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Discussion Starter #81
Heidts Inner Fender Covers



The bolt in tower covers that come with the Heidts Pro G front IFS need to be trimmed around the saddles and upper control arms. They lay nice and flush against the single piece aprons. I will probably upgrade the hardware with billet fasteners.

 

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Discussion Starter #82
Mini Tubs



It is my understanding that the widest profile tire that can be run in the back of a stock 65-66 Mustang is around a 245/45/17? There are a handful of mini tubs options on the market, but I decided to go with the Mustangs To Fear mini tubs since they allow the use of stock interior panels and unmodified back seat. With this kit, I should have no problem running a 275 and maybe even a 285 with rolled fender lips, which is where I’d like to be without flaring. So with that said, it was baptism by fire with this modification.



I stripped the wheel wells using a carbon stripper disc. They cleaned up nicely without running into any rust. The RH rear quarter panel had been replaced and the outer part of the wheel well had some collision scars. Prior to cutting, I took measurements of the factory RH back seat latch bracket. The MTF kit comes with its own bracket that must be installed.



Mustangs To Fear Mini-Tub Installation Video

I followed the MTF video, which was very helpful as to where I could begin making cuts. I took my time grinding away until I was pleased with the fit while checking clearance between the interior panels. As demonstrated in their video, I found that I had to trim all the way up to the frame rail for the rear inner corner of my 65 Mustang. I used the outer most stamping step within the wheel well as my reference moving towards the front of the wheel well.





I literally pushed the min tubs to 1/16 of an inch within the interior panels. The following photograph shows the clearance with an unmodified wheel well.





Moving onto the LH side, I was able to install the second mini tub in a third of the time.









I ended up trimming off around 1 inch from the bottom of the min tubs so that they only extended about 1/4 of an inch bellow the floor. This should provide a nice seam for sealer and keeping the frame rail predominantly visible.



I still have a few small areas that I’d like to touch up with additional stitch welds, but I am very pleased with the install. It’s a lot of work to gain around 1.5 inches in tire clearance width, but it will be worth it.



 

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Nice work on the mini-tubs. I can see why you would want them on your car as I did not realize you were limited to about a 245 on a 65-66. On my 1970 Mach 1, with the leaf springs removed and replaced with the TCP 4-link, I have been able to fit a 285 on a 18x10 wheel and will look at a 295 on the next set of tires. As much as I would have liked a 305 or 315 in the rear, the extra work to min-tub the car was not in the stars. Like you, I wanted to keep the fold down rear seat which was part of my reasoning to not mini-tub the rear. MTF has said that their mini-tubs will not interfere with the fold down rear seat, but I did not want to test it.

Keep up the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
65 to 66 Dash Bezel Modifications



My 65 Mustang came with standard interior and it was not a GT, so it came with the Falcon style instrument bezel. The previous owner crammed a 66-style instrument bezel into the car, so I had to straighten out the dash a little. There are subtle differences between a 65 and 66 dash and it seems like the majority of the aftermarket instrument bezels are made for the 66-style bezel mounting. Both 65-66 bezels have four identical mounting points along the top of the bezel. However, on a 65 bezel, the two lower mounting screws thread in horizontally from the front, while on a 66 car the lower screws thread in vertically from the bottom. Like the previous owner, I’m sure most people don’t make the minor, but appropriate modification if they make the bezel swap. Details.

65 Falcon style dash


66 5 gauge instrument dash


65 lower mounting tab


Modified to replicate 66. Two little cuts and bend the tab forward.


A 66 5-gauge instrument cluster also requires a curved notch above the steering wheel, but my particular aftermarket bezel does not require this modification. There are other differences between a 65 and 66 dash, including the dash pad, 65 style dash pad trim, and speaker grill mounts, but I plan to keep everything else correct for 65.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Roll Bar

I installed and fitted the Mustangs To Fear two-point roll bar. It is a bolt in unit, so obviously it is more for aesthetics and ideal for mounting a shoulder seat belt or harness. About 1/3 of an inch of trimming was required to fit my 65, which is expected for early models. Otherwise, I pretty much followed the MTF installation video. The fastback rear lower interior quarter panels will need to be notched to accommodate the roll bar.






I am considering adding reinforcement kicker bracing, but figure I better test fit my 2017 Mustang GT leather Recaros for clearance. My car has the seat risers removed and I reinforced the floor pan with Spintech sub frame connectors. I had to modify and trim the factory Recaro seat tracks in a few areas. It looks like I will need to fab spacers to level the seat because of the curve in the factory floor pan. There is currently about 2/3/4 inches of distance between the headrest and ceiling. I plan to use an aftermarket single piece headliner, so should be good height wise. I pushed the seats inward as much as possible up against the tunnel, which provides a centerline to the steering column and about 2 inches of gap to the interior door skins. The interior seems like it gets really small with these seats, but so far fitment looks promising.



 

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I installed and fitted the Mustangs To Fear two-point roll bar. It is a bolt in unit, so obviously it is more for aesthetics and ideal for mounting a shoulder seat belt or harness. About 1/3 of an inch of trimming was required to fit my 65, which is expected for early models. Otherwise, I pretty much followed the MTF installation video. The fastback rear lower interior quarter panels will need to be notched to accommodate the roll bar.
I know you follow my build so you probably saw where I added the additional bracing for added strength myself. Ordered the extra pipe and extra brackets from Rich. Still not as strong as full triangulation but definitely much stronger than the roof alone in a roll over. And, I figure it will add quite a bit of body strengthening. I intend to weld the joints once I am 100% sure I won't need to remove it. Tricky part on the down tubes was missing the light tunnels.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I know you follow my build so you probably saw where I added the additional bracing for added strength myself. Ordered the extra pipe and extra brackets from Rich. Still not as strong as full triangulation but definitely much stronger than the roof alone in a roll over. And, I figure it will add quite a bit of body strengthening. I intend to weld the joints once I am 100% sure I won't need to remove it. Tricky part on the down tubes was missing the light tunnels.
Yeah, I like what you did and may do the same. I ordered the additional bracing, but making sure things fit. Great work on your car!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Test Fitting Dash Components and Strategizing Interior

With the seats temporarily in place, I figure I might as well have a little fun pre visualizing the dash layout and test fitting some interior components.



I have a billet aluminum 6-gauge bezel on order with Auto Meter gauges. Pictured is a factory 5-gauge bezel for temporary placement for fuel level, voltage, 10k tachometer, speed, oil pressure, and water temperature. I am using an Ididit tilt GM style column with a billet aluminum-mounting bracket. I’m really impressed with the fit and quality of the Ford original tooling 65-dash pad made by Dashes Direct. Factory pedal box is bolted in place, but it will need to be modified for mounting the Coyote clutch pedal position switches that communicate with the PCM. The dash pod is made by MP Products and can house three 2 1/16” gauges. I’m thinking fuel pressure, oil pressure, and am considering boost. I mocked in a Lexus style push button start and stop ignition. I have another Mustangs To Fear center console on order since this one is for my convertible. I’m going with the brushed aluminum theme with charcoal leather for this interior.



Clearance for the console between the seats looks good. The console houses buttons that will control power windows, door locks, heated seats, and I have two spare buttons if I want to add something like exhaust cutouts. Also considering housing the Dakota digital climate control system on the console. I am working on acquiring some OEM leather upholstery to match the Recaros for the fastback rear seat.



The console compartment houses a USB plug for iPhone storage, which will then interface directly with a CarPlay compatible stereo.



The dash has already been cut to single din dimensions by a previous owner, so I might as well go with the modification since I’d like to have a 9”x6” touchscreen hovering between the instrument bezel and glove box. This touchscreen will control stereo, navigation, Bluetooth phone control, and CarPlay functionality. On the console, bellow the dash, I’d like to mount a small tablet, a second touchscreen, something like an ipad mini that will be able to interface with the OBD for digital gauges or GPS based apps. The tablet could also possibly interface with the CanBus to control just about anything electric on the car. In regards to the dash, I’m thinking of smoothing over the heater controls. The ashtray will also be removed since nobody will ever smoke in this car and it will help free up some valuable space behind the dash. I’m not a big fan of the aftermarket under dash louvers. They are made of plastic, and half the cars at a show typically have the same ones. I mocked up some cardboard sized AC vents as I am considering installing in dash vents. They would be a lot of work, but I like the idea of creating something unique.



Lot’s to figure out and explore, but the pieces of the puzzle are slowly coming together. As always, some things will more than likely change through trial and error. I like the idea of having a balance between analog and digital in this restomod. My goal is to preserve some of the Ford OEM vintage design language while integrating some modern technology.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Resuming The Build With Epoxy

It has been a busy spring and summer with work. I wrapped on a film in Tampa and recently had another project premiere on Netflix last month. I’m looking forward to resuming and putting some time into my car. Boxes of joy arrived from Heidts my first week back! Perfect timing.

1964.5-1970 Heidts Pro G High Horsepower IRS suspension kit



Prior to unboxing, I wanted to finish making a pass smoothing the engine bay with filler and block sanding the capped cowl vents. Next, I sealed the engine bay, interior, trunk, and underside with a coat of epoxy primer PPG DPV50LV.







I finished spraying the engine bay with my third cup of epoxy, which I probably mixed a little too thick as I could have used a little more reducer D8774. I addressed the areas with a light scuff and sanding. My spraying technique could have been better, but I’m learning and it looks decent.

I moved onto unboxing the Pro G IRS, assembling some of the components. I lightly scuffed, cleaned, and applied Metal Prep to the bare steel parts to eliminate and prevent any flash rust.

CV Joint Axle



Lower Control Arms, Upper Link, and Rear Tie Bar



Outer Bearing Assemblies



Rear End Housing



Bolt In Top Cross Member, Forward Struts, and Bolt-In Frame Rail Saddles



Assembling Rotor and Aluminum Hubs assembly with thread locker



Coil Over Shocks Assembled



Beginning mock up assembly and test fit following the instructions.

IRM-101 Installation Instructions

 

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Discussion Starter #91
Heidts Pro G Independent Rear Suspension Test Fit



The rear suspension is temporarily assembled. Everything will eventually come out for powder coat and paint. The installation was surprisingly simple as the instructions are thorough. Ultimately, I only had to make two customizations. I cut and added rubber gaskets to better seal the 3” trunk holes that allow access to the cross member and shock hardware. It is a really minor thing, but I think gaskets should be included with the kit to better seal against exhaust fumes and moisture.





Since I installed Spintech subframe connectors on my car, I had to fabricate and customize the rear tie bar brackets. Welding upside down has its challenges, but should be plenty strong.









I still need to install the parking brake kit, but I should be able to start plumbing brake and gas lines. It’s also a good time for me to take some measurements for possible tire and rim combinations. I also got a jump on applying SEM-29392 black 1k seam sealer.



Moving onto dropping in the Coyote and T56



 

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WOW...that rear IRS looks awesome!
 
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this is amazing! great work! I cant wait to see how you do the seat brackets....i have a pair of '15 Premium seats that i am going to be installing soon and have been pondering the best course of action to install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
WOW...that rear IRS looks awesome!
Thanks. I'm sure it will take multiple tweaking and alignments, but I'm looking forward to seeing how it handles. I have the 350 coil overs for now.

this is amazing! great work! I cant wait to see how you do the seat brackets....i have a pair of '15 Premium seats that i am going to be installing soon and have been pondering the best course of action to install them.
I will show more details in a future post, but I trimmed and modified the stock seat brackets and adapted some aluminum seat spacers of different heights that I purchased from Ebay. I may explore a few more mounting options, but I will be sure to provide more details of what worked for me once I'm confident I like the set up. It is definitely a tight squeeze.
 

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Thanks. I'm sure it will take multiple tweaking and alignments, but I'm looking forward to seeing how it handles. I have the 350 coil-overs for now.
It takes a lot of guts to buy a suspension system like that without any test drives.

At these price ranges, the manufactures need to have demo cars for customers to test drive.

They can publish all the testimonies they want, nothing compares to actually experience.
 

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@image98, what a great build! This is...wow.

@chris66, I suspect test rides are available from the bigger custom car builders. If you have a specific suspension brand in mind, I'd call them and ask if they have any installers or builders in your region.

I'd also bet you can show up at regional auto-cross or track meets, GoodGuys shows, and SEMA shows and get a chance at a quick test ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Research

It takes a lot of guts to buy a suspension system like that without any test drives.

At these price ranges, the manufactures need to have demo cars for customers to test drive.

They can publish all the testimonies they want, nothing compares to actually experience.
I agree with you one hundred percent and think you have a great idea. I'm not sure if the market is big enough for that kind of experience. However, I extensively research all of the products that I buy on the web, reading magazine articles, watching YouTube videos, reading forums like this one, and if possible I try to speak to owners whom have first hand experience with a particular product. One certainly takes a leap of faith investing in a brand and a particular product. Spec sheets can only tell us so much and there are thousands of variables associated with a restoration or restomod build. I'd like to think that I'm building something unique and thus there is nothing else on the road that I could use for comparison to even quantify or access a particular product for my specific application. You do make a great point.
 

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Very nice progress. I believe you will overtake me shortly. Summer months aren't too productive for me. I look forward to comparing final notes on our builds.
 

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Huntingky and Image98: Keep up the good work. You guys keep me motivated and progressing. It will be interesting to see which of us gets their Coyote build on the road first?

I hear you guys on taking a leap of faith on suspension choices. I appear to be the only guy here who has done the TCP front clip. I am a bit intimidated with all the adjustments you can make to their suspension, but the tech support has been good so far.

For you guys that are using two different vendors at the front and rear for suspension, that complicates things a bit more. I really wanted to keep both ends from the same vendor as one hopes the one vendor has engineered their suspension to work together. Anyway, I will know in a year or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Huntingky and Image98: Keep up the good work. You guys keep me motivated and progressing. It will be interesting to see which of us gets their Coyote build on the road first?

I hear you guys on taking a leap of faith on suspension choices. I appear to be the only guy here who has done the TCP front clip. I am a bit intimidated with all the adjustments you can make to their suspension, but the tech support has been good so far.

For you guys that are using two different vendors at the front and rear for suspension, that complicates things a bit more. I really wanted to keep both ends from the same vendor as one hopes the one vendor has engineered their suspension to work together. Anyway, I will know in a year or two.
It has definitely been a learning experience and there have been challenges every step of the way. I love the fact that platforms like these forums exist so that we can share our experiences, knowledge, and mistakes. Sometimes it can be overwhelming for sure, but the build has been a ton of fun. If it was easy, it wouldn't be worth the challenge. I have been away for some time, but I look forward to checking up on the other builds.

I have both Heidts front and rear suspensions on this car. The Pro G Gen II front clip and the Pro G IRS I'm told were designed to be a complete ballanced system. Heidts customer service has been really stellar as well. Customer service is half the battle with these things. I will have to check out your TCP system as I hear good things. Best of luck to everyone and it's not a race yet. We can only race once the cars are built and on the track.
 
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