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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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But,as Allen so succinctly pointed out, the dizzy isn’t red, just the cap. So.....you really didn’t clear that up very well. Dust it off Mark, you may have a taker.
 

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My race is to build my car before I A. Die, B. Get so old I forget that I have a Mustang, C. Have so many mice and dirt daubers occupying the crevices of my “brand new” 32 year old 5.0 that it becomes a boat anchor and D.......there was a D.??, oh yeah, my C-clip rusted in two and fell off my engine stand axle and the wheel won’t stay on. So there’s that. So to summarize, you’re WAY ahead of me. I’m just circling waiting on cast off dizzys and forgotten camber plates. I’m pure opportunist.
 

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But seriously, this c-clip thing is hampering my game. Now I’m going to have to carry the engine around on my Kubota until I can match up a Chinese c-clip. THAT’S where my build is currently....
 

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But seriously, this c-clip thing is hampering my game. Now I’m going to have to carry the engine around on my Kubota until I can match up a Chinese c-clip. THAT’S where my build is currently....
I'm beginning to question your abilities if a "C" clip has you at a standstill... :LOL: :p

Sounds more like an excuse!

Allen
 

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Not a real issue Patrick, as Allen has called me on it, it’s yet another excuse. While working on my current priority, my barn, I sought to jumpstart my Mustang desire and moved my Northern Tool engine hoist with the failed hydraulic lift (froze during the winter maybe) so that I could roll my 5.0 out of the back corner on its Northern Tool engine stand and as I was rolling it out a wheel came off, courtesy of a rusted through c-clip. So i just shoved the wheel back on and rolled it back in the corner. So on top of either a new hydraulic o-ring or entire unit for my hoist I have to find a c-clip that I’m SURE is some standard size. I also failed to mention my Stihl Farm Boss chainsaw wouldn’t start yesterday either. Back to your regularly scheduled station now....
Oh yeah, I really have my heart set on a red c-clip...
 

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@patrickstapler well, sign me up for a set! After losing my gears a couple times and having to realign my shifter with a drill bit on the side of the road, I replaced the springs at the base of the shifter which helps somewhat. Now that my Toploader is rebuilt too, I'm committed to it. So might as well upgrade the rods with heim joint shift rods while I'm at it. Have to think I will have covered all the bases to solve my shifting concerns....

Have you ever seen this Toploader Shift Linkage forum post?

After reading it I made a consolidated list of everything he used and stashed it in my project file for future use:

www.mcmaster.com
89955K56 Aircraft-Grade 4130 Alloy Steel (also AFCO 64001-30 Shifter Rod, 30 Inch Long @ Speedway Motors)

60645K141 Rods ends LH & RH

Here is what was ordered:
1 4749T132 1 Each Threaded Machine Zinc-pltd Stl Clevis Rod End, 3/8"-24 Left-hand Thread Size, 5/16" Id, 2-1/4"l

2 60645K142 1 Each High-strength Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Lh Male Shank, 3/8" Ball Id,1-1/4"l Thrd**

3 60645K141 2 Each High-strength Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Rh Male Shank,3/8" Ball Id,1-1/4" Thrdlg**

4 97245A679 1 Pack Zinc-plated Steel Clevis Pin, W/hairpin Cotter Pin, 3/8" Diameter, 1-1/4" Length

The throat of the clevis need to be ground back a tad at the lever will hit. Also the clevis come with a 5/16 hole if I recall and needs drilled out to 3/8 and don't forget to get some 3/8 clevis pins. Since I ran the reverse rod below the shift trunnion reverse is now to the left and down, not like stock and left and up.

**For heim joints, get the teflon lined ones made by Aurora as cheap ones eventually bind up. Go to Maeco, off the internet, Coleman Racing, etc.

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If you already have all this info and photos, LMK and I will remove it from your thread.
is that the factory Hurst Supershifter bracket? Is everyone using the supershifter these days vs. the comp plus?
 

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stumbled across a pic of what @silverblueBP was suggesting by using the stock rods...

759476
 

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The hurst 3913180 does not have a removable shift lever... I think the setup on the previous page uses a super shifter.
 
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