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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Wood Grey Automotive tire Metal Fastener


That's what was coming out of the pump to a rubber line. It's been retired now.

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It’s hard to see under all that stuff but the fuel line is in. So far I'm not touching anywhere, which is plain amazing. It took me way longer than I ever thought and there was no way I would have got it right if I hadn't watched @aakrusen video on this.


I'm still going to be fighting the heater hose and hopefully I have a smidge of clearance at the thermostat housing but it's going to be close.

Plus I need to start it up and check for leaks. But that has to wait for the heater to go back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Here’s my notes on the brakes:

Brakes are also going on soon. NPD had by far the best price on the disc kit. But then I went to a place called Sport Compact Warehouse for the master cylinder (it’s even the Mustang specific one). Shipped super quick and the price was far less than anywhere else.

$308 for the master cylinder kit and another $20 for the residual valve.

Disc kit (the solid discs and red calipers) was $664 plus $35 for shipping (which given how dang heavy the box was is more than fair!).

So roughly $300 more than a complete stock setup but I could have saved about $100 if I’d gone with the grey calipers.

The weight savings alone with the Wilwood calipers was worth it for me
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
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Export brace on. I really think getting the Monte Carlo bar on first helped. I just got one of these Milwaukee ratchets and I can’t believe I survived before. Cut down the time I was wrenching by at least half. I got one side of the brace on the shock tower and then using the pry bar in the holes on the firewall I moved it into place. It did take an assist from a second pry bar but then it was on the other side. The bolts on the firewall nearly dropped in. I used a 1/2 deep socket, 9/16 socket and 9/16 wrench. Surprisingly painless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Cleaned up the rusty fan and assembled the new heater. I got the heater in and hit the fan switch and… nothing. I’ve traced that down to the ground strap between the engine and firewall as it’s, ahem, bad. I took the heater back out and got the motor to spin and it was hitting. Although I spun the fan by hand and there wasn’t any interference apparently it was to tight of tolerance. Spaced things out and bench tested and no issues. Got the heater back in and now will deal with the wiring.

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So the fan is still hitting but if I loosen up the speed nuts a little it doesn't. Well, until I started the car. I think I need to play around a little with the spacing. Not sure.

Speaking of which the car fired right up. So far no leaks from anywhere. Thermostat housing, hard fuel lines, heater, heater hoses. It might be nice enough tomorrow to take it for a spin and see how it does. But for now starting it up and getting it up to temp everything was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I think I have the heater set so the fan doesn’t hit. Didn’t get out for test drive yesterday but planning on it today.

Someone wise once said, ok, it may have been me, that if you find one wire nut on your car you’re going to find another. I found it tonight when I went to replace the alternator harness. It was whomever installed the ammeter. At this point I’ve disabled the ammeter and will just remove it. I’m replacing the headlight harness next so a majorly of the wiring in the engine bay will be new. Also the dipstick tube was unattached. So I had to bend it to get it to fit but at least now it’s not hitting the alternator.
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Fan is still hitting somewhere. Not sure what to do about this. Otherwise the export brace and Monte Carlo bar sure seem to have stiffened up the front end. It seemed like there was a little cowl shake before and now the front of car just feels solid. Some lowering and maybe a bigger sway bar should make it all that much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I like to say the hard part is done but I still need to do the hydraulics. But now I can get the wheels back on and lower the car to get into the engine compartment. I’m also glad that the wheels fit as that would have been really bad. I only had one backing plate stud that was stuck. And that came out with a cocktail of PB Blaster and consecutively bigger hammers. I’m so glad I didn’t need to escalate the violence past that. I was really afraid I’d have to get medieval on it like @aakrusen

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
And I was right. Need to replace the front hard lines so I was going to bend my own. I was hoping to reuse the line from the front to the back but figured the only way to properly rebend it would be to remove it. But when I crawled under the back of the car I noticed the rear hose was, ahem, no longer serviceable...

Since I have to replace the hose I just said screw it, and order all new lines. Everywhere.

I've test fit the master cylinder and also have the firewall plate in place. Now just need to wait for NPD to ship me the goodies.

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Just the rear brake cylinders will be used (they actually look new) but I’m going to replace them and then go with DOT 5 silicone fluid.
 
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