But,as Allen so succinctly pointed out, the dizzy isn’t red, just the cap. So.....you really didn’t clear that up very well. Dust it off Mark, you may have a taker.
My race is to build my car before I A. Die, B. Get so old I forget that I have a Mustang, C. Have so many mice and dirt daubers occupying the crevices of my “brand new” 32 year old 5.0 that it becomes a boat anchor and D.......there was a D.??, oh yeah, my C-clip rusted in two and fell off my engine stand axle and the wheel won’t stay on. So there’s that. So to summarize, you’re WAY ahead of me. I’m just circling waiting on cast off dizzys and forgotten camber plates. I’m pure opportunist.
But seriously, this c-clip thing is hampering my game. Now I’m going to have to carry the engine around on my Kubota until I can match up a Chinese c-clip. THAT’S where my build is currently....
But seriously, this c-clip thing is hampering my game. Now I’m going to have to carry the engine around on my Kubota until I can match up a Chinese c-clip. THAT’S where my build is currently....
Not a real issue Patrick, as Allen has called me on it, it’s yet another excuse. While working on my current priority, my barn, I sought to jumpstart my Mustang desire and moved my Northern Tool engine hoist with the failed hydraulic lift (froze during the winter maybe) so that I could roll my 5.0 out of the back corner on its Northern Tool engine stand and as I was rolling it out a wheel came off, courtesy of a rusted through c-clip. So i just shoved the wheel back on and rolled it back in the corner. So on top of either a new hydraulic o-ring or entire unit for my hoist I have to find a c-clip that I’m SURE is some standard size. I also failed to mention my Stihl Farm Boss chainsaw wouldn’t start yesterday either. Back to your regularly scheduled station now....
Oh yeah, I really have my heart set on a red c-clip...
@patrickstapler well, sign me up for a set! After losing my gears a couple times and having to realign my shifter with a drill bit on the side of the road, I replaced the springs at the base of the shifter which helps somewhat. Now that my Toploader is rebuilt too, I'm committed to it. So might as well upgrade the rods with heim joint shift rods while I'm at it. Have to think I will have covered all the bases to solve my shifting concerns....
The throat of the clevis need to be ground back a tad at the lever will hit. Also the clevis come with a 5/16 hole if I recall and needs drilled out to 3/8 and don't forget to get some 3/8 clevis pins. Since I ran the reverse rod below the shift trunnion reverse is now to the left and down, not like stock and left and up.
**For heim joints, get the teflon lined ones made by Aurora as cheap ones eventually bind up. Go to Maeco, off the internet, Coleman Racing, etc.
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