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Discussion Starter #182 (Edited)
Second Powder Coat Batch and Glass Assemblies

The second batch of powder coat pot medal didn’t do any better than my first batch. I had a pair of vent window frames and quarter glass frames powder coated with a grey primer, wet sanded, and then primed with a black topcoat of 20% gloss. I had a second set of front vent window frames powder coated with two heavy coats of 20% gloss black. Degassing bubbles still came through on all but one vent frame.





I considered purchasing reproduction front vent window frames and quarter window assemblies, but figured I would give paint a try to the originals. I wet sanded the powder coat with 400 grit sand paper and painted over. I repeated the process 2-3 three time filling in the bubbles and I’m pleased with the results. Durability seems decent, but time will tell. All stainless and reproduction parts are still powder coat.





Quarter glass assembled using 1/16” sealstrip glass setting tape. I purchased a complete set of smoked reproduction: vent, door, and quarter glass.





Vent window frame assemblies are about 80% complete. I still need to detail and seal with silicone.







Door Glass Assembly



A lot of work, but it’s worth it!
 

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Man alive, the blacked out trim and smoked glass looks great. I cant say I've seen one done like that (at least not this nicely)
 

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I am following along to see how nice this project turns out. So far, I am very impressed with your work and detailed notes. Very nice job!

Would you happen to have some detailed pictures of how you modified your radiator support when you cut off the top portion? I like the idea of having the extra room for motor installation, curious to see how it looks bolted back together too.
 

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Discussion Starter #188 (Edited)
Removable Radiator Support

I am following along to see how nice this project turns out. So far, I am very impressed with your work and detailed notes. Very nice job!

Would you happen to have some detailed pictures of how you modified your radiator support when you cut off the top portion? I like the idea of having the extra room for motor installation, curious to see how it looks bolted back together too.
Thanks for your kind words. I currently have around 5,000 photographs of the structure and build so I need to spend some time organizing. We used a reciprocating saw to cut the radiator support, so there was very little material loss. On the backside, we cut and welded in some brackets using scraps from widening the radiator support cutout. The removable cross member is bolted in using a pair of factory U clip nuts. I like the simple and factory aesthetic. I have no idea how anyone could install a Coyote without making such a modification.

 

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Discussion Starter #192
65 Convertible And The Search For Parts

Update. I’ve been keeping busy working on my Mom’s fastback: rebuilt engine, AC, console, electric fan, LED headlights, new front suspension, disc brakes, and new floor pans. My fastback is stripped down to a bare shell and is ready for metal work. Unfortunately it has turned into a parts storage rack and will be so until my Mom’s car is reassembled and back on the road.



Meanwhile, found a deal on a stripped 65 Mustang Convertible that was way too good to pass up. It is a T code, C4 car born in Dearborn, MI 5F08T37XXXX. The rear window panel will need to be replaced due to rust on the LH side. It may need new floor pans and doors, but the frame rails, inner rockers look good. I still need to inspect the cowl, but otherwise it is a really solid shell. My Dad and I bolted up a trunk and hood, which didn’t come with the car, but at least it looking more complete, one part at time.





The towers were already chopped and the car has a Rod & Custom front cross-member with coil over suspension. So someone had plans for this beauty. The rear end looks to be from a 67 or later Mustang and is held in place to the springs by C clamps. I do like the 17” 87-93 Mustang Cobra R style rims. Speaking of parts.



I purchased a pair of coupe doors for their internal window and latch components. I already have a backup set of convertible door glass and quarter windows. I found an upper and lower convertible back seat frame and a 1968 Mustang convertible with power top hydraulics from a gentleman in Palmdale, CA. Apparently 1965 through 1968 Mustang Convertible tops are interchangeable as far as vehicle fitment. There are subtle differences between the years and plant of manufacturer, but the 1968 model year convertible top is unique as it uses a black rubber clothes hanger and the hinge between the front and second frame members is stamped rather than made from cast metal like the earlier years. It is my understanding that by 1969, Ford changed the design of the convertible frame top completely and changed to aluminum for the frames.



Back seat door tag code C8. It is my understanding that all back seat frames for 65-68 convertibles are identical in dimension.



Door parts disassembled. I found this assembly line build sheet sandwiched between the driver side door splash shield and door panel. Cool little find. Looks like the driver’s side door that I purchased came from a 65 C code coupe assembled in Metuchen, NJ.



A couple of weeks ago my Dad located a pristine 1965 Mustang Convertible top in the Oakland Hills. It was another Craigslist find. I may sell the 68 top, but will keep it for parts for now and swap over the power top components.



The plan is to media blast and epoxy seal this summer, but the car is off to hibernate for now.
 

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DANG! Such quality work in such quantity! I am barely able to keep progress going on my single project.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Update

I've read through all 13 pages. This is a great source of information for me. Any updates on the build?
Looking forward to the fifth and hopefully final trip to see my car this week. I managed to book an appointment and have requested a viewing on a lift. In summary, I last received photographs of the progress around Fall of last year and it is my understanding that everything passed quality control around the end of March. Looking forward to resuming the build! It’s been one for the books.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
April Update

The following is a brief summary of what looked to be a complete replacement shell with touchup black paint and bed liner. I instructed no touchup and wasn’t expecting anything beyond epoxy primer, but I get it was made to look similar. I’ll have to re-drill for: windshield molding, trim, doorsills, hydraulic clutch, oil bulkhead fittings, power top, quarter panels, AC mounting, AC lines, body tack strip, and a few other things, but I will just have to do it better round two. I used a tape measure and laser on a few positions. The substructure looked to be now symmetrical. Good gap between cowl and doors. The replacement structure has a 66/GT style dash per my request. Super positive and happy about all this.












I brought a few major and minor items to their attention. The following is only a summary. Originally, I had single piece aprons, which looked to be replaced with two-piece aprons with drilled out towers. The LH upper control arm was rubbing along the apron.





It looks like my second pair of fenders was modified like the first set that I provided.



The vehicle was on a four-point lift, so I wasn’t able to pull the rims and fully inspect. I brought to their attention that the majority of the suspension hardware, powder coat, and a caliper were damaged. I was instructed that everything passed QC.











My anodized Ring Brother trunk hinges probably need to be replacement as well. There are other things, but overall positive about the replacement. However, not yet ready for the journey home.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Ford Performance Racing School





I had the opportunity to attend the Ford Performance Racing School in Tooele, Utah a few weeks ago. I think it is amazing that Ford offers such a program at no cost to individuals who purchase a Ford Performance Vehicle. I attended Raptor Assault which began with some in class instruction learning about: smooth weight transfer, cornering theory, left foot breaking, Raptor drive modes, among other road, and trail techniques. The majority of the day is spent behind the wheel on a dirt track, agility course, dirt mountain road, and through a baja/desert course. It was the first time that I did anything like this and I was really impressed with every aspect of the program. I now have a better understanding and appreciation for the engineering that went into the Raptor and I hope to return someday to attend a class on the track behind a GT. I highly recommend it, especially for beginners, and you’ll have the time of your life.

https://www.fordperformanceracingschool.com/en/



Unfortunately, I don’t have much to report in regards to the 66 Convertible. I’m beginning principle photography on a film and will be slammed for a few weeks. Meanwhile, I’m working on getting the damages, touch up, and remaining structural issues resolved with R3. For the previous 8 months, I’ve always tried to get everything documented, photographed, and have communicated with a clear direction in writing. I had no idea that I would have to deal with this kind of stuff on a home restoration build.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Update

So did this build just end? Can’t wait to see more.
Thanks for your enthusiasm. I’m excited and am looking forward to resuming the build sometime early next year. I’ve been putting my positive energy into finishing the restoration of my Mom’s 65 Fastback and have been searching for original parts for the 65 T code convertible shell.





I have purchased, media blasted, powder coated and assembled all new Heidts Pro G front suspension components that I may use for this car or my 65 Fastback. Also have a suspension hardware rebuild kit on order, but I yet won’t know what repair route will be required. I ordered a new radiator support and single piece aprons that I may need to install to get the car back to the way it was. New replacement anodized black trunk hinges on order as well.



 
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