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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning:

We have the proverbial 3 speed non synchronized transmission. One of the synchronizers broke and we bought a rebuild kit and are ready to put back together. We thought about upgrading to a 1967 3.03 3 speed transmission. I have read several threads on VMF, that the swap is relatively straight forward just using the 1966 bellhousing and keep the rest of the 1967 transmission parts can be used. We found a local 1967 3.03 transmission in alleged working order ($200). However we also found a 1968 3 speed several towns away, including a Hurst 3 speed shifter.

If we use the 1967 transmission, is it just as easy as a swapping out the 1966 bellhousing?

If we use the 1968 transmission, would it be the same as the 1967? I thought I read somewhere the clutch fork would different as the 1968 the clip changed. (I am not sure if it is date after 2/1968, but does indicate it was paired with a 302, so there is a small gap it could go either way) If post 2/1968, would this require a different throw out bearing to marry with the 1968 clutch fork?

I know the argument is to go to a T5, but we want to keep it simple and cheap as my son and I am restoring a 1965 currently.

Thank you,

Bob
 

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Sometimes my memory isn't what it should be but I think you'll need to use the '67 bellhousing, flywheel and clutch assembly. The transmission bolt patterns are different between the 2.77 and 3.03 and the bellhousing requires the 9-inch flywheel/clutch assembly.
 

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Good morning:

We have the proverbial 3 speed non synchronized transmission. One of the synchronizers broke and we bought a rebuild kit and are ready to put back together. We thought about upgrading to a 1967 3.03 3 speed transmission. I have read several threads on VMF, that the swap is relatively straight forward just using the 1966 bellhousing and keep the rest of the 1967 transmission parts can be used. We found a local 1967 3.03 transmission in alleged working order ($200). However we also found a 1968 3 speed several towns away, including a Hurst 3 speed shifter.

If we use the 1967 transmission, is it just as easy as a swapping out the 1966 bellhousing?

If we use the 1968 transmission, would it be the same as the 1967? I thought I read somewhere the clutch fork would different as the 1968 the clip changed. (I am not sure if it is date after 2/1968, but does indicate it was paired with a 302, so there is a small gap it could go either way) If post 2/1968, would this require a different throw out bearing to marry with the 1968 clutch fork?

I know the argument is to go to a T5, but we want to keep it simple and cheap as my son and I am restoring a 1965 currently.

Thank you,

Bob
It doesn't work that way. The 1966 I6 still used the 2.77 transmission. What you'd need for this is a 1966 or later I6 engine, with the dual bellhousing pattern. If you have a 1965 engine, it will have the small pattern only.

Of course, you could just use the 2.77, and learn to double-clutch. I frequently drive an old truck that has a non-synchronized 4-speed. No problem, all four gears. The 2.77 has a synchronizer on 2-3, which the truck doesn't have.

My first Mustang was a 1966 Sprint, with the 2.77. It was trashed, I rebuilt it and even towed a small racing boat all over the east coast with it. I did learn to double-clutch first gear.

Since you already have the transmission parts, your least expensive path forward is to repair and use the 2.77. And start saving for a T5, if you want to upgrade.

Basically, if your 1965 Mustang has the original engine, your chances of installing a 67-up bellhousing are about zero. Examine the back end of your engine to see if you have the dual pattern engine.
 

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I recently swapped a 3.03 3 speed into my 66 6 cylinder that only has provisions the small pattern bellhousing.

It wasn’t complicated once I figured out what exactly I needed.

If you have a dual pattern block, I’d use the 67 6 cylinder bellhousing, flywheel and clutch.

Happy to chat. PM me with your number if you’d like.

Brian
 

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I recently swapped a 3.03 3 speed into my 66 6 cylinder that only has provisions the small pattern bellhousing.

It wasn’t complicated once I figured out what exactly I needed.

If you have a dual pattern block, I’d use the 67 6 cylinder bellhousing, flywheel and clutch.

Happy to chat. PM me with your number if you’d like.

Brian
What bellhousing did you use? I'm only aware of an adapter no longer available, and an incredibly rare Econoline bellhousing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is definitely a 1966 with the dual bolt pattern. Rebuilt I6 motor last year and had the drive shaft balanced, also new yokes installed.
 

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It is definitely a 1966 with the dual bolt pattern. Rebuilt I6 motor last year and had the drive shaft balanced, also new yokes installed.
Well, that certainly keeps your options open. If you simply repair the trans you have, you'll be back on the road with a well-running car.

As for switching to the T5, you can keep the bellhousing you have now, even use the pressure plate and flywheel you have now, all you'd need is a disc to match the T5, and the T5 adapter plate for the bell.
 

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You need the 1967 bell housing, as it had the wide pattern.

You either need a hard to find 1967 yoke that fits the "V8" transmission and the smaller 6 cylinder drive shaft, or just just a V8 yoke and have the drive shaft modified to fit the V8 front yoke, which is a good time to have it rebalanced, as it probably has not been touched since it left the factory.

Price is high on the trans. The V8 style trans was used for many years, and is basically bulletproof. Most people are glad to get $50 for one, as it just sits in the garage forever.

I think I still have the correct bell and clutch fork in the garage, if you need it. That bell will also work with the 5 speed, with the adapter plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is where I am a little fuzzy. My understanding is the 6 cyl w/ M/T 1964-1968 takes a 25 spline yoke for the 3 and 4 speeds, or a 28 spline yoke for the 200, 260 and 289 engines equipped with an A/T.

There is a Type 14, 28 spline yoke that fits
1965-1965 MUSTANG 170, 200, C4
1967-1967 MUSTANG 200, 3.03 3SM/T
1968-1969 MUSTANG 200, 3SM/T
It has a ford # of C5ZZ-4841-B According to ACP will fit 1965 A/T or 1966-1969 M/T. So this would seem to be the animal for the yoke necessary.
 

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ok here is a thread on this swap;


lots of good information even though the tread is from 2011. also if you want to use the 3.03, check with modern driveline, they used to have an adapter for that swap, and they carry a lot of parts for various transmission swaps. imo the T5 is the best way to go as the parts are easy to get, reasonably priced, and you get two extra gears for better driveability.

a couple more links for you to check out;


 

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Discussion Starter #11
So it would seem for the 1967 I would need the tranny, bell housing, clutch fork and appropriate yoke to do the swap.

Would I have similar luck with the 1968 that comes with the hurst shifter, or are there other issues that come up with the 1968?


If I went with the T-5, could I use a 1986 Mustang GT T5. One is could be sourced locally as "running when pulled" for $250. A second one is also a 1986 Mustang GT with MGB, aftermarket V8 conversion for $600 (seems like that may not be as useful behind a I6).
 

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Your '66 i6 200 block should have both bolt patterns to accept either the earlier bell housing for a 8.5" clutch/flywheel, or the later '67 style that uses a 9" clutch/flywheel.

The 9" flywheel is reproduced, you can buy them brand new.

I actually have the correct bellhousing if you need- shoot me a PM if you're interested.
 

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So it would seem for the 1967 I would need the tranny, bell housing, clutch fork and appropriate yoke to do the swap.

Would I have similar luck with the 1968 that comes with the hurst shifter, or are there other issues that come up with the 1968?


If I went with the T-5, could I use a 1986 Mustang GT T5. One is could be sourced locally as "running when pulled" for $250. A second one is also a 1986 Mustang GT with MGB, aftermarket V8 conversion for $600 (seems like that may not be as useful behind a I6).
if you choose to go with the T5, then any T5 up through 93 will work just fine.
 

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This is where I am a little fuzzy. My understanding is the 6 cyl w/ M/T 1964-1968 takes a 25 spline yoke for the 3 and 4 speeds, or a 28 spline yoke for the 200, 260 and 289 engines equipped with an A/T.

There is a Type 14, 28 spline yoke that fits
1965-1965 MUSTANG 170, 200, C4
1967-1967 MUSTANG 200, 3.03 3SM/T
1968-1969 MUSTANG 200, 3SM/T
It has a ford # of C5ZZ-4841-B According to ACP will fit 1965 A/T or 1966-1969 M/T. So this would seem to be the animal for the yoke necessary.
That's a little "off". The 65-66 2.77 and Dagenham take the tiny Falcon-derived slip yoke. In 67-up, the 3.03 used on the 200 used the same 28 spline as the V8.

The 1965 170 C4 used a special yoke (C5ZZ-B), which had the large V8 style 28 splines, but connected to the tiny driveshaft U joint used on the 2.77. Great for installing T5 transmissions, allows use of the existing driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We have had some luck relative to parts I already have. We have the C60A-6394-C bell housing already. We also have the two bolt starter so we have a 9" clutch, and assuming the clutch fork should follow as being ok. The only item in question would be the correct yoke.

I have found a 1967 3.03 a little more reasonably priced, but I have also found as mentioned before a 1968 with a hurst shifter. Can the 1968 be used with the setup above, or are there changes that will only allow the 1967 without further modifications or part changes?

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
one wrinkle on the 1968 is it was behind a 302 if that make a difference. Sorry, not sure if I mentioned that. I think the transmission part # is RAT U. I know the other part # behind the 289 is either RAN S (S1) or RAN D (D1).
 

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one wrinkle on the 1968 is it was behind a 302 if that make a difference. Sorry, not sure if I mentioned that. I think the transmission part # is RAT U. I know the other part # behind the 289 is either RAN S (S1) or RAN D (D1).
makes no difference. all 3.03 3spd transmissions were the same set up. same gear ratios, etc. there were a few detail differences, like some had shift levers designed for a column shift, the early econolines had short tailshafts to accommodate the short wheelbase. some tailshafts did not have provision for a shifter, these were generally the column shift cars, but the tailshafts are interchangeable.

oh and early 3.03s had a tall narrow bolt pattern for the bell housing.
 

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What bellhousing did you use? I'm only aware of an adapter no longer available, and an incredibly rare Econoline bellhousing.
I used the Econoline Bell. I found one on eBay (there’s another one on there too!) for around $100. I had to use a newer clutch, but the rest bolted together. I used the 66 6 cylinder automatic rear yoke so I could retain my original driveshaft.

The swap was pretty straightforward once I found the right parts.
 
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