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Discussion Starter · #141 · (Edited)
Took the car to a place called Trackside in North Portland. They work on a lot of race cars so had no problem tackling this old car. The younger guy kept on insisting the he could adjust the lower a-arm but I had to keep telling him that it only looks like it moves. He pointed out the the front mounting bolts weren't in the same place from side to side. I chuckled and said it was within 1965 Ford Mustang spec. Actually I really told him that I set the front lower arms so they moved freely then locked them down.

The owner thanked me for coming in. He said he was happy to work on something interesting and not just some boring new car. Yes, I will be going back, especially after I get new wheels and tires.

Needless to say the car handles fantastic. I can still tweak the shocks some but otherwise it feels like a brand new car. As well it should considering everything is new on it. Driving up to the shop with wacked out caster was interesting. Coming home I could just bomb down the freeway.

Final numbers (they couldn't get them any closer with shims).
Caster: 2.53˚L 2.48˚R
Camber: -1.47˚L -1.32˚R
Toe Total: .23˚

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·


Sometimes when fabbing it takes a couple tries and trying different parts. The sequential LED strip came today and I was hoping that when you cut it shorter, which they said you could do, it would adjust the sequence. It didn’t. The good news is that I should be able to build the rest of the harness and try different light options. I did try the LEDs with a resistor and that dimmed them down. I don’t want them too bright and flashing right in my eyes. During the day it may not be bad but at night it might be blinding.






I made my jumpers and tucked them back behind the headlights. Then I ran the wire from the passenger front to the driver front to pick up the other wire. I then wrapped the wires (friction wrap, not electrical tape!) and ran them along the factory harness back to the firewall and then spliced in another plug. This will allow me to remove the hood and just unplug the harness. I always want to think about serviceability when adding parts.

I also made sure to test my turn signals along the way to make sure they still worked.

Just waiting for the new lights. Hopefully this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
I’ve been chasing a turn signal issue. The driver side front would sometimes not work. If I played with the wire it would work. I took the whole turn signal out and I think it was a bad butt joint on the ground. Plus the wire that was spliced in looked iffy. Cut that off and put a fresh wire and proper butt connector. So far it’s working. Bad ground will actually cause the passenger side signal to lightly flash as the 65 only have one indicator light on the dash that’s connected to both lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
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Got the grommet and wire clamp on. Considering this project done for now.

On to the next project. I have a ton of little parts. I just need to figure out which to do. I suspect it’s the brake and clutch pedal bushings. Fun times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
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Previous owner replaced the fuel tank with a new one. Never a bad idea. They used the old sending unit, also isn’t a bad idea. But full was reading about 3/4 so I’m going to try a new sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
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Someone at a cruise in was asking about my exhaust. If you’ve watched my videos you know it has a deep rumble and yet at speed it’s not loud or droning. He was asking me which mufflers I have and while I maybe looked once I had forgotten. So while under there dealing with the sending unit I thought I’d take a look. Final answer: Flowmaster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Scored this freshly rebuilt T5 for $800. I have a line on a 4sp Toploader but I’m going to pass on it even though it’s also a good deal too.

Going to throw the T5 behind my existing bellhousing with a kit I’ll order from MDL on Monday.

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
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Adapter plate installed last night. Also installed the u-joints.
You can’t install the trans without the shifter. I want the Hurst shifter but they are backordered for a couple months. I didn’t want the stock shifter so I went with a cheap shifter from Amazon. They appear to be a knockoff of the Steeda. It was $40 so I’ll consider it a stopgap measure.

I was considering getting the transmission in tonight but I tweaked my shoulder. I’m going to rest it tonight but very good chance I’ll go at it again soon.

I have very little hope the crossmember will go in with the exhaust in. The old parts came out because the transmission mount fell apart. Maybe the T5 will have enough room. I’ll find out soon enough.

I used an anaerobic sealant on the shifter. Several people had mentioned that silicone wouldn’t dry and it would leak.
 
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