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Discussion Starter #1
So I posted other threads where replys provided me with great advice! But I want to begin using a single thread so I can easily find suggestions and solutions to my questions as I begin the process of the restomod of my Mustang. I've recieved advice on headliner, leaking exhaust/noisy lifter, getting it running, engine and tranny ID, etc. Thanks to those who assisted!!!!

Some facts about my car:
1966 coupe
289 swapped for a 302
3-speed swapped for a C4
Edlebrock performer manifold
Edlebrock 1406 carb
Stock exhaust manifolds
Pretty poor dual exhaust system that ends at the mufflers right under the back seat (cough, cough!!):loco:
15" US Mags
Probably 3-4 paint jobs :puke:
Pretty solid body with very little rust (floor pans are good except for bend where driver side floor board meets firewall - a little light showing through there)
Pieces missing (emblems, trim, antenna, etc.)
Interior pretty thrashed:frown2:

I'll probably add other items to the list as the thread progresses.

So here's a question to start this thread off...

The seats are not original seats (newly discovered and maybe why they don't function properly). When I redo interior I want to put original seats back in. I know you can get kits to rebuild them but where is the best source to get original frames that won't cost me an arm and a leg?. Also - I ordered the seat extenders from Rebal Racing. Will they work on non-original seats? Should I wait to use them on original seats that will eventually go in?
 

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Dimples
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For seats, you're going to have to check the usual places for used parts. Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, swap meets. Maybe ebay, but shipping would probably be tough on those.
 

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I have a driver's side seat bottom that I replaced last year. My understanding is that the PO swapped seats between my car and a K code that the prior PO had driven 'enthusiastically'.

The frame where the seatback adjuster screw was is a bit out of shape.

PM me if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I'm starting to make a list of stuff I'll need for the restomod. Its getting pretty long. :surprise: One question is the differential. According to the data plate I have code 6 rear axle, which is 2.80 open diff. Looking at different vendors I haven't been able to find ring and pinion gear sets for a 2.80. Are there vendors out there that I haven't found that offer this ring and pinion gear ratio set or do I need to go to a different ratio? Should I go to a different ratio? I don't plan on street racing it but I would like it to be a little quicker off the line but also with a decent RPM at cruising speed. All advice is welcomed and appreciated!! :wink:
 

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I have 3 cars with the 2.80 rear and even with that it would be nice to have overdrive at 70-plus mph. Since the 1st gear on the C4 is steep enough, they get off the line okay, pass well, cruise great and they don't kill me in gasoline $ .
I am thinking about swapping one to a 3.00:1 locker I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so...looking at suspension and steering replacement what is the consensus on Grab-a-Trac from Mustang Plus? I'm looking at their Front sus kit, spring kit, and steering kit. Combining those kits is the ceapest I could find. Any other thoughts and/or suggestions??
 

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so...looking at suspension and steering replacement what is the consensus on Grab-a-Trac from Mustang Plus? I'm looking at their Front sus kit, spring kit, and steering kit. Combining those kits is the ceapest I could find. Any other thoughts and/or suggestions??
I think the Grab-a-trak stuff is ok. I'm currently using their UCAs, LCAs, gt coils, and sway bar. They've probably been on for about ten years and probably 10k miles and I don't have any complaints with them. I don't know what brand of steering stuff they use but I went with Moog and Mcquay/Norris tie rod ends and a roller idler arm from opentracker when I rebuilt my steering. All together the suspension and steering stuff seem to work well.
 
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So I'm starting to make a list of stuff I'll need for the restomod. Its getting pretty long. :surprise: One question is the differential. According to the data plate I have code 6 rear axle, which is 2.80 open diff. Looking at different vendors I haven't been able to find ring and pinion gear sets for a 2.80. Are there vendors out there that I haven't found that offer this ring and pinion gear ratio set or do I need to go to a different ratio? Should I go to a different ratio? I don't plan on street racing it but I would like it to be a little quicker off the line but also with a decent RPM at cruising speed. All advice is welcomed and appreciated!! :wink:
So I posted other threads where replys provided me with great advice! But I want to begin using a single thread so I can easily find suggestions and solutions to my questions as I begin the process of the restomod of my Mustang. I've recieved advice on headliner, leaking exhaust/noisy lifter, getting it running, engine and tranny ID, etc. Thanks to those who assisted!!!!

Some facts about my car:
1966 coupe
289 swapped for a 302
3-speed swapped for a C4
Edlebrock performer manifold
Edlebrock 1406 carb
Stock exhaust manifolds
Pretty poor dual exhaust system that ends at the mufflers right under the back seat (cough, cough!!):loco:
15" US Mags
Probably 3-4 paint jobs :puke:
Pretty solid body with very little rust (floor pans are good except for bend where driver side floor board meets firewall - a little light showing through there)
Pieces missing (emblems, trim, antenna, etc.)
Interior pretty thrashed:frown2:

I'll probably add other items to the list as the thread progresses.

So here's a question to start this thread off...

The seats are not original seats (newly discovered and maybe why they don't function properly). When I redo interior I want to put original seats back in. I know you can get kits to rebuild them but where is the best source to get original frames that won't cost me an arm and a leg?. Also - I ordered the seat extenders from Rebal Racing. Will they work on non-original seats? Should I wait to use them on original seats that will eventually go in?

Before getting ahead of yourself...a couple of questions:

1. Why do you think the seats are not original? The rails have studs that fit through the floor right? I mean, I have 67 cougar seats...they arent original, but the frames are identical and the can be re-foamed and re-covered to be original. Your seats may not be original, but that is fine as far as seat extenders go if they use rails with studs...but chances are your seats dont work right because the tracks/rails are in need of restoration.

2. You say the car has a 302 swap...are you sure you even have the 6 cyl 7" rear end? 95% of the time people will swap to a 8" rear when swapping to a v8 because even a stock v8 will eat a 7" in no time at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Before getting ahead of yourself...a couple of questions:

2. You say the car has a 302 swap...are you sure you even have the 6 cyl 7" rear end? 95% of the time people will swap to a 8" rear when swapping to a v8 because even a stock v8 will eat a 7" in no time at all.
The axle code on the door tag is 6 which I believe is a 2.80 open. The car didn't come with a 6 cylinder, it originally came with a 289/2v. Is code 6 axle a 7" or 8" rear end????
 

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The axle code on the door tag is 6 which I believe is a 2.80 open. The car didn't come with a 6 cylinder, it originally came with a 289/2v. Is code 6 axle a 7" or 8" rear end????
my bad, I read your post incorrectly and thought you said 6 cylinder rear end...not code 6. As to your question...I myself would go with a lower ratio...maybe 3.23-ish or 3.55-ish...but that is also dependent on the use of the car. I plan on going 3.73-ish on mine(I say ish because I can never remember all the ratios for the different rear ends..I think you cant get 3.73 for an 8"...its something like 3.8x if I remember correctly), its a daily driver...but since I rarely drive on the highway anymore and will have a T5 with a good overdrive ratio, I can get away with that without absolutely killing fuel mileage.
 

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Suspension...do you intend to stick to straight lines or are you a spirited corner carver? If you stick with straight lines, stock UCA/LCA with roller perch and pivots along with GT spec springs is fine. I would also do yourself / alignment guy a favor and get adjustable strut rods. It makes adjusting castor easy.
If you're the former you may get a little more benefit from a coil over conversion. I have SoT's stock style tubular roller front suspension and while it does a great job, I do wish i'd spent the extra money on the coilovers. In fact, the front suspension in my coupe will get moved to my convertible and i'll be putting the coilover in the coupe this winter. Two different machines with two very different purposes.

For your trans / driveline questions...are you married to the C4 or do you plan to upgrade to an AOD or manual. If you stick with the c4, I'd go 3.23 depending on your tire size. It wont bump your RPM's much at cruising and will get you a little more scoot. You might also consider a traclok or trutrac. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
This is also the part where someone asks about your engine combination but, in looking at it from a high level, you're not going for balls out performance. Now, if you decide to rebuild the engine for more juice; gearing, transmission, tire size will play more of a roll. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
Verify if you have an 8" btw. If you do not, it's time to upgrade that. Either way, you can find 8.8's in salvage yards pretty close to run ready...might even come with discs.

You didnt mention what you intend to do about the chassis. I would add torque boxes to the front and subframe connectors. Cheap, fairly easy, and get a noticeable difference in chassis feel.

Lastly, have you thought about brakes? Disc brakes > drums. You can get a pretty reasonably priced kit from CSRP. Dont worry about discs on the rear.

Doing the above would make a pretty fun little driver imo and not 'break the bank'...depending on the size of the bank that is.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Suspension...do you intend to stick to straight lines or are you a spirited corner carver? If you stick with straight lines, stock UCA/LCA with roller perch and pivots along with GT spec springs is fine. I would also do yourself / alignment guy a favor and get adjustable strut rods. It makes adjusting castor easy.
If you're the former you may get a little more benefit from a coil over conversion. I have SoT's stock style tubular roller front suspension and while it does a great job, I do wish i'd spent the extra money on the coilovers. In fact, the front suspension in my coupe will get moved to my convertible and i'll be putting the coilover in the coupe this winter. Two different machines with two very different purposes.

For your trans / driveline questions...are you married to the C4 or do you plan to upgrade to an AOD or manual. If you stick with the c4, I'd go 3.23 depending on your tire size. It wont bump your RPM's much at cruising and will get you a little more scoot. You might also consider a traclok or trutrac. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
This is also the part where someone asks about your engine combination but, in looking at it from a high level, you're not going for balls out performance. Now, if you decide to rebuild the engine for more juice; gearing, transmission, tire size will play more of a roll. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
Verify if you have an 8" btw. If you do not, it's time to upgrade that. Either way, you can find 8.8's in salvage yards pretty close to run ready...might even come with discs.

You didnt mention what you intend to do about the chassis. I would add torque boxes to the front and subframe connectors. Cheap, fairly easy, and get a noticeable difference in chassis feel.

Lastly, have you thought about brakes? Disc brakes > drums. You can get a pretty reasonably priced kit from CSRP. Dont worry about discs on the rear.

Doing the above would make a pretty fun little driver imo and not 'break the bank'...depending on the size of the bank that is.

Excuse my ignorance, being new to the Mustang world, but am I to assume AOD means "automatic overdrive" or does it mean something else? How can I verify if my diff is an 8" or 7". I don't see a tag on the axle (i'll take a closer look today). Torque boxes and subframe connectors sound good - I can see where to order them but what about installation (I'm not a welder). I have disc in the front already but it is using the original MC. Is there something I can add to the MC to increase efficiency?
 

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Excuse my ignorance, being new to the Mustang world, but am I to assume AOD means "automatic overdrive" or does it mean something else? How can I verify if my diff is an 8" or 7". I don't see a tag on the axle (i'll take a closer look today). Torque boxes and subframe connectors sound good - I can see where to order them but what about installation (I'm not a welder). I have disc in the front already but it is using the original MC. Is there something I can add to the MC to increase efficiency?
Nothing to excuse at all! We all started somewhere.
The AOD is a later model trans that has overdrive. Really helps bring the RPM's down at freeway speeds over the c4 which is a 1:1 gear map at the top gear.
If memory serves, there are 2 dimples (one on the left, one on the right) on the rear housing if it's an 8.

Subframe connectors come in either bolt or weld in i think. Weld in would be better. The torqueboxes would need welded but, imo, they are well worth the cost. I do not know what a shop would charge to put them in but, if you have someone do it, weld in the subframe connectors as well.

For your mastercylinder, there's not really anything to increase the efficiency outside of messing with bores and strokes which i do not recommend. If you have a single bowl MC, I would recommend switching it to a dual bowl. With the single bowl, if you have a leak and run out of fluid you also run out of brakes. With the dual bowl, if you loose rear brakes the fronts would still work and vice versa.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nothing to excuse at all! We all started somewhere.
The AOD is a later model trans that has overdrive. Really helps bring the RPM's down at freeway speeds over the c4 which is a 1:1 gear map at the top gear.
If memory serves, there are 2 dimples (one on the left, one on the right) on the rear housing if it's an 8.

Subframe connectors come in either bolt or weld in i think. Weld in would be better. The torqueboxes would need welded but, imo, they are well worth the cost. I do not know what a shop would charge to put them in but, if you have someone do it, weld in the subframe connectors as well.

For your mastercylinder, there's not really anything to increase the efficiency outside of messing with bores and strokes which i do not recommend. If you have a single bowl MC, I would recommend switching it to a dual bowl. With the single bowl, if you have a leak and run out of fluid you also run out of brakes. With the dual bowl, if you loose rear brakes the fronts would still work and vice versa.
Thanks Chaser!
 

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Lots of good questions and some solid answers.

There are quite a few weak areas in our classic stangs and fortunately the aftermarket has sorted them out in varying degrees of cost.

A dual circuit master cylinder is a very good safety upgrade. If you already have front discs and they are the Kelsey Hayes (original style) they're decent and I'd only suggest good brake pads! The rear drums are more than adequate.

The front suspension is easily upgraded by two very simple things. The Shelby/Arning drop and adjustable strut rods. A larger front sway bar is also a great starting point thats an easy and inexpensive change. Some like keeping things close to stock and using the aforementioned springs and better shocks with roller perches. A refresh of components on a 55 year old car makes a world of difference

If you have the bucks and want it to handle like a modern performance car, I can't say enough good things about Street or Tracks coil over front end. I've put close to 10k on mine and LOVE IT. There isn't much I cant keep up with in the twists and it rides really nicely.

For steering, replace the tie rods and centre link with quality stock pieces and upgrade to a roller idler. If you want quicker steering, the Shelby idler and pitman arm help out. Borgeson also makes an integral power steering box (which I run and quite like) Making sure your steering box is in good shape without much play is also a good idea. Theres a forum member here who rebuilds them and does an excellent job.

You most likely have an 8in rear. The 9's came in Hipo cars. Although after 50 years who knows whats been changed. I like 3.55's for gears myself. Especially with an overdrive.

There have been lots of T5 and AOD swaps if you're looking for a cruising gear. I've got a T5Z in mine and love the mileage it gets on my many freeway jaunts and road trips.

As for the seats, Maybe post some pictures and collectively we could identify them and maybe steer you in a direction! I'm assuming the extenders should work with whatever is bolted in place.. unless a lot of butchery has happened ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I'm starting the slow process of disassembly. I'm starting with the rear quarter windows. Watched a few videos and pretty much know the process but I've come across a snag that isn't in any of the videos I've watched. At the bottom of the rear slide on the slider assembly there is what looks like a stop. It is attached to what looks like to me a body clip stuck in the slide channel. See pictures - one is what it looked like before I unscrewed the round bumper, the other is the clip in the channel. The clip will not slide out of the channel at the bottom for some reason. I think it hitting the lip of the assembly. It won't slide out the top because the window roller is in the channel. Any ideas and/or suggestions how to remove that POS???
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My bad - it was the same on the right side. Just needed to get a small screwdriver and squeeze in the back of the clip - came right out. Now when I go to put it back together and that stop is positioned will be a horse of a different color.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I have started to remove the multiude layers of paint. So far I have found white, silver frost, turquoise, and metallic blue...phew!!! Right now I'm doing the big and flatter surfaces by hand. I'll use stripper (aircraft stripper) on the hard toget to places. Found, what I believe are, a few bondo areas...but less than anticipated. When I get tothe right rear 1/4 panel I know it will be a different story. So far this has been fun...we'll see what the future holds. :)

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