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Start off doing what's needed at first to make the car safe and driveable. Get use to the car. After a while you'll get a better understanding of what you want to do. I 2nd with Opentracker Racing and Street or Track. Both of these guys are too notch and a great business model. Neither of them will sell you something you don't want or need and will work with your budget. This should be fun, make it fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Start off doing what's needed at first to make the car safe and driveable. Get use to the car. After a while you'll get a better understanding of what you want to do. I 2nd with Opentracker Racing and Street or Track. Both of these guys are too notch and a great business model. Neither of them will sell you something you don't want or need and will work with your budget. This should be fun, make it fun!
Yep Huskinhano - I have bought all the parts needed to make it a safe and fun ride. will be swapping those items out as I go. Did a restoration on a 69 Datsun Roadster so I have a little experience under my belt...however the Mustang is a little more complicated than the Datsun so it will be challenging...and fun!!
:D
 

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When I purchased my restomod 66 coupe with an upgraded 302 engine, my first actions were to address safety on the pony and add the emergency brake, add head-rests to the seats, seat belts (4) and added a fire extinguisher. I swapped out my C4 w/valve body to a AOD transmission and now the Pony is more street-able having come with 3.55 gearing. I reworked the cooling system fan control system to enable improved the cooling temps on the engine. I pulled out the front seat and layed down to fully inspect and secure all the electrical wiring under the dash. I traced the wiring throughout the car to include the ignition. I found flawed and excessive wiring throughout from previous components no longer required, So I felt I had secure the automobile before I started my various projects.
 

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I happened to catch that you're stripping the paint off the car using chemical stripper. While this will work just fine, as you've probably found out, it's really messy and if that crap gets on your skin it doesnt feel the best. I did the same thing when i started stripping the convertible....then i discovered the magic of a buffer with sanding discs.

Go get yourself a 7" buffer with hook and loop attachment. Then get some 80 grit Norton sanding discs and go nuts. I have dubbed mine "The Bondo Buster". Once i started using that I had my hardtop stripped down in like 3 or 4 hours. Pro tip...roll your car outside to do it because when you hit bondo it's like snow and where a mask...

Here's what i use (not 100% sure on the link to the discs. I use Norton BlueFire 80grit hook and loop 8" discs).
 

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Stripping it by hand!!! Do yourself a favor and get that drum style stripper tool from eastwood. You can sell it for at least half when done....
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I happened to catch that you're stripping the paint off the car using chemical stripper. While this will work just fine, as you've probably found out, it's really messy and if that crap gets on your skin it doesnt feel the best. I did the same thing when i started stripping the convertible....then i discovered the magic of a buffer with sanding discs.

Go get yourself a 7" buffer with hook and loop attachment. Then get some 80 grit Norton sanding discs and go nuts. I have dubbed mine "The Bondo Buster". Once i started using that I had my hardtop stripped down in like 3 or 4 hours. Pro tip...roll your car outside to do it because when you hit bondo it's like snow and where a mask...

Here's what i use (not 100% sure on the link to the discs. I use Norton BlueFire 80grit hook and loop 8" discs).
Yep Chaser - I do have the 7" buffer/hook and loop. Been using it somewhat...but as cheap as the last paint was I'm having more success using a very flexible putty knife and just getting under the old paint and peeling it off. On other areas I will use the buffer and in hard to reach areas and channels I'll use the stripper.
 

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So I posted other threads where replies provided me with great advice! But I want to begin using a single thread so I can easily find suggestions and solutions to my questions as I begin the process of the restomod of my Mustang. I've recieved advice on headliner, leaking exhaust/noisy lifter, getting it running, engine and tranny ID, etc. Thanks to those who assisted!!!!

Some facts about my car:
1966 coupe

289 swapped for a 302 Pretty common swap.

3-speed swapped for a C4 Good if you don't like shifting.

Edlebrock performer manifold About the same performance as the stock iron 4V.

Edlebrock 1406 carb Too much carb if you have a stock C3AZ-V cam. Get a 500 cfm (Autolite or Summit) and the car will run better.

Stock exhaust manifolds Not my favorite, but with a port-matching job, acceptable on a more or less stock engine.

Pretty poor dual exhaust system that ends at the mufflers right under the back seat (cough, cough!!) Very stylish in the 1980's. Until dyno testing showed cutting off the tailpipes actually reduced as much as 15 hp.

15" US Mags OK, if you like them.

Probably 3-4 paint jobs :puke: Typical.

Pretty solid body with very little rust (floor pans are good except for bend where driver side floor board meets firewall - a little light showing through there) Fix that first. Make sure it wasn't caused by a cowl leak, if so, fix that too.

Pieces missing (emblems, trim, antenna, etc.) Plentiful and decent quality.

Interior pretty thrashed. No problem to re-do. If you have non-66 seats, either replace them or special order 66 color and style for that year, for example, two-tone blue w/rosette grain for 70 high-back seats.

The seats are not original seats (newly discovered and maybe why they don't function properly). When I redo interior I want to put original seats back in. I know you can get kits to rebuild them but where is the best source to get original frames that won't cost me an arm and a leg?. Also - I ordered the seat extenders from Rebal Racing. Will they work on non-original seats? Should I wait to use them on original seats that will eventually go in?
All 65-73 Mustang seats had the same bolt pattern. Used 65-66 seats are where you find them. The left side is of course hardest to find. Everything you might need to rebuild them is available. I would replace the burlap first, then the foam if needed, then reupholster them. Avoid 71-73 seats, they fold straight forward which can interfere with the door panels on 65-70 cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Haven't posted on the progress in awhile so here goes,,,
Gas tank out
Hood and trunk lid removed
Almost all interior stripped out
Tail lights
Headlights and front fender extensions
Rear fender extensions
Bumpers
Instrument panel
Front windshield
Heater box
Heater controls and control panel
Glove box and door
Almost all switches
Alternator
P/S pump
Water pump
Export braces

Trying to remove rear valance but bolt/nuts attaching it to the rear 1/4 panels aren't cooperating. The bolt just turns as I try to take off the nut. Probably will end up cutting them off. Had a stubborn w/p bolt but with lots of PB, heat, hammer and impact wrench it eventually succumbed to my persistence. :D
Having a hard time with cig lighter. Does the shield on the back screw off and then the unit comes out the front???
It a slow process but having fun. :)

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Discussion Starter #30
Also - question on timing pointer...
When I got the car I didn't see a timing pointer on it. So doing some research I found a pointer and where it goes (left side of block). Installed it and timed engine. Ran good. But now when I removed the alt and W/P I see what I believe to be a timing pointer on the right side of block. If it is I have no idea how it would be used since it was hidden by the alt and w/p. ????? Two pix - one of the new pointer I put on and one of the new discovery. Any ideas out there in mustang land???
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Discussion Starter #33
I have taken out the front a rear glass and removing the "gooey" crap in thr channels. So far so good. I did find that a pin had been broken off on the lower left side of the front window channel and a PO had used a screw to hold down the clip. Other than that all the pins where there, front and rear. While I was scraping and grinding the crap out of the channels I noticed a stamp in the channel for the trunk lid right in the middle. picture below. Can someone tell me whaqt that stamp means?? Also there are pix of the lower left and right corners of rear glass. Someone told that is an area that is notorius for rusting. To me it looks pretty except for a little hole...but I'm sure someone else has a better eye than me and correct me if I'm wrong.
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Discussion Starter #34
Continuing to tear it down to hopefully have it ready for body and paint job in the fall. Still debating on the engine pull. I'm only pulling it to take care of the engine bay so I'm trying to decide do I pull just the motor or motor/tanny together? One thing I'll have to do no matter what is cut the exhaust just pass the headers to pull the headers off. The shop that did the exhaust cut the flanges of the headers and welded them straight to the pipe. UGH!!
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Continuing to tear it down to hopefully have it ready for body and paint job in the fall. Still debating on the engine pull. I'm only pulling it to take care of the engine bay so I'm trying to decide do I pull just the motor or motor/tanny together? One thing I'll have to do no matter what is cut the exhaust just pass the headers to pull the headers off. The shop that did the exhaust cut the flanges of the headers and welded them straight to the pipe. UGH!!
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I always pull the engine and tranny together. Why would you not? It takes more time to disconnect the trans from the engine than it does to pull them together...even FWD it takes more time to disconnect the two than it does just to pull the axles. As far as header flanges...you are looking at it wrong...its an opportunity to upgrade to v-band flanges on the collectors!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Engine is out and on the stand. :) Now to start cleaning up the engine bay. The knucklehead at the exhaust shop had cut off the flanges of the headers and welded them straight to
the exhaust :mad: so I had to cut the exhaust pipes, pull the headers to get the engine out. Oh well - I didn't like the exhaust work anyway.
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Now you can clean up engine bay 7 paint it before putting engine back......also a good time to reroute wiring and fuel lines for future EFI ...:)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Now you can clean up engine bay 7 paint it before putting engine back......also a good time to reroute wiring and fuel lines for future EFI ...:)
Yep!
I am replacing all the wiring throughout the car. After I clean up the engine bay and a couple more things it will be going to the body and paint shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Pulled out the rest of the wiring from behind the dash yesterday. Had to snip two wires which I didn't want to do. I wanted to keep the harness intake so that when I go to put the new harnesses in I'll have a pretty good model to follow.
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Aside from putting her wheels back on, loading her onto to a trailer, and taking her to a wash station to get the grease and grime out of the engine bay and from under the car are there any tricks or techniques that any of you have used to accomplish that in you garage???? (Without creating a complete mess;);))
 
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