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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to replace an alternator in a 200 inline 6 1966 Coupe.

The current alternator does not have a radio suppressor on it. I'm looking to replace the alternator and get a new wire loom.

Question: Did the 1966 200 not come with a radio suppressor capacitor ?

These are the two wire looms that NPD has and neither loom seems to have the plug for the radio suppressor.

289 Alternator wire loom - part 14305-1G
200 Alternator wire loom - part 14305-1F

I'm using this YouTube video as reference:

Any help is greatly appreciated. I haven't worked much on the 200 inline 6 setups before. Thank you very much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My 67 200 didn't have one.

That said, there is a place to plug one in, but it's not at the alternator. There's an open plug (yellow maybe?) over at the voltage regulator for the capacitor.

That's how it is on my 67, and looking at the wiring diagram it looks like it might be the same on your 66.
Thank you for that diagram, that was well worth it!

So maybe the 65's had the option to plug it into the wire loom, even though NPD doesn't sell that wire loom? The video shows the guy clearly plugging it into the new wire loom for the alternator he had removed.
 

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Looking at the 65 Wiring Diagram it does look like it's a 65 thing to plug it in at the alternator.

I am not a 65 expert, but I'm guessing that doing that would use this harness from NPD since it looks like it's got the extra female connector right there for the capacitor to plug into.

Edit: That link looks like it's if you've got warning lights. This one seems to be the same thing for gauges.
 

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1965 had an external radio suppressor, mounted on top of the alternator and it plugged into the wiring harness. Starting in 1966, the alternator had an internal suppressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Looking at the 65 Wiring Diagram it does look like it's a 65 thing to plug it in at the alternator.

I am not a 65 expert, but I'm guessing that doing that would use this harness from NPD since it looks like it's got the extra female connector right there for the capacitor to plug into.

Edit: That link looks like it's if you've got warning lights. This one seems to be the same thing for gauges.
@Magnus - Thank you for your research. I have a '65 and that's why I was confused and asking the question. However, upon closer look of the harness that you linked to it seems that for the 1966 with Gauges this loom has the radio suppressor pigtail at the alternator connection. So, that seems confusing....

1965 had an external radio suppressor, mounted on top of the alternator and it plugged into the wiring harness. Starting in 1966, the alternator had an internal suppressor.
@ivygreen65 - Thank you for your information, this is good to know.

I will check the voltage regulator area to see if there is a radio suppressor or not. I need to check it anyways before ordering these parts to make sure the voltage regulator is not bad. I started this '66 it ran but no voltage (higher than 12.1v) was coming back to the battery. I pulled the negative cable and the car stalled out. My understanding is either (1) the alternator is bad or (2) the voltage regulator is bad or (3) both are bad.
 

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Looking to replace an alternator in a 200 inline 6 1966 Coupe.

The current alternator does not have a radio suppressor on it. I'm looking to replace the alternator and get a new wire loom.

Question: Did the 1966 200 not come with a radio suppressor capacitor ?

These are the two wire looms that NPD has and neither loom seems to have the plug for the radio suppressor.

289 Alternator wire loom - part 14305-1G
200 Alternator wire loom - part 14305-1F

I'm using this YouTube video as reference:

Any help is greatly appreciated. I haven't worked much on the 200 inline 6 setups before. Thank you very much!
I believe the radio suppressor for 1966 (18832-1B) plugs in near the voltage regulator with the pig tail for this coming from the headlight wiring harness (14290-2A). The suppressor should bolt to one of the voltage regulator bolts. Should be the same for 200 or 289 I believe.
 

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I believe the radio suppressor for 1966 (18832-1B) plugs in near the voltage regulator with the pig tail for this coming from the headlight wiring harness (14290-2A). The suppressor should bolt to one of the voltage regulator bolts. Should be the same for 200 or 289 I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I believe the radio suppressor for 1966 (18832-1B) plugs in near the voltage regulator with the pig tail for this coming from the headlight wiring harness (14290-2A). The suppressor should bolt to one of the voltage regulator bolts. Should be the same for 200 or 289 I believe.
So what it really comes down to is whether the headlight harness by the voltage regulator has the radio suppressor pigtail or not.

If it does, then I should order the alternator wire loom that DOES NOT have the radio suppressor pigtail
If it does not, then I should order the alternator wire loom that DOES have the radio suppressor pigtail

That way I'm not getting into a whole mess of changing out the headlight wire harness as well...

This is all really good information! I hope it helps other's in the future. I really enjoy learning these little nuances about the early pony cars.
 

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The 65 models have an RFI condenser (which suppresses radio static) mounted on top of the alternator. That condenser is internal starting in 1966. There is also a radio static suppressor mounted at the voltage regulator for both 65 & 66 models. They are physically different condensers - the 65 alternator condenser has a larger rounded mounting tab.

Alternator condenser
65 Mustang and Ford External Radio Interference Suppression Condensor at Alternator

Voltage regulator condenser
65 Mustang and Ford Radio Suppressor / Capacitor at Voltage Regulator C3SA-18832-A
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The 65 models have an RFI condenser (which suppresses radio static) mounted on top of the alternator. That condenser is internal starting in 1966. There is also a radio static suppressor mounted at the voltage regulator for both 65 & 66 models. They are physically different condensers - the 65 alternator condenser has a larger rounded mounting tab.

Alternator condenser
65 Mustang and Ford External Radio Interference Suppression Condensor at Alternator

Voltage regulator condenser
65 Mustang and Ford Radio Suppressor / Capacitor at Voltage Regulator C3SA-18832-A
Well this is opening up a whole can of worms as they say.

Above are wiring diagrams for '65 and '66 where the headlamp harness for '65 didn't have any plug for the Radio Suppressor/Capacitor that your 2nd link shows.

The '66 it seems never had a radio suppressor at the alternator, the alternator had this part moved inside. But, how can one tell if the remanufactured or even new alternators have the part inside or require it on the outside?


For the 1965 (and for my educational purposes) mustangs was it a case of changing the design later in the year like other things were (water pump + timing cover comes to mind on a recent R&R)? In that the early 1965 mustangs had the radio suppressor at the alternator with later models moving it off of the alternator and to the voltage regulator (requiring different headlamp harness) OR were both suppressors used if they could be supported (one at the alternator and one at the voltage regulator)?

I haven't been able to check the 1966 to see if the headlamp harness can support the suppressor or not. I'm hoping to figure that out later today.

I'm not near my 1965 to even check my headlamp wiring harness. My 1965 is an early model with the falcon cluster and ALT warning/idiot lamp (no gauges). I do not have hazard flashers either. I do know that I have the suppressor on the alternator and hooked into the harness. But the post above from @ivygreen65 has me scratching my head a bit.

For the
 

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For wiring issues like this I always use West Coast Classic Cougar. There is an expert in Mustang and Cougar electrical systems that works part time and they seem to always have the part I need.
 

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One must understand the function of each condenser....

The condenser at the voltage regulator absorbs the voltage spikes caused by the mechanical points in the cut-out relay opening and closing. This condenser is more for preventing arcs across the contact points as it is for RFI.
The condenser at the alternator absorbs the "noise" generated as the alternator brushes move from one "blade" of the commutator to the next. This normally manifests itself as a high-pitched whine through the radio speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One must understand the function of each condenser....

The condenser at the voltage regulator absorbs the voltage spikes caused by the mechanical points in the cut-out relay opening and closing. This condenser is more for preventing arcs across the contact points as it is for RFI.
The condenser at the alternator absorbs the "noise" generated as the alternator brushes move from one "blade" of the commutator to the next. This normally manifests itself as a high-pitched whine through the radio speakers.
@Woodchuck

My question is this (based on the wiring diagrams and the other knowledge gained thus far), if the alternator for the '66 had the 'condenser' moved to the internals of the alternator, why would there be the need for the condenser at the voltage regulator. That almost seems like the early mustang I have (aka 1965) which has the suppressor/condenser at the alternator only is lacking the 2nd at the voltage regulator.... in essence, both areas should have had suppressor/condenser's. Maybe this was just figured out over the months of the early '65 mustangs and the '66 has them in both areas (re-designed alternator + voltage regulator).

I'm just trying to figure out the history and also the proper design for 1965 vs 1966.... with 1966 being the top priority right now.

Thank you!
 

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@Woodchuck

My question is this (based on the wiring diagrams and the other knowledge gained thus far), if the alternator for the '66 had the 'condenser' moved to the internals of the alternator, why would there be the need for the condenser at the voltage regulator. That almost seems like the early mustang I have (aka 1965) which has the suppressor/condenser at the alternator only is lacking the 2nd at the voltage regulator.... in essence, both areas should have had suppressor/condenser's. Maybe this was just figured out over the months of the early '65 mustangs and the '66 has them in both areas (re-designed alternator + voltage regulator).

I'm just trying to figure out the history and also the proper design for 1965 vs 1966.... with 1966 being the top priority right now.

Thank you!
This is what the internal capacitor for the 1G alternator looks like. I can't see where adding an additional external one would hurt anything.....
803541
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, I finally got out to get a picture of the harness and to test the voltage regulator. With the car running I pulled the voltage regulator plug and jumped 1 & 3. The alternator kicked on and the voltage at the battery was 13.7 volts. I didn't run this for longer than 10-12 seconds max.

What regulator does VMF suggest? I've seen some recommend a 'digital' one but not sure if this is it from NPD: VOLTAGE REGULATOR, ALTERNATOR - #10316-1C - National Parts Depot

Also, any idea how I can repair the female connector for the radio interference suppressor (see pic). Looks like it's corroded and filled in. Can I cut this wire and put a new plug in? Does anyone know where I could get a plug for the male end of the radio interference suppressor if this is the recommended way?

803863
 

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Is your regulator bad? You do know they can be adjusted, right? I'd use a Motorcraft or Standard Ignition Products solid-state replacement, with your original cover. You can get a new female bullet connector (.180 diameter) at places like NAPA or probably any decent auto parts store. I despise the typical insulated "crimp" connectors and cut off the insulation so I can crimp AND solder the new terminal and shrink tube the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is your regulator bad? You do know they can be adjusted, right? I'd use a Motorcraft or Standard Ignition Products solid-state replacement, with your original cover. You can get a new female bullet connector (.180 diameter) at places like NAPA or probably any decent auto parts store. I despise the typical insulated "crimp" connectors and cut off the insulation so I can crimp AND solder the new terminal and shrink tube the whole thing.
Is the regulator bad, well I take it to be when I jumped it And the alternator kicked in and provided 13.8 volts back to the battery.

Do you have a link or a part number for the female bullet connector? I've been looking and I see they make a voltage regulator wire harness that can be spliced in.
 

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Is the regulator bad, well I take it to be when I jumped it And the alternator kicked in and provided 13.8 volts back to the battery.

Do you have a link or a part number for the female bullet connector? I've been looking and I see they make a voltage regulator wire harness that can be spliced in.
 
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