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Start off doing what's needed at first to make the car safe and driveable. Get use to the car. After a while you'll get a better understanding of what you want to do. I 2nd with Opentracker Racing and Street or Track. Both of these guys are too notch and a great business model. Neither of them will sell you something you don't want or need and will work with your budget. This should be fun, make it fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Start off doing what's needed at first to make the car safe and driveable. Get use to the car. After a while you'll get a better understanding of what you want to do. I 2nd with Opentracker Racing and Street or Track. Both of these guys are too notch and a great business model. Neither of them will sell you something you don't want or need and will work with your budget. This should be fun, make it fun!
Yep Huskinhano - I have bought all the parts needed to make it a safe and fun ride. will be swapping those items out as I go. Did a restoration on a 69 Datsun Roadster so I have a little experience under my belt...however the Mustang is a little more complicated than the Datsun so it will be challenging...and fun!!
:D
 

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When I purchased my restomod 66 coupe with an upgraded 302 engine, my first actions were to address safety on the pony and add the emergency brake, add head-rests to the seats, seat belts (4) and added a fire extinguisher. I swapped out my C4 w/valve body to a AOD transmission and now the Pony is more street-able having come with 3.55 gearing. I reworked the cooling system fan control system to enable improved the cooling temps on the engine. I pulled out the front seat and layed down to fully inspect and secure all the electrical wiring under the dash. I traced the wiring throughout the car to include the ignition. I found flawed and excessive wiring throughout from previous components no longer required, So I felt I had secure the automobile before I started my various projects.
 

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I happened to catch that you're stripping the paint off the car using chemical stripper. While this will work just fine, as you've probably found out, it's really messy and if that crap gets on your skin it doesnt feel the best. I did the same thing when i started stripping the convertible....then i discovered the magic of a buffer with sanding discs.

Go get yourself a 7" buffer with hook and loop attachment. Then get some 80 grit Norton sanding discs and go nuts. I have dubbed mine "The Bondo Buster". Once i started using that I had my hardtop stripped down in like 3 or 4 hours. Pro tip...roll your car outside to do it because when you hit bondo it's like snow and where a mask...

Here's what i use (not 100% sure on the link to the discs. I use Norton BlueFire 80grit hook and loop 8" discs).
 

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Stripping it by hand!!! Do yourself a favor and get that drum style stripper tool from eastwood. You can sell it for at least half when done....
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I happened to catch that you're stripping the paint off the car using chemical stripper. While this will work just fine, as you've probably found out, it's really messy and if that crap gets on your skin it doesnt feel the best. I did the same thing when i started stripping the convertible....then i discovered the magic of a buffer with sanding discs.

Go get yourself a 7" buffer with hook and loop attachment. Then get some 80 grit Norton sanding discs and go nuts. I have dubbed mine "The Bondo Buster". Once i started using that I had my hardtop stripped down in like 3 or 4 hours. Pro tip...roll your car outside to do it because when you hit bondo it's like snow and where a mask...

Here's what i use (not 100% sure on the link to the discs. I use Norton BlueFire 80grit hook and loop 8" discs).
Yep Chaser - I do have the 7" buffer/hook and loop. Been using it somewhat...but as cheap as the last paint was I'm having more success using a very flexible putty knife and just getting under the old paint and peeling it off. On other areas I will use the buffer and in hard to reach areas and channels I'll use the stripper.
 

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So I posted other threads where replies provided me with great advice! But I want to begin using a single thread so I can easily find suggestions and solutions to my questions as I begin the process of the restomod of my Mustang. I've recieved advice on headliner, leaking exhaust/noisy lifter, getting it running, engine and tranny ID, etc. Thanks to those who assisted!!!!

Some facts about my car:
1966 coupe

289 swapped for a 302 Pretty common swap.

3-speed swapped for a C4 Good if you don't like shifting.

Edlebrock performer manifold About the same performance as the stock iron 4V.

Edlebrock 1406 carb Too much carb if you have a stock C3AZ-V cam. Get a 500 cfm (Autolite or Summit) and the car will run better.

Stock exhaust manifolds Not my favorite, but with a port-matching job, acceptable on a more or less stock engine.

Pretty poor dual exhaust system that ends at the mufflers right under the back seat (cough, cough!!) Very stylish in the 1980's. Until dyno testing showed cutting off the tailpipes actually reduced as much as 15 hp.

15" US Mags OK, if you like them.

Probably 3-4 paint jobs :puke: Typical.

Pretty solid body with very little rust (floor pans are good except for bend where driver side floor board meets firewall - a little light showing through there) Fix that first. Make sure it wasn't caused by a cowl leak, if so, fix that too.

Pieces missing (emblems, trim, antenna, etc.) Plentiful and decent quality.

Interior pretty thrashed. No problem to re-do. If you have non-66 seats, either replace them or special order 66 color and style for that year, for example, two-tone blue w/rosette grain for 70 high-back seats.

The seats are not original seats (newly discovered and maybe why they don't function properly). When I redo interior I want to put original seats back in. I know you can get kits to rebuild them but where is the best source to get original frames that won't cost me an arm and a leg?. Also - I ordered the seat extenders from Rebal Racing. Will they work on non-original seats? Should I wait to use them on original seats that will eventually go in?
All 65-73 Mustang seats had the same bolt pattern. Used 65-66 seats are where you find them. The left side is of course hardest to find. Everything you might need to rebuild them is available. I would replace the burlap first, then the foam if needed, then reupholster them. Avoid 71-73 seats, they fold straight forward which can interfere with the door panels on 65-70 cars.
 
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