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Aw fudge, never mind me and my silly comments. I forgot we're talking Coyote in this topic.
 
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I have a 2nd Gen Coyote removed a donor 2017 GT. So I have the Ford OEM accessory drive including the alternator and AC compressor. On my 70 Mach 1, there is a ton of room for the AC compressor, not so much for the alternator. About a 1/2" of space to the DS frame rail from the side of the alternator, so it fits, sort of. What I found is the OEM mounting for the alternator required the alternator to swing out to the side in order for it to be removed from the engine. I notched the DS frame rail to provide clearance so that the alternator could be removed/replaced without lifting the engine from its mounts. Other than making clearance for alternator removal, the Coyote fit fine after the requisite shock tower delete. I did reshape part of the firewall as I want to keep the CMCV actuators on the back of the intake. This mod also makes room for connecting up the stock coolant hose configuration with changes for the hose ends.
I found the OEM accessory setup to be pretty good on space utilization. I added a KRC PS pump with integral tank as well and the required additional pulley works well. This would be a whole different story if a supercharger as added, but not going there.
What is the distance between frame rails on the 65? I can compare to my 70 and let you know if there is a problem. However, my front clip from TCP is designed for use in 65 through 70 Mustangs, so it would appear the frame rail spacing is the same.
 

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I have a 2nd Gen Coyote removed a donor 2017 GT. So I have the Ford OEM accessory drive including the alternator and AC compressor. On my 70 Mach 1, there is a ton of room for the AC compressor, not so much for the alternator. About a 1/4" of space to the DS frame rail from the side of the alternator, so it fits, sort of. What I found is the OEM mounting for the alternator required the alternator to swing out to the side in order for it to be removed from the engine. I notched the DS frame rail to provide clearance so that the alternator could be removed/replaced without lifting the engine from its mounts. Other than making clearance for alternator removal, the Coyote fit fine after the requisite shock tower delete. I did reshape part of the firewall as I want to keep the CMCV actuators on the back of the intake. This mod also makes room for connecting up the stock coolant hose configuration with changes for the hose ends.
I found the OEM accessory setup to be pretty good on space utilization. I added a KRC PS pump with integral tank as well and the required additional pulley works well. This would be a whole different story if a supercharger as added, but not going there.
What is the distance between frame rails on the 65? I can compare to my 70 and let you know if there is a problem. However, my front clip from TCP is designed for use in 65 through 70 Mustangs, so it would appear the frame rail spacing is the same.
I will doublecheck but I believe it is a tight 28 inches. Any info is greatly appreciated.
 

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I will doublecheck but I believe it is a tight 28 inches. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Correct, a tight 28 inches, as measured 27 7/8 in my case. I corrected my post above, actually 1/2" to 5/8" of space from the edge of the alternator to the DS frame rail when viewed from underneath.
When viewed from above, see below, the edge of the alternator case appears to extend past the edge of the frame rail. So which accessory drive you decide to use and where it places the alternator is very important.
The OEM accessory drive mounts the alternator about 80% above the DS frame rail in my case with the TCP front clip and motor mounts. The placement of your Coyote could be higher or lower than my example. Given the accessory drive components including the starter, alternator and AC compressor are expensive, maybe look to find those components used or from a Mustang salvage yard. Over a crate engine, I saved big on getting my engine with transmission and accessories. As you know, the odds and ends add up quickly when bought new.
Also the location of the oil filter may require a remote oil filter adapter. In my case the PS rack location does not permit the OEM filter assembly. I used the Ford Racing remote hose adapter, a Moroso remote filter mount, and oil cooler built into the C&R radiator.

Alternator position viewed from above.


Alternator position viewed from the front


Alternator notch in the DS frame rail
 

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E-Stopp Parking Brake, Fuel Lines, and Dash Bezel

I installed the ProG-IRS Heidts parking brake kit brackets and Wilwood brake calipers (120-12070-BK).





With the T56, Coyote, and IRS forward struts, I didn’t see how the stock parking brake levers and components would fit. One option was to install a handbrake unit above the tunnel alongside the driver seat. However, I liked the idea of going with an electronic solution, so I purchased the E-Stopp push button emergency brake kit. I’ve seen a few other build with this unit mounted alongside sub frame connectors or within the trunk above the gas tank.





Emergency Brake | Paramount | E-Stopp Corporation

I explored a few options, but the simplest and cleanest install for my build was to mount the E-Stopp motor centered within the tunnel. Clearance looked good as long as the driveline was less than 3.75” in diameter. The parking brake cables are about 5ft in length, so they needed be cut. I had to get a little creative using angled washers, grade 8 bolts, lock nuts, lock washers, and rubber bushings to accommodate the curve of the tunnel. This way I should be able to remove and service the E-Stopp motor in the future without removing anything from the interior. I temporarily wired the unit to its electronic control box and battery for testing. Everything works as designed. When the E-Stopp button is pressed, the unit beeps repeatedly as the motors engage and locks the Wilwood parking brake calipers over about five seconds. While engaged, the E-Stopp button glows red, so I might hide the unit under the dash facing downward illuminating the pedals.
Thank you so much for posting this image98! I'm converting my 65 from C4 automatic to TKO600 and have been racking my brain on how to set up my E-brake. I didn't want to use the factory set up or install a release pedal under the dash. I contemplated the Fox body style E-brake, but really didn't want to put a lever in the middle of my transmission hump.

This fits the bill perfectly. This is another reason why I love this site. You guys have some GREAT ideas!!!
 
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