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Discussion Starter #101
Coyote and T56 Test Fit



My Father and I hoisted in the Coyote and the T56 into the Fastback. We used a lift bracket on the LH side and strapped to the RH header because of limited room between the engine block and the firewall. Removing the intake manifold also helps. Everything went in surprisingly smooth or with very little tweaking with the Heidts Pro G Gen II K member MTF-201 and Coyote motor mounts MM-175. I slotted the Heidts transmission cross member TM-010 at the center mount by 1/16 of an inch to move the transmission away from the RH side of the tunnel, which probably wasn’t necessary, but I wanted to make a little more room. I also had to grind down three tabs on the RH side of the T56 adjacent to the reverse lights plug. I hear this is common in T56 installs on early Mustangs with stock tunnels.

RH side



Left side




Heidts has the transmission hug the RH of the tunnel since the IRS pumkin also sits towards the RH side of the tunnel in the back. I had to cut and notch the shift hole, but other than that it’s a nice snug fit. After the engine and transmission were bolted in, I installed the LH header. The engine sits nice and centered and there’s about equal clearance between the Heidts headers HR-MU-FC and each frame rail.

RH header





LH header





I bolted up a Powermaster XS 9532 Torque Starter. The bellhousing is a Quicktime RM-8080. I have a Kevlar clutch from Modern Driveline.



In this last photo, you can see why the transmission hugs the RH side of the tunnel. I might have to cut the RH tunnel support, but clearance looks good for now. In an earlier post, I notched and removed the top and center of the factory tunnel support, which is required with this suspension. There is about a ¼ of an inch tween the top of the T56 and the factory tunnel. Lot’s to do, but so far so good. I’ am loving the view.

 

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Looks good, I wish my initial fit checks went so easily. I complicated my fitment by using the 6R80 AT, it is a monster and would not come close to fitting without major trans tunnel surgery. Keep going but you are going to find that engine compartment fills up quickly. I am hoping for my second set of headers from Ultimate Headers to be sent out soon. Once I have headers I am happy with, I can work more on the steering and continue on the plumbing. We decided to cut the fireware area behind the intake out too. By removing the forward step in the FW, we gained about 2 inches of depth which really helps with fitting the CMCC valves and the heater hose plumbing.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Looks good, I wish my initial fit checks went so easily. I complicated my fitment by using the 6R80 AT, it is a monster and would not come close to fitting without major trans tunnel surgery. Keep going but you are going to find that engine compartment fills up quickly. I am hoping for my second set of headers from Ultimate Headers to be sent out soon. Once I have headers I am happy with, I can work more on the steering and continue on the plumbing. We decided to cut the fireware area behind the intake out too. By removing the forward step in the FW, we gained about 2 inches of depth which really helps with fitting the CMCC valves and the heater hose plumbing.

Alan
I checked out your build thread and thanks for all the detailed info. Impressive car. Yeah, that 6R80 is a beast. I'll be following your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
E-Stopp Parking Brake, Fuel Lines, and Dash Bezel

I installed the ProG-IRS Heidts parking brake kit brackets and Wilwood brake calipers (120-12070-BK).





With the T56, Coyote, and IRS forward struts, I didn’t see how the stock parking brake levers and components would fit. One option was to install a handbrake unit above the tunnel alongside the driver seat. However, I liked the idea of going with an electronic solution, so I purchased the E-Stopp push button emergency brake kit. I’ve seen a few other build with this unit mounted alongside sub frame connectors or within the trunk above the gas tank.





https://www.estopp.com

I explored a few options, but the simplest and cleanest install for my build was to mount the E-Stopp motor centered within the tunnel. Clearance looked good as long as the driveline was less than 3.75” in diameter. The parking brake cables are about 5ft in length, so they needed be cut. I had to get a little creative using angled washers, grade 8 bolts, lock nuts, lock washers, and rubber bushings to accommodate the curve of the tunnel. This way I should be able to remove and service the E-Stopp motor in the future without removing anything from the interior. I temporarily wired the unit to its electronic control box and battery for testing. Everything works as designed. When the E-Stopp button is pressed, the unit beeps repeatedly as the motors engage and locks the Wilwood parking brake calipers over about five seconds. While engaged, the E-Stopp button glows red, so I might hide the unit under the dash facing downward illuminating the pedals

I also installed an OEM dual exhaust steel rear brake line from Classic Tube. I dropped the IRS from the car, which is surprisingly easy to do with a lift since the unit is completely modular. I finished applying seam sealer under the car. I sleeved the frame rails for additional strength so that they do nut compress under the IRS saddles. I also welded on the rear brake line bracket.





In regards to fuel lines, I decided to go with AN6 Aeroquip AQP stainless steel braided hoses (FCA0620) and hose end swivel fittings. I checked with multiple sources that claimed AN6 should be sufficient for 750-1000 hp on a Coyote so running AN8 was unnecessary. I found these ½” stainless steel double line clamps on Ebay, which also includes sheet metal screws. The fuel tank is from Mustangs To Fear. It is a 22-gallon unit with an internal Aeromotive 340 pump and is equipped with NPT threads. The tank is really well built and I love the clean design. I installed an Aeromotive 12321 fuel filter and 12701 mounting bracket on the feed line.





The Eddie Motorsports billet aluminum bezel arrived. The edges and some of the machining was a bit rough, but it cleaned up nicely with a little time under the polishing wheel. Installed Autometer ES series gauges.
 

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Good progress, thanks for sharing. I like the E-Stopp e-parking brake as I have been thinking along the same lines. I removed the OEM brackets supporting the PB cables up front making a system like this a must have. My brake calipers are outboard, so more work needs to be done routing the cables. Also, in my case, I have 3 1/2" aluminum driveshaft, so I will likely have to mount my e-brake next to the subframe connectors. The MTF tank holds 2 gal more than my Aeromotive tank, otherwise very similar. So is your plan to remove everything underneath and coat the bottom with Lizard Skin or something similar? I am getting to the point that I want to media blast the bottom of my car and finish the bottom so that I can install many of the components permanently. I am not looking forward to blowing apart my build prior to body and paint, but it needs to be done.
 

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I installed the ProG-IRS Heidts parking brake kit brackets and Wilwood brake calipers (120-12070-BK).





With the T56, Coyote, and IRS forward struts, I didn’t see how the stock parking brake levers and components would fit. One option was to install a handbrake unit above the tunnel alongside the driver seat. However, I liked the idea of going with an electronic solution, so I purchased the E-Stopp push button emergency brake kit. I’ve seen a few other build with this unit mounted alongside sub frame connectors or within the trunk above the gas tank.





https://www.estopp.com

I explored a few options, but the simplest and cleanest install for my build was to mount the E-Stopp motor centered within the tunnel. Clearance looked good as long as the driveline was less than 3.75” in diameter. The parking brake cables are about 5ft in length, so they needed be cut. I had to get a little creative using angled washers, grade 8 bolts, lock nuts, lock washers, and rubber bushings to accommodate the curve of the tunnel. This way I should be able to remove and service the E-Stopp motor in the future without removing anything from the interior. I temporarily wired the unit to its electronic control box and battery for testing. Everything works as designed. When the E-Stopp button is pressed, the unit beeps repeatedly as the motors engage and locks the Wilwood parking brake calipers over about five seconds. While engaged, the E-Stopp button glows red, so I might hide the unit under the dash facing downward illuminating the pedals

I also installed an OEM dual exhaust steel rear brake line from Classic Tube. I dropped the IRS from the car, which is surprisingly easy to do with a lift since the unit is completely modular. I finished applying seam sealer under the car. I sleeved the frame rails for additional strength so that they do nut compress under the IRS saddles. I also welded on the rear brake line bracket.





In regards to fuel lines, I decided to go with AN6 Aeroquip AQP stainless steel braided hoses (FCA0620) and hose end swivel fittings. I checked with multiple sources that claimed AN6 should be sufficient for 750-1000 hp on a Coyote so running AN8 was unnecessary. I found these ½” stainless steel double line clamps on Ebay, which also includes sheet metal screws. The fuel tank is from Mustangs To Fear. It is a 22-gallon unit with an internal Aeromotive 340 pump and is equipped with NPT threads. The tank is really well built and I love the clean design. I installed an Aeromotive 12321 fuel filter and 12701 mounting bracket on the feed line.





The Eddie Motorsports billet aluminum bezel arrived. The edges and some of the machining was a bit rough, but it cleaned up nicely with a little time under the polishing wheel. Installed Autometer ES series gauges.
Nice...I didn't even know Autometer actually caught up to the times with modern full sweep, stepper motor, LED gauges...its about time
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Good progress, thanks for sharing. I like the E-Stopp e-parking brake as I have been thinking along the same lines. I removed the OEM brackets supporting the PB cables up front making a system like this a must have. My brake calipers are outboard, so more work needs to be done routing the cables. Also, in my case, I have 3 1/2" aluminum driveshaft, so I will likely have to mount my e-brake next to the subframe connectors. The MTF tank holds 2 gal more than my Aeromotive tank, otherwise very similar. So is your plan to remove everything underneath and coat the bottom with Lizard Skin or something similar? I am getting to the point that I want to media blast the bottom of my car and finish the bottom so that I can install many of the components permanently. I am not looking forward to blowing apart my build prior to body and paint, but it needs to be done.
Thanks. Learning and figuring things out as I go. Yes, I plan to disassemble and eventually undercoat with Raptor/Upol liner, but I still need to go through the engine bay and focus on the body. Disassembly isn't fun, but as we both know, test fitting is necessary as there always seem to be unplanned hurdles.
 

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Disassembly isn't fun, but as we both know, test fitting is necessary as there always seem to be unplanned hurdles.
Boy you're not kidding. My engine and trans will come out for, count'em, the thirteenth time. Headers going back for modification to clear the heads while the engine is out. Nothing the DS frame rail to allow for the alternator to be removed without lifting the engine off the mounts. This is purely a improvement for serviceability down the road. I will weld in the firewall patch for the engine and the patches for the blower motor and mounting bolt holes holes. I am planning on blowing my car apart this time next year to media blast, primer, plug remaining unused holes, and into body work. At that time the car will be taken down to a shell. Then the fun begins working from the chassis up.

Looks like you are ahead of me by at least a year. Keep up the progress as it motivates me too.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
IRS Brake Lines

With the IRS on the ground, I wrapped up working on the rear brake lines. The Wilwood calipers are 1/8 NPT 90 degree fitting to -3 AN male (WIL-220-13125). Wilwood -3 AN 10” braided stainless steel brake lines (220-8763) tie into a Russel Performance brake adapter fitting tee (R4241SS) bolted on, which goes from -3 AN to 1/8 NPT. I inserted a 90 degree brass fitting (ALL50125), 1/8 NPT male to female 3/8-24 inverted flare to a 12” steel brake line that I bent to a 90 degree. I welded on a Heidts brake hose mounting tab (LF-011) and threaded the steel line into a Wilwood brake line fitting and adapter (220-13124). I’m waiting on a 14” Wilwood Flexline with a 90-degree hose end angle to complete the system. The test fitting looks good and PTFE thread sealant will be used for final assembly on the NPT threads. I will eventually disassemble for powdercoat, so keeping things loose.

 

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Discussion Starter #110
QA1 Carbon Fiber Driveshaft



The driveshaft arrived. It is a custom ordered QA1 REV Series carbon fiber driveshaft (JJC-AC0320) with a diameter of 3.2”, Spicer 1350 U-Joints, and has a Sonnax 31 spline slip yoke. The build quality is superb and I’m told this unit can handle up to 2000 hp which is way more than what I will need.



Clearance looks good and the IRS pumpkin is fixed and doesn't travel with the suspension like a solid axle.





 

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Discussion Starter #113
Gold Metallic 1966 Coupe

A new Mustang joins the family. My Father and I were on our way to breakfast when we stopped into a weekend garage sale. Sitting in the driveway was a tired old 66 Mustang Coupe. I inquired about the car and the old couple that owned it said it was for sale, but that it hadn’t been on the road since 2012. They claim to have purchased the car from the original owner back in 1983.





The car was filthy, but upon inspection it looked to be a mostly stock and in surprisingly really good shape under a crusty layer of dirt. The body had numerous small areas of surface rust and the driver door had a dent. The rear frame rails, floor pans, floor supports, and front frame rails looked rust free. I didn’t see any visible traces of prior collisions. I saw dual exhaust and new shocks all around.

The door tag indicated that this California 66 was built in San Jose (Plant: R), 289 2v (Engine: C), Standard Bench (Body: 65C), Sauterne Gold Metallic (Z), Standard Black Bench Seat Interior (Trim:36), November 26, 1965 (Date: 26L) delivered to Los Angeles (DSO: 71), 2.80:1, Conventional (Axle: 6), C4 (Trans: 6). I wasn’t expecting a factory bench seat. Unfortunately it looked like the dash was hacked to accommodate a single DIN stereo, but otherwise it all looks to be factory original interior.





Under the hood, things also looked fairly stock. The smog thermactor pump was missing, but otherwise the car still had the factory CA emissions equipment. It is my understanding that 66 was the first year for this kind of smog equipment required on California cars. As an added bonus, the car had factory power steering and power drum brakes.



So I’m thinking this is a pretty cool find to come across such an intact and pristine specimen of a car. It did need some work and I already have my hands full with a couple of projects. I made an offer to the old couple planning to walk away. They said they needed the money to pay off their mortgage, but they declined. It was fun nevertheless. I left my number and my Father and I continued on our way to breakfast. Thirty minutes later, I get a call from the husband agreeing to my offer. So everybody wins. I get a crazy good deal and the old couple makes their last few mortgage payments with the funds. So my Father and I trailer the car home later that day, power wash, and attempt to start the car. Over the weekend, we drop in a new battery, check the fluids (ps, tranny, oil, coolant), and in Roadkill fashion (referencing the MotorTrend TV show), we hook up an external fuel container directly to the carburberator using a gravity feed. We check a couple of plugs and under the cap is a Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition, which is another bonus. So we give it a few cranks, and the autolite 2100 carburetor is leaking fuel all over the block and is mechanically unsafe. Conveniently, we have another 2100 that we swap from an engine that we pulled out of my Mom’s 65 Fastback. We make the swap and give the car a few more cranks. On the third attempt, the engine fires right up and runs surprisingly smooth. It’s obvious that the engine was rebuilt. Meanwhile, we let the engine fuel pump push out about thirteen gallons of old gas, which has that wonderful varnish aroma. We flush the tank with some fresh fuel and reconnect the factory fuel line. I check all of exterior lights and loosen up the crusty switches. A voltmeter confirms the alternator is charging. I put it in gear and the C4 is sluggish to shift so we check the fluids and feed the tranny with about three more quarts of Type F fluid. This time, the C4 shifts into gear immediately. I check the brakes and cautiously take the car for a spin. The car steers good and the tranny makes smooth shifts. It’s a driver!





I clean out the trunk and interior. The car has fresh Cobra radial tires, which are a bit oversized. The Cobra logo is hailarious. Lots of things need to be fixed. The coolant overflow has a leak. The horns, window regulators, and heater fans need some TLC. Nevertheless, I am very pleased with the deal.

After a clean up, my Dad and I figure its best to address the surface rust with a converter and use some rattle can paint to seal for the winter. We probably had a little too much fun with our custom paint job on the hood, but at least the rust has been halted. I don’t have any particular plans for this gold coupe at the moment, but it definitely helps having another factory-assembled car for reference. It eventually needs a proper mechanical inspection. That was a fun weekend adventure.



 

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That's awesome. Those cars are still out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Project Cars, Disassembled Suspension, Powdercoat

I hope everyone has been safe and in good health during the Covid-19 situation. 2020 has been a very interesting year. I removed the IRS suspension from the shell and sent the IRS along with the remaining IFS components to powdercoat. Loving it. I think I will send in the silver coils to be blacked out in the next batch of parts.





I pulled the Fastback from the lift and have since spent the last few months working on three other project cars. I picked up a 65 Mustang Convertible back in November of 2019 and it has since become my Southern California daily driver. I have made a number of upgrades including AC, electric fan, and 200 amp 3G alternator to deal with city traffic.



"Crusty Ivy" 1965 C Code Mustang Convertible

In early 2020, I picked up two 1966 Factory GT convertibles. The red car was a one-owner car that had been parked in a garage since 1986 living its entire life in San Francisco. It is a factory poppy red car with pony interior and C4. I saw the car at auction and just couldn’t pass up the deal.





Red 1966 GT Convertible

The white car was another car that was too good to pass up. It is a Factory 4 speed car with black pony interior and posi. The car went through a thorough restoration in the 90s and then sat for about 18 years, so it needed a mechanical refresh. I added air conditioning; rally pac, QA1 fully adjustable shocks, and repaired a handful of other other things to get it back on the road. The interior is near show quality and the paint is pretty good for a driver.





White 1966 GT Convertible

It’s fun having a few cars to drive on the side. I have gained a lot of knowledge and am confident that these two cars will remain solid investments. I also started to expand the garage this Spring and have been building a paint booth. So the Fastback is on hold for a beat as I wrap up construction this summer.
 

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I think you mentioned that it was easier to set the engine with the intake removed. As I am getting ready to start dropping mine in, I was a little curious about this. Don't want to pull intake on brand new engine without a good reason.

Also, I started wading through the posts looking for tips on fitting the alternator etc. Would it be too much to ask for a quick highlight of what you did or what you would do different? I had a guy strongly suggest the Vintage Front Runner system but pretty pricey.
 

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I too am curious what would make the engine easier to install without the intake, a small block ford is a pretty compact, tidy engine to drop in. I do know the intake is easier to install and get sealed, torqued etc with the engine out. Huntingky, check out CVF racing for alternator and other accessories. Nice stuff with different options to fit different budgets.
 
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I too am curious what would make the engine easier to install without the intake, a small block ford is a pretty compact, tidy engine to drop in.
Not talking SBF, talking the Coyote which is huge in comparison. [/QUOTE]
Huntingky, check out CVF racing for alternator and other accessories. Nice stuff with different options to fit different budgets.
Still pretty pricey AND not designed for compact installations. Looks like the alternator would be right against the frame rail on the Coyote in a 65.
 
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