Hello and welcome to my build thread. I am super excited to introduce my 1965 Mustang Fastback named the “Beast”. It was born as a 5R09A car, built in San Jose, A code 4 barrel V8, dark blue exterior paint, standard black interior, with a 2.80 open-end gearing. The door tag is missing, but it came with reverse lights and bumper guards as factory options. From what I can tell, it has always been a clutch car. So it isn’t anything particularly special or unique. The body is solid having some bodywork, but this car fell into my lap as a partial build along with a pile of boxes.
The Fastback does look like it has had a rough history. The RH quarter has been replaced and there is evidence of an accident within the rear wheel well. It looks like the RH front frame rail has some work done to it. The front LH apron looks to be an aftermarket stamping and the radiator support has been spliced in the middle. Both pieces are stich welded, so obviously they are not original. The floors have been replaced and are without seat risers. There are crunch marks near the back of the tunnel most likely from a broken driveshaft incident. Both doors have been distastefully cut for speakers and the dash has been chopped to accept a single DIN stereo. My Father and I have been restoring my Mother’s Fastback for about a year and we pulled the drivetrain to use in her car since I have other plans. I have slowly been gearing up to jump on this car organizing and purchasing missing parts.
The plan is to build a restomod, installing a Coyote 5.0, Tremec T56 transmission, Heidts Pro G front suspension, 13” Wilwood discs, splined sway bar, Heidts independent rear suspension, 3.89 True-Track, mini tubs, roll bar, air conditioning, power windows, LED lighting, amongst some other custom touches. A supercharger may be in the works, but that may be a bit too ambitious. I’d like to integrate some form of ODBII monitoring software, GPS, and bluetooth functionality for a tire pressure monitoring system. I’m sure the blueprint will change, but this is the starting point for my hobby build. Fortunately I have access to my Father’s tools and expertise. I work as a Cinematographer filming commercials, music videos, and features. I will take my time learning as I go and apply what I have learned in my other builds. Hopefully I can share some valuable knowledge or maybe you can learn from my mistakes. Either way, for me, it is all about having fun, sharing, and learning the craft. This build can also be followed on Instagram #1965mustangbeast. Thanks for following.
I purchased a pair of Recaros that were taken from a 2017 Mustang GT. It is my understanding that these seats are a factory option included with a performance package. I guess the owner didn’t like them and so I snatched them on Craigslist.
I plan to reinforce the floor with convertible reinforcement pans or by using a modified x brace. The seats have some aggressive side bolstering and are too wide to fit in convertibles because of their inner rocker panels. I probably will need to go with an aftermarket snug fit type headliner and tilt column. Only standard low profile door panels will fit. The seats are a tight fit and I realize they are not for everyone, but I think they will be perfect for this build.
Very interesting, I bought a 2017 GT at auction in Sept. 2017 which had been in a front end accident and had its interior removed. The car had come from SoCal as it was owned by Hertz rental in El Segundo. After buying the donor for my 1970 Mach 1 restomod, I was astounded by how much the interior parts were going for on Ebay. It was easy to understand why the car had been totaled out by the insurance company. I love the seats, someday I can only hope I can find something similar. The car looks like a great start, enjoy the journey.
Very interesting, I bought a 2017 GT at auction in Sept. 2017 which had been in a front end accident and had its interior removed. The car had come from SoCal as it was owned by Hertz rental in El Segundo. After buying the donor for my 1970 Mach 1 restomod, I was astounded by how much the interior parts were going for on Ebay. It was easy to understand why the car had been totaled out by the insurance company. I love the seats, someday I can only hope I can find something similar. The car looks like a great start, enjoy the journey.
Thanks. A friend with a 2017 GT350 had a pair of Recaros, but they were cloth. So when I saw this mint leather set, I knew I had to move quick. Ford Performance Parts does sell an aftermarket version, although for a premium. They are leather and I'm told that the only difference is the logo and stitching. Thanks
Mustangs to fear offers a one piece headliner that gives a couple extra inches of head room. Those seats are awesome, I sat in a gt350 with those seats this past week as I waited for my car to get done with a recall.
Mustangs to fear offers a one piece headliner that gives a couple extra inches of head room. Those seats are awesome, I sat in a gt350 with those seats this past week as I waited for my car to get done with a recall.
Thanks. Yes, I have a number of their products planned for this build. As you mentioned, I plan on installing their single piece headliner, roll bar, PCM box, mini tubs, front frame rail stiffeners, and Coyote pedal mounting plate. Their products are generally very good and are designed by someone who actually builds cars. I have a number of their products in my 66 convertible build and was pleased with everything.
You have got a pretty decent car to start with from the looks of it. For a restomod I think those seats are going to look great. I’m just trying to get back into my projects as life has got in my way for the past few years. It’s good to be back on vmf for some much needed ideas and motivation with like minded individuals 😎. Good luck with your project!
I purchased a pair of torque boxes from CJ Pony Parts to strengthen the chassis. These are the two-piece style made for 1967-68 Mustangs. 65-66 Convertible torque boxes are notched and have cutouts for the inner rockers, which coupes and fastback obviously do not have from the factory. The units that I ordered also include gussets.
I was able to test fit the RH upper torque box plate with very minimal trimming. The top plate has a lip that is designed to extend up through the floor. After some web research, I saw that some people were cutting the lip off completely or inverting downward. I chose to invert the lip for added strength, as I didn’t want to slot or cut my floor. Not the easiest thing to do when I don’t have the proper machinery, but hey anything is nearly possible with a little heat, hammer, and bench vise.
Test fitting the RH lower torque box piece. Repeated on the LH side. Painted with Eastwood weld through primer. Mustangs To Fear Mini Tubs pictured.
I’m digging those mustang body wheels....little pricey for what they are but I may pick those up myself. Thanks for the link. Everything is looking good you’re making good progress looking forward to seeing your build come to life. I like that you found a couple of “lucky pennies” that’s 2 cents worth.
Since my Fastback has had a number of repairs made to it, I took measurements from three other 65-66 cars for reference. I used a tape measure but also used a Hilti laser range meter with accuracy of 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch.
I used a 65 Dearborn convertible as my primary reference vehicle.
42 7/8” is my measured distance from the edge of the fender apron extension to the radiator support fender J clip. Distance between front frame rails is 27 5/8” with about 1/8” variance between vehicles.
I began by removing the RH aprons and tower using a spot weld drill and air chisel. My experience doing metal work is very limited having only replaced the floor and seat risers in my Mom’s Fastback. This is the first time that I have removed towers and aprons, so I was a bit nervous.
I’m committed now!
I test fit the RH single piece apron duplicating my laser measurements. My RH apron requires some minor cutting to lay flush against the stock radiator support. I will cut once the replacement Dynacorn radiator support is in place.
I cleaned the firewall with a 3M Scotch-Brite cleaning disc. You can see the previous repair work that was made to the outside of the RH frame rail and lower firewall. Painted with Eastwood weld through etching primer.
Prepped the RH single piece apron and made another test fit prior to welding in place. I cleaned up my welds with a flat flap disc.
Great question. I went with single piece aprons for a number of reasons. The LH front apron was replaced with an aftermarket panel sometime in the pastry a previous owner and was improperly stitch welded into place. It was also improperly overlapping the rear apron above the shock tower when it should have been sandwiched under the rear apron. You might be able to see in some of the photographs, but the radiator support was spliced down the middle and LH half of it was replaced. The top hinge threads on both the RH and LH rear aprons had been cut out. The RH rear apron also had some significant dents. So there were a few things that I felt needed to be addressed if the existing aprons were to be used. I did not have access to a plasma cutter, so I felt removing the apron along-with the towers was probably the easiest way to go Also, I really like the clean aesthetic of these single piece aprons and they provide a seamless surface for the shock tower delete panels.
My Dad and I built this car 18 years ago when I was in high school. We built it road race style. Built 302, C4 trans, all the frame stiffeners available, disc brakes, 17” wheels, and geared to get out of the corners. Speaking of corners, this thing will corner with any sports car out there. The...
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So, as some of you may remember from my previous posts, about a year and a half ago I took a week off work to do a H/C/I (Heads, Cam, and Intake) swap on the 289 in my newly acquired, “fully restored” $38,000 eBay special 1968 Mustang Fastback that I had just purchased from a dirtbag named Bruce...
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