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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi. Thanks for visiting my thread. I have been a frequent visitor to VMF for a few years and I am very excited about becoming an active participant. VMF provided me with a very generous amount of free knowledge. I look forward to giving back sharing lessons and knowledge learned from my own build. I am determined to do at least 90% of the work myself. Thus, mistakes will be made, but that’s how we learn right? For me, the most rewarding part of a restoration is acquiring the knowledge and skills to maintain my vehicle. Basically, if I can’t build it, I can’t drive it.
My first venture into becoming a vintage Mustang enthusiast began with the restoration of a 1968 Mustang, my high school daily driver. Collaborating with my Father while learning the basics of auto mechanics, upholstery, wiring, and paint was an immensely rewarding experience. I currently work as a cinematographer, so my day job requires a vastly different skillset, but that’s what makes this whole build process exciting to me. I love to learn and use my hands building something physical that which exists in the real world and isn’t just a bunch of pixels in the cloud or big screen.
With that said, I have decided to build my dream car, a Restomod 1966 Mustang Convertible equipped with a Coyote engine, T56 transmission, coil over suspension, 4 link rear end, 4 wheels disc brakes, roll bar, many other modern mechanical, and electrical upgrades. I love the idea of building a vintage muscle car, but drives like a modern vehicle offering both good performance and reliability. Inspiration comes from vehicles built by vendors such as: The Ring Brothers, Revology Cars, Classic Recreations, and from contributors to this very forum.
I scoured the web looking for an ideal vehicle to restore. However, I didn’t have the heart to chop up a solid surviving convertible, so I decided to go with a new structure purchased from R3 Performance Products. If I purchased a rust bucket, I would ultimately end up replacing the majority of the structure anyways and I wanted to be sure that I had a solid platform to handle the horsepower and stiffer suspension. Did I make the right decision? You be the judge. With that said, thanks for reading. Here it is in epoxy glory.

Regards,
Joshua





 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Suspension

After doing a bit of research online and inspecting cars at shows like the Good Guys events, I decided to go with a Heidts Pro G Gen 2 front suspension. The Gen 2 was just released and I liked how robust this setup looked. With this setup, a Coyote engine sits low enough so that the tunnel will not require modifications for a T56 transmission. 13” 6 Piston Wilwood Calipers are mounted up front with rack and pinion power steering and 1” sway bar.
In the rear I have Heidts Coil over 4-link system with a Currie 9” with 12” 4 Piston Wilwoods brakes. I went with a 3.25 TrueTrack Track differential. Maybe I should have gone with 3.55?
R3 Performance welded in the front cross member and 4-link brackets. They also built me a single piece convertible seat riser that was lowered 1” from stock, which will provide additional clearance for modern seats. Custom ordering a structure with these custom components was a principle reason for purchasing through R3 Performance.











 

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Discussion Starter #3
Suspension Disassembly + Seam Sealer

Suspension disassembled. Welded on brake tabs to the rear end prior to being sent off for powder coat. Took a couple of days to apply the seam sealer to the structure. I tried to mask and be as neat as possible. I also sprayed Eastwood internal frame coating where I could within seat risers, cowl vent, inner rockers, front, and rear frame rails.















 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lizard Skin Sound Control

Applied Eastwood black primer in some areas followed by Lizard Skin Sound control on floor pan, under dash, within doors, and in parts of the trunk. Its my understanding that this will help with Road noise and protect the epoxy primer while working within the vehicle.










 

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Discussion Starter #6
Master Concepts

My current exterior paint and aesthetic theme is primarily black and white with red or silver accents. I’m visualizing white body paint with clear coat and matte black stripes across the hood and trunk. I may add hash marks (fender stripes?) in red or silver? All chrome will be blacked out with powder coat or paint where required. Black rims in 17” or 18”. I’d like to go with a cloth black convertible top. Mildly smoke tinted glass all around.
For interior, I’m thinking black leather upholstery for seating and black essex carpet. Painted surfaces will be a dark grey for the dash, window pillars, door panels, and rear quarter panels. I’m contemplating the application of carbon fiber throughout parts of the car for items such as; instrument bezel, glove box, door panels, console, engine cover, and perhaps bumpers. The plan will most likely change, but most importantly, I’m heading in a direction that inspires me. I’m sure it’s not for everyone, but I think it will truly be one of a kind Mustang. Wow, this is so much fun!







 

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Discussion Starter #10
Donor Parts

I spent a couple of days pulling donor parts and cataloging components so that I have a better understanding of what is missing and needed. Luckily my father and I have been acquiring parts for a couple of years. Currently, I have an original: pedal box, convertible top, windshield wiper under dash assembly, rear seat, pony door lights, original trim, convertible rear interior quarter panel assemblies, glass trim, fenders, bumper brackets, rock shield, headlight doors, and a few other items. I’m sure locating missing parts will be an ongoing process. I already ordered master exterior and interior bolt kits along with a master weather-stripping kit. Thus, paint stripping and bead blasting begins!





Interior door latch assembly





Rusty pedal box. I guess Ford installed these without primer?



 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Modern Driveline Package

Delivery from Modern Driveline arrived. I went with the narrow ratio T56 (2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1, .8, .64). Also ordered Quicktime bellhousing, flywheel bolt kit, pressure plate, Tilton 6000 throw-out bearing, digital speed sensor, speed harness, reverse lockout harness with solenoid, ATF oil, and Kevlar clutch set.

















 

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Discussion Starter #12
Chassis Black Underbody Coating

Sprayed Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Finish black on the underbody. Applied 3M Undercoating in wheel wells. After mechanical fitting, I may apply Lizardskin SI and CI within the tunnel and above the mufflers followed by another coat of black satin.











 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dual Exhaust Rear Floorpan Reinforcements

It’s my understanding that all K code and GT Mustangs came equipped with added reinforcement floor pans located under the rear seats. I don’t know what type of exhaust that I will run, but figured if Ford thought they were necessary, it would probably be wise to do so as well. Classic Tube manufactures them and I purchased them through CJ Pony Parts awhile back. So I’m already working backwards removing a small area of the Lizard skin, but otherwise I followed the instructions from this online article.

Glue In Dual Exhaust Rear Floorpan Reinforcements

I did trim the lower edge of the pans. I looked at a Factory GT vehicle that we have and these pans were originally sandwiched between the lower seam, but I wanted to allow room for seam sealer and not compromise the structure welds.





Applied weld-through primer backside.



Notice how the convertible seat back upper plate is crooked, drives me nuts. Pans welded in. Drilled the four holes for the exhaust hangers.



Primed and seam sealed. I will topcoat with Lizardskin when I’m ready to coat the firewall again.
 

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How hard was it to get the Lizard Skin off? I did my interior with the sound and heat shields about a month ago and have decided to weld in a MTF roll bar so I will have to do a little removal myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Peeling Off Lizard Skin

How hard was it to get the Lizard Skin off? I did my interior with the sound and heat shields about a month ago and have decided to weld in a MTF roll bar so I will have to do a little removal myself.
I first scored the edges with an exacto knife. Once started, the Lizard Skin peeled off in small stripes by hand. I'm sure something like a 3M cleaning disc could be used, but talk about a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Gen 2 Coyote and Control Pack

Picked up my Coyote from the shipper. I give much gratitude to JEGS for an awesome price and prompt delivery. The deal also included the Ford Performance Control Pack.







The Control Pack: harness, pedal, upper and lower safety switches, 02 sensors, mass air, upper and lower radiator hose, and ECU module.







Take note of the charge motion control valve actuators at the back of the intake manifold on the Gen 2 Coyote. The large oil cooler most definitely isn’t going to fit.



Jindo meets Coyote in a silent greeting.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Suspension

Picked up the suspension components from the powder coat shop. I went with a 60% gloss black. In goes the 9” True Track third member with 31 spline axles. My Dad shaped custom brake lines. Third member painted with high temperature engine gloss black paint.







Four-link



Coyote engine mounts



Upper



Lower



 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Seating

I purchased a pair of brand new 2003 Mach 1 Mustang seats about ten years ago. They have been peacefully resting in the basement waiting for this project! I’m sure there will be fitment hurdles, but I’m glad that I had the seat risers lowered. TMI is making matching leather upholstery for the back seat. I'm told it's their first order of this type for a 65-66 convertible.



 
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