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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - Well I've come to accept that I'm not ready to spend $20k-$30k for a fastback, so I've lowered my sights to a coupe. Recently one came up that interests me. It's a 66 GT coupe that has been sandblasted, rust repair completed, an sits in primer ready for final body work in preparation for paint.

It includes a 289/auto trans and interior. I have not yet heard back if the glass is included, or what other parts.

Asking price is $6k, which depending on what is or is not included seems a little high. What do you think? THANKS - Dickson
 

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I say keep looking for a COMPLETE car and pay a little bit more. Potentially, here's what you're looking at...

Coupe Shell - $6,000.
Paint & body to finish: $5,000.
Interior & Glass: $2,500.
Brake & Fuel Lines, Suspension pieces: $2,500.
Engine & Transmission refresh: $2,500.
Wheels & Tires: $1,500.
Brakes, fuel tank, radiator, heater box, instrument cluster, etc. $2,500.
Wiring, fixtures, trim: $1,500.

Potentially: $24,000 invested in parts, not including labor on some stuff, for a $20,000 car when finished.

I'd think it'd be more worthwhile to buy a nice, running and driving car for $15k and have to do little or nothing to enjoy.
 

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Still sounds a little high unless it is a K code and/ or the other parts are very good, but if there is NO rust and you are confident in your ability or budget to get it painted and all put together, go for it ! !
 

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The devil will be in the details. For a solid, clear title, documented code 65 GT body, that's actually not too bad. If you are getting glass, engine, axle, transmission, etc., it only improves. The hardtop was the best-selling body style for a reason.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Short of engine and transmission rebuilds, I have and can do all the other work to restore this car. Do I really want to is a good question! :)

I agree that starting with a driver would be a lot more fun. I'll have to see what parts are not included.

It's an A code car, and has the large master cylinder so is likely a factory GT. THANKS
 

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Unless your Mom or wife is making you sell the car on the day it is finished, it is OK to be a little under what you have into it. It's a hobby, and they all cost something.
Make sure it is a GT if that is what they're saying it is. Rust free and/or rust fixed (ah, perfectly) is hard to find. I don't think $6000 is out of wack, as long as you get ALL the parts needed to put it back together.
 

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If we all did this for the investment there would be no one rebuilding these mustangs. If the metalwork is done and done properly it doesn't sound like a bad price. Yes you can get a driver for a better price but it will still need money invested to bring it to the same level as this one when it's done so its real close IMO to a wash. Do you have the space, time and money to bring one back from this level?
 

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I am with 22 gt and Roddster- IF its a real gt- and now its rust free- (assuming you have the skills to reassemble) thats a pretty good deal. You could spend 3-5 on a rusty 6 cyl coupe then have to fix, then still reassemble/paint etc and you have a 6 banger coupe. Or you have a real GT- which would likely be almost rotisserie level resto.
 

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Yes, decent deal.

If you are not real familiar with the cars, you need to call a friend to INVENTORY what is there or not, and what stuff that is not there, is it pricy?

For example, Glass for a coupe, brand new, delivered to you, less than $500. Golden Star GS20-64S Glass Kit. No trim, no tracks, etc. Most glass after 50 years is scratches, pitted, etc. However, coupe door glass frames and stainless, quarter frames, vent window frames, might run $200, with some wear and tear, and such swap new glass into old frames.

There are very few parts on a coupe that are hard to find or pricey.

I have owned over 300 Mustangs. The car you described would be more interesting to me that some complete running driving cars for the following reasons:

1) Running and driving, people put value on stuff being trashed. For example, those OK tires, seller sees value, I see replace. That OK somewhat worn interior, seller sees value, I see total replacement. Running engine: Value to seller, I am rebuilding it anyway. So there is a lot of stuff that I am going to remove and trash, that the seller sees value, which makes the deal harder.

2) Body work done. Maybe not 100%, but close. Body work can be a real $$ sink, so it is done CORRECTLY, a value there.

3) Price of coupe parts: No deal breakers, and I have a lot laying around, or can get it cheap. Last month, bought a decent coupe, no engine or trans, nice body, power steering, rolling, for $600. Even if all you got was a shell and engine/trans, buying a car like I bought supplies a boat load of parts that will be used in a used state (trims, seat cores, etc.

Yes, I would do the deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've restored around 10 mustangs, including a 66 GT Fastback and 66 Shelby GT-350 6S733. This board helped me on both.

But I've been away from the hobby for a while. I'm rusty and astonished by the values placed on coupes and fastbacks.

I do have a small shop with the tools and spray equipment to restore this. The questions is do I want to, and does the parts inventory justify the purchase price. THANKS
 

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As others have said, I don't think the shell your're looking at is too far off in reality, if the metal work is right.
Wonder who the genius was that positioned that GT emblem on the right fender in post #5.
 

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Similar cars around here as a shell sell for about $4000...but it all depends on the quality of the rust repair...I have seen so much half a$$-ed metal work on just my car alone that I am very skeptical when someone says they have fixed the rust. Don't get me wrong...the rust repairs I do are not perfect...but at least I make an effort to duplicate what the factory did rather than overlaying a panel, tacking it down and calling it fixed which seems to be a common "repair" for floorpans....or people patching a quarter by lap welding it then bondo sculpting it in. However, if the metalwork is good and the car comes with all pieces, $6000 is a fair price...assuming you have the skills to do the finish work(aside from paint)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just talked to the owner. It's overpriced. He's excited that it's a real GT (it is) and all the parts that go with it. Parts like fender patches, wheel wells, quarterpanels etc...So obviously I calculated that all of those panels need replacement or repair. No thanks...but thanks guys for the guidance. The hunt continues! :)
 

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If it's that guy in north San Antonio, he was asking $7500 a year and a half ago when I passed on it. The engine and trans were questionable, even though he was pushing them as "done" and "ready to go."

$6K is still over priced for a shell in my universe. Good luck on your hunt. Patience- you'll know it when you find it.
 

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As others have said, I don't think the shell your're looking at is too far off in reality, if the metal work is right.
Wonder who the genius was that positioned that GT emblem on the right fender in post #5.
Someone too cheap to buy this template.

 
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