembly Manual has excellent diagrams.

For placing the lower moulding (same piece as hardtops) I mask off the cowl, lay the moulding flat, and using a bone tool to protect the moulding, use a plastic mallett to work the moulding straight toward the rear of the car to get it under the clips. The lower moulding is actually pretty easy, as it is more rigid than most other mouldings.

If you use copious amounts of bedding compound, as I described, it is not possible to get water in the car.

I once replaced the front and rear seals on a hardtop. It had been done by three other shops and leaked every time. As I was finishing up, the owners arrived and watched. I told them they could go into the office and settle up. The guy's wife looked at the car sitting in the shop and said 'Aren't you going to take it outside and check it with a hose?' 'I said no, because it won't leak'.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The Body Assembly Manual has excellent diagrams.

For placing the lower moulding (same piece as hardtops) I mask off the cowl, lay the moulding flat, and using a bone tool to protect the moulding, use a plastic mallett to work the moulding straight toward the rear of the car to get it under the clips. The lower moulding is actually pretty easy, as it is more rigid than most other mouldings.

If you use copious amounts of bedding compound, as I described, it is not possible to get water in the car.

I once replaced the front and rear seals on a hardtop. It had been done by three other shops and leaked every time. As I was finishing up, the owners arrived and watched. I told them they could go into the office and settle up. The guy's wife looked at the car sitting in the shop and said 'Aren't you going to take it outside and check it with a hose?' 'I said no, because it won't leak'.
Thank you for the info! Are you talking about this book?
746389
Is the bedding compound what they sell in the tubes I assume for a caulk gun?
 
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