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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some help, thanks in advance.

I am encountering a very interesting issue. I have a new battery, voltage regulator, solenoid, battery terminal ends; and the problem persists.

Car will start and run fine and I take it out and get it to operating temps. Then when I get home and turn it off, and then try to restart, one click and nothing. Not even power to the head lights.

But if I let it cool down, disconnect the negative battery terminal, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnect, and it starts right up.

I am also replacing the solenoid to starter cable and the block to firewall cable, as those both look like they are original from 66 and show it.

If that doesn’t do it then the next step would be a starter. I don’t know if that could cause a “deadlock” like this

It really sounds like a grounding problem, Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Nick
 

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Looking for some help, thanks in advance.

I am encountering a very interesting issue. I have a new battery, voltage regulator, solenoid, battery terminal ends; and the problem persists.

Car will start and run fine and I take it out and get it to operating temps. Then when I get home and turn it off, and then try to restart, one click and nothing. Not even power to the head lights.

But if I let it cool down, disconnect the negative battery terminal, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnect, and it starts right up.

I am also replacing the solenoid to starter cable and the block to firewall cable, as those both look like they are original from 66 and show it.

If that doesn’t do it then the next step would be a starter. I don’t know if that could cause a “deadlock” like this

It really sounds like a grounding problem, Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Nick
It does sound like a ground problem. Replace the complete cable set. The replacement ends are really only for a quick fix and I'd never leave them on there long. Battery cables and ground issues will cause lots of problems that may not seem related, but are a direct result of poor or dirty/corroded connections. It wouldn't hurt to add a battery to apron ground connection as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
It does sound like a ground problem. Replace the complete cable set. The replacement ends are really only for a quick fix and I'd never leave them on there long. Battery cables and ground issues will cause lots of problems that may not seem related, but are a direct result of poor or dirty/corroded connections. It wouldn't hurt to add a battery to apron ground connection as well.
Thanks, yes actually the only end I did replace was the negative, as I had one of those quick disconnects and thought it might be the issue. So I took it off and replaced the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It does sound like a ground problem. Replace the complete cable set. The replacement ends are really only for a quick fix and I'd never leave them on there long. Battery cables and ground issues will cause lots of problems that may not seem related, but are a direct result of poor or dirty/corroded connections. It wouldn't hurt to add a battery to apron ground connection as well.
Thanks, yes actually the only end I did replace was the negative, as I had one of those quick disconnects and thought it might be the issue. So I took it off and replaced the end.
Starter. Suggest you get this one rebuilt. Don't bother with the aftermarket. Brian
Thanks, I just replaced the solenoid to starter and block to firewall cables. So really the only thing left to try is the starter. Going to take it for a test ride to see where I stand. If the problem persists, I will yang the starter and go from there.
 

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It sounds like a battery connection. You hear the solenoid click then the big draw for the starter is too much for the weak connection and yes sometimes even when the terminal is tight on the battery post. It happening after driving it was just a coincidence or effects from vibration.
You should have left the key or headlights in the on position then go see if you can twist the cables on the batt post or jiggle the connections anywhere and re-establish current flow.
 

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I recently had EXACTLY the same issue.

You should have left the key or headlights in the on position then go see if you can twist the cables on the batt post or jiggle the connections anywhere and re-establish current flow.
And this was exactly the fix. Turned out my negative cable had separated at the terminal, but under the insulation, so it wasn't visible, but the headlights + wiggle revealed it.
 

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If removing the terminal from the negative post of the battery and reinstalling it fixes the problem I would say it is fairly obvious where the problem lies.;)
 

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+1 for possible starter with an explanation.
Ford (maybe others) starters are known for shorting when hot.
This causes high current draw and will stress every connection.
Making everything pristine will allow the high current and starter will turn, but it is on the edge.

If you've gotten all else clean - a good thing, I'd look at starter.
 

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By any chance, do you have headers?
 

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My 73 had a similar problem, fine a couple of times then just died on a right hand turn. Difficult diagnosis but was a bad ground wire, the shop replaced and added another block ground and fixed it.
 

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Yeah, This sounds like an engine grounding problem... Check all battey connections and the engine grounding wire connections to the body underhood...
 
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