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Discussion Starter #1
For the past week I have been working on the sheet metal and frame rail under the hood.
Basicly I have to

1. Patch the frame rail under the battery on the pasenger side
2. Replace both strut Braces passenger and driver
3. Replace place the sheet metal around the battery
4. Rpelace the radiator core support sheet metal
5. Replace the front brace on the radiator core support


As of now the frame rail is patched and here are the photos

Basicly I plated the inside of the Patch and the rail with 1/4 inch material on all three sides. and I was able to run a decent beed between the two pieces.

The plate was held in place by drilled plug welds.
In fact every thing was held in place by drilled plug welds.

66 GT 2-2-2011 pictures by r_boulware - Photobucket
 

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Gonna be a great car. FYI, you may already know this, but there is a radiator support out there with the front cross piece already welded on the bottom. Here it is at NPD:

16138-1B
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Gonna be a great car. FYI, you may already know this, but there is a radiator support out there with the front cross piece already welded on the bottom. Here it is at NPD:

16138-1B
Yes sir!! This is what I plan to do...

Is this one from NPD any different or better than Mustangs Unlimited?
 

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Honestly, if it were me, I would go about these repairs a little different. As much rust as you have, I would strip the car down and have everything media blasted first and all good metal epoxy primed. Then start replacing parts/panels. And if you see a panel that needs replacing before blasting, rattle can that area bright orange so the blaster won't waste his time on that area.
If you need quarters, get those out of the way and blast the structure under it.
Just like building a great house, you start with a solid foundation.

But that's just me....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Honestly, if it were me, I would go about these repairs a little different. As much rust as you have, I would strip the car down and have everything media blasted first and all good metal epoxy primed. Then start replacing parts/panels. And if you see a panel that needs replacing before blasting, rattle can that area bright orange so the blaster won't waste his time on that area.
If you need quarters, get those out of the way and blast the structure under it.
Just like building a great house, you start with a solid foundation.

But that's just me....
Well your right. I am still going to get it blasted. But I just feel like I would like to gain a lil equity in the thing before I do it. Sort of feel like if I replace alot of the Obvious areas then I could really gain value.

I got 4 major areas
1. Rear pasenger 1/4 patch
2. Weld in the one piece floor pan. already got the old one out.
3. Fix the firewall toe boards
4. The Cowl does not leak but still replace it.
5. Fix all the under the hood stuff

Right now I am going to finsih up under the hood stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I want to do the alkiline dip with the E-coat process for 2500.00 I talked with the guy and he really sounds like this is a GOOD way to go..
 

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How bad is the rust in the cowl? If it doesn't leak, I wouldn't drill out all those spot welds if I didn't have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How bad is the rust in the cowl? If it doesn't leak, I wouldn't drill out all those spot welds if I didn't have to.
Well It aint terrible really, no it does not leak any. But it is rusty! I have seen worse FOR SURE!

But I just planed on using a Zaw Saw and a FAST grinder instead of doing all that drilling...I have actually done that before :( ....
 

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I think read that the downside to the complete cowl is that you can't do your own rust prevention inside. At least not as well as you can when you buy it in two parts.
 

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I am glad you are making progress - it doesn't sound as bad as you thought when you first looked at it.
 

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Pretty sure that the new repro cowls already come coated in something that prevents rust, don't they? Somebody told me that...
 
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