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Discussion Starter #1
If I change out the stock bar for 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch will I see any big difference in handling? Thanks!!!
 

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It all depends on your other suspension mods you have.

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As others have stated. The sway bar itself isn’t going to do much. Doing the Shelby 1” drop, roller spring perches, competition crossmember, sport shocks and other things you will definitely notice more of a difference.
 

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I disagree I put a 1" ADDCO bar in and it made a big difference. But do your self a favor and do the UCA drop as well both combined and a good alignment will do wonders
 

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1 1/8"

They need all the help they can get :)

You will notice a dramatic difference, it was one of the first suspension mods I did on my '66. Definitely look into doing the Shelby drop as well, all it costs is your time and a drill bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My front end is pretty stock - all rebuilt and tight - was thinking about the larger bar - car handles nice as is but always thinking of better improvements.......
 

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You get to a point of deminishing returns. Over stock a 1” will make the car handle a little flatter but it’s still going to want to plow and not make best use of the tires limited grip with the stock geometry of alignment.

As the others mentioned, the Arning drop along with a good performance oriented alignment will give you what you’re looking for. Probably even if you stuck with the stock sway bar. The 1” works really well once you lower the upper arms. The 1” will feel like it’s working with the suspension instead of fighting to keep the car flat.

Stiffening up the body will help a lot and make suspension mods more used
 

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My front end is pretty stock - all rebuilt and tight - was thinking about the larger bar - car handles nice as is but always thinking of better improvements.......

First mod after insuring all of the suspension and steering components are in good working order....

"Shelby Drop"!
 

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You get to a point of deminishing returns. Over stock a 1” will make the car handle a little flatter but it’s still going to want to plow and not make best use of the tires limited grip with the stock geometry of alignment.

As the others mentioned, the Arning drop along with a good performance oriented alignment will give you what you’re looking for. Probably even if you stuck with the stock sway bar. The 1” works really well once you lower the upper arms. The 1” will feel like it’s working with the suspension instead of fighting to keep the car flat.

Stiffening up the body will help a lot and make suspension mods more used
This^

In a car that already has a tendency to plow (understeer), with a bigger bar you're
introducing more front roll stiffness........... without the benefit of fixing the front
suspension geometry, it will understeer more AT THE LIMIT. If you simply do the
Arning drop and the 1" bar, the situation will be vastly improved though.
And if you did a tubular UCA, you would pretty much eliminate the tendency to plow
in most driving situations.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Suspension

I've had the export brace. 1" sway bar and Koni shocks since about 1991. I've done the Dragon multiple times, Snake and a lot of other roads that demand quick handling and good control. Never had a problem in 392,000+ miles. When I had my shop, almost every early mustang got the export brace, 1" sway bar and decent shocks and every owner noticed a major improvement. Unless you doing Autocross, over 1" can be detrimental. The original 13/16" can be almost as effective as the 1", so I wouldn't bother changing it. I was never a fan of monte carlo bars- they get in the way, need extra holes drilled and with the export brace already there, don't add much.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the suggestion!!!! Think I will leave well enough alone - I have very good steering with my set-up and probably will not see any difference by adding a larger diameter bar.....Had to ask..
 

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Thanks for all the suggestion!!!! Think I will leave well enough alone - I have very good steering with my set-up and probably will not see any difference by adding a larger diameter bar.....Had to ask..
IHMO, your best take-away from this is to do the "Shelby drop". You'll get the best bang for the cheapest bucks!
 

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... And if you did a tubular UCA, you would pretty much eliminate the tendency to plow in most driving situations.
What's different about a tubular UCA that provides this benefit? And does this also apply to a '68?

Mahalo,

Harry Z
 

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What's different about a tubular UCA that provides this benefit? And does this also apply to a '68?

Mahalo,

Harry Z
Tubular UCA's get rid of that stupid steel-on-steel upper control arm shaft with
screw in end caps, improve the motion ratio, fix the ball joint angle issue, vastly
improve the camber curve and are a helluva lot stronger. (some also add positive
caster as well) The elimination of squeaks alone (and the potential for squeaks)
is worth the price of admission.
The cars are the same from 65-73 with this suspension improvement. (65/66
have a unique upper shaft bolt pattern but all the rest on up are the same)

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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I disagree I put a 1" ADDCO bar in and it made a big difference. But do your self a favor and do the UCA drop as well both combined and a good alignment will do wonders
The OP says his car is pretty much stock. I think he’ll feel the car be a little tighter up front but I don’t think it’s going to be extremely noticeable like say some Bilstein or Koni shocks, the Shelby 1” drop, roller spring perches, adjustable strut rods, tubular UCA’s/LCA’s and so on. It also doesn’t sound like he wants to go that route though, so to the OP I’d recommend, like I said before, doing the Shelby 1” drop and maybe some roller spring perches or adjustable strut rods. Those are going to make your car drive more comfortably and the adjustable strut rods will make it stay straighter when accelerating or hard braking. If you do go through with the Shelby 1” drop, make sure you get it aligned to those specs though or else you’re going to have issues.
 
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