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1965 TRAKUPE Build Thread

80K views 887 replies 43 participants last post by  Turnall 
#1 ·
Finally got time to take some more pics and decided to go ahead and start a build thread. Since I have yet be successful at uploading decent quality pics from my phone or my camera that meet maximum file size limitations, I went ahead and created a Photobucket account. So I will post pics there for viewing. Now I will say my build may not progress as quickly as some here but my goal is to finish within two years and hopefully push that as close to one as possible.

Link to photobucket:

1965 TRAKUPE Photos by patrickstapler | Photobucket
 
#317 ·
Hey, hey , hey, HEY! Are you suggesting Patrick might do something unsafe? Red is the universal color of danger, probably why I’m so fearful of your distributor cap. I’m confident he will do the right thing. Of course, he seems like a man who might march to his own drum, so we’ll see. Enigmatic to be sure.....
 
#324 ·
You already ordered it, but I used all black cable, I just added 6" or so of Red heat shrink to each end for identification. That's how we do it in industry, except with colored electrical tape to mark the ends.
BTW, I know it's been debated before, but switching the Negative work just the same, that's how my Formula Ford is wired. IMO there is some pros to it, but you also have to check with sanctioning body rules if you're racing. As always, the devil is in the details, I don't have an alternator to deal with.
 
#462 ·
I use this method as well. A relay is installed to control the 12V switched power to the MSD 6AL (on the small gauge 6AL wire, not the large 12V battery cable on the 6AL). The main positive cable from the trunk-mounted battery kill switch holds this relay closed. When the kill switch is turned off, the relay opens and the MSD cannot get power.
 
#332 · (Edited)
Just some thoughts on ground vs. negative switching: It is better to switch on which ever your main lead is on. Your main could either be + or - , although industry standard is +, there is some older equipment that used + for the ground. There are some theoretical thoughts on which is better, one leaning one way, one the other.
If you switch on the ground though, that means that if you don't have battery cable pulled or fuse removed, you still have power going to the part. So every strand of wire, every piece of stray metal like a wrench has the potential of providing a full connection if you are working on it or if it flops around and touches the frame or anything touching the frame. Now you have the potential of an arc, blown circuit or unexpected movement of the part. However, you switch on the power lead, and when off, any inadvertent touches to the frame/ground doesn't matter.
 
#333 ·
Just some thoughts on ground vs. negative switching: It is better to switch on which ever your main lead is on. Your main could either be + or - , although industry standard is +, there is some older equipment that used + for the ground. There are some theoretical thoughts on which is better, one leaning one way, one the other.
If you switch on the ground though, that means that if you don't have battery cable pulled or fuse removed, you still have power going to the part. So every strand of wire, every piece of stray metal like a wrench has the potential of providing a full connection if you are working on it or if it flops around and touches the frame or anything touching the frame. Now you have the potential of an arc, blown circuit or unexpected movement of the part. However, you switch on the power lead, and when off, any inadvertent touches to the frame/ground doesn't matter.
That's not how it works. with no connection to the battery negative, there is no path for current flow. You can "ground" any hot wire, and it won't do anything. The frame, block, and chassis grounds are not the end of the circuit, they are effectively just convenient "wires" to use as a current path back to the battery ground cable and negative terminal.
 
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