@patrickstapler well, sign me up for a set! After losing my gears a couple times and having to realign my shifter with a drill bit on the side of the road, I replaced the springs at the base of the shifter which helps somewhat. Now that my Toploader is rebuilt too, I'm committed to it. So might as well upgrade the rods with heim joint shift rods while I'm at it. Have to think I will have covered all the bases to solve my shifting concerns....
The throat of the clevis need to be ground back a tad at the lever will hit. Also the clevis come with a 5/16 hole if I recall and needs drilled out to 3/8 and don't forget to get some 3/8 clevis pins. Since I ran the reverse rod below the shift trunnion reverse is now to the left and down, not like stock and left and up.
**For heim joints, get the teflon lined ones made by Aurora as cheap ones eventually bind up. Go to Maeco, off the internet, Coleman Racing, etc.
If you already have all this info and photos, LMK and I will remove it from your thread.
Yes. That’s the design I plan on mimicking. I have already purchased all the parts. @Caper50 i believe I have read somewhere where he was using the collar on the reverse rod to actuate the reverse switch.
@silverblueBP Good idea to just reuse the old stock rods. Most of the costs are in the heims and related parts...the tubes are maybe $20 at AFCO vs. $25 at McMaster plus AFCO's are already tapped too.
Well I priced out staying with the dual point distributor, buying all new wiring harnesses, and having Midlife rebuild my under dash harness. It was going to be almost 25% more than switching to MSD ignition and just manually wiring the car. Since I won’t need a VR because everything can run at 12V I chose the cheaper route.
A forum community dedicated to vintage Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, modifications, NOS parts, troubleshooting, VIN codes, and more!