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Spammer Hammer
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Discussion Starter #181
Nothing yellow on my car. QP sent blue AN fittings for the rear brakes. I don’t even want to to use them.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Nothing yellow on my car. QP sent blue AN fittings for the rear brakes. I don’t even want to to use them.
They go good with red, really “pops”
 

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Well I’ve never made them so I won’t commit to anything until after this set. I’m pretty sure I have enough 4130 alloy tube though.
@patrickstapler well, sign me up for a set! After losing my gears a couple times and having to realign my shifter with a drill bit on the side of the road, I replaced the springs at the base of the shifter which helps somewhat. Now that my Toploader is rebuilt too, I'm committed to it. So might as well upgrade the rods with heim joint shift rods while I'm at it. Have to think I will have covered all the bases to solve my shifting concerns....

Have you ever seen this Toploader Shift Linkage forum post?

After reading it I made a consolidated list of everything he used and stashed it in my project file for future use:

www.mcmaster.com
89955K56 Aircraft-Grade 4130 Alloy Steel (also AFCO 64001-30 Shifter Rod, 30 Inch Long @ Speedway Motors)

60645K141 Rods ends LH & RH

Here is what was ordered:
1 4749T132 1 Each Threaded Machine Zinc-pltd Stl Clevis Rod End, 3/8"-24 Left-hand Thread Size, 5/16" Id, 2-1/4"l

2 60645K142 1 Each High-strength Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Lh Male Shank, 3/8" Ball Id,1-1/4"l Thrd**

3 60645K141 2 Each High-strength Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Rh Male Shank,3/8" Ball Id,1-1/4" Thrdlg**

4 97245A679 1 Pack Zinc-plated Steel Clevis Pin, W/hairpin Cotter Pin, 3/8" Diameter, 1-1/4" Length

The throat of the clevis need to be ground back a tad at the lever will hit. Also the clevis come with a 5/16 hole if I recall and needs drilled out to 3/8 and don't forget to get some 3/8 clevis pins. Since I ran the reverse rod below the shift trunnion reverse is now to the left and down, not like stock and left and up.

**For heim joints, get the teflon lined ones made by Aurora as cheap ones eventually bind up. Go to Maeco, off the internet, Coleman Racing, etc.

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If you already have all this info and photos, LMK and I will remove it from your thread.
 
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Spammer Hammer
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Discussion Starter #187
Yes. That’s the design I plan on mimicking. I have already purchased all the parts. @Caper50 i believe I have read somewhere where he was using the collar on the reverse rod to actuate the reverse switch.
 

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You guys do know you can make these with the stock shifter rods right? Super easy and cheap!


Mark
 

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Spammer Hammer
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Discussion Starter #194
Steering column in place, but can’t be mounted until the dash bar is in place.

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What started all of this...
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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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I notice the distributor is conspicuously absent, anything you need to confess?
 
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Spammer Hammer
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Discussion Starter #196
Well I priced out staying with the dual point distributor, buying all new wiring harnesses, and having Midlife rebuild my under dash harness. It was going to be almost 25% more than switching to MSD ignition and just manually wiring the car. Since I won’t need a VR because everything can run at 12V I chose the cheaper route.
 
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