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Discussion Starter #22
Suspension is bolted back in so the structure is a roller. Everything is lubricated with white lithium grease. Nothing has been aligned. Added a rear sway bar, which barely clears the 9” Currie housing. I have a feeling that I will need to disassemble the front suspension again for paint, but I could work on a rolling chassis in the meantime.













Last, a belated selfie pic.
 

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i like your sub frame connectors-- you make those or whose are they?

and lower that car its way too tall!..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hunting and Pulling Parts

I have a rolling shell, but I need to find some parts, a lot of rusty parts! I have access to a blasting cabinet, so I will be able to properly treat for rust, clean, and prime as I go. The search continues.



Cleaned a prepped windows wipers mechanism. Researching ways to test the motor before it’s in the car with a harness.



Disassembled the convertible rear quarter panels. Blasted the medal panels.



Primed and as good as new.



Bead blasting.



More bead blasting.



Steering column bracket. Apparently they don’t make repos?



Disassembled a couple of complete doors so I have an assortment of lock mechanisms, latches, latch rods, handles, vent window trim, and convertible window frames. I’m told coupe and convertible window frames are not interchangeable. I’ll be going with power windows, so I don’t need the window cranks. Allocated rear window frames and hardware.






Allocated a 2nd pair of fenders. Not the best pair, but I now have options for fitment. Don’t worry, this donor car is a T code coupe and both A and B pillars are heavily rusted. It has no options and 13” rims?



Pony door lights



A convertible top. Looks complete with the exception of one missing nut. I won’t know what I’m up against until disassembly, but it’s going to need some attention.

Hunt, find, unbolt, clean, bead blast, sand, prime, and repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
New Parts

I went with a Ford style Ididit tilt column. 3/4 in 36 spline. Column diameter is 2.5”, so the stock dash bracket will work.





Etching Primer



Radiator arrived. I decided to go with the C & R Racing model 10-01003. It’s a single pass cross flow with a built in power steering cooler and dual 11” fans. It also has built in mounts to the radiator brace. No separate brackets required. The inlet (1.5”) is on passenger side and bottom outlet on driver side to match Coyote engine. Pricey, but I shouldn’t have to worry about overheating.



Heidts transmission cross member for a T56.





My gas tank from Mustangs To Fear arrived. It’s a 22 Gallon unit with AN6 feed and return placed to clear the 4-link. Fitted with Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump. It has internal baffles and is all aluminum.



Detroit Speed trunk battery mount compatible with the Optima 34/78 series.



Scuffed and applied a healthy coat of primer to repro splash shields. Their factory E coat primer is thin.

Moving forward one part at a time.
 

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I have a rolling shell, but I need to find some parts, a lot of rusty parts! I have access to a blasting cabinet, so I will be able to properly treat for rust, clean, and prime as I go. The search continues.



Cleaned a prepped windows wipers mechanism. Researching ways to test the motor before it’s in the car with a harness.

Nice build!!!!

Here is how to test the 2sp wiper motor:

In the shop manual, the B and C terminals are the two terminals on the motor.

TESTING CONNECTIONS:
TO PARK:

B TERMINAL TO VOLTAGE SOURCE
C TERMINAL TO Blue AND Red
Yellow TO White
Black TO GROUND

TO OPERATE AT HIGH SPEED:

Yellow TO VOLTAGE SOURCE
Blue TO White
Black TO GROUND
B AND C TERMINALS AND Red NO CONNECTION

TO OPERATE AT LOW SPEED:

Red AND Yellow TO VOLTAGE SOURCE
Blue TO White
Black TO GROUND
B AND C TERMINALS NO CONNECTION

Hope this helps, this is how I test mine.

Greetings from Uruguay!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Bare Trunk

have any more pics of inside trunk? want to see how much you painted and if you have more interior pics
Sure, attached is a photograph of the trunk prior to dropping in the gas tank. What you see is epoxy red primer, black chassis Eastwood primer, Lizardskin SI, followed by Eastwood Black Chassis. I got a little creative with the Lizardskin covering the interior of the rear quarter panels, wheelhouses, and upper part of the tank. I'm not exactly set on what I would like to do with the trunk, but I will most likely eventually install some type of deck and upholstery covering all of this.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Blacking Out

Jumping around as purchases arrive. I will powder coat chrome parts that can take the heat. For parts that need to be painted, I experimented with a number of techniques. I settled on blasting with aluminum oxide and coating with SEM trim paint. I am pleased with the Satin finish and durability. I’m curious to see how pot metal handles powder coating?













Rear convertible quarter panel ashtray covers.





LED reverse lights.







Sequential LED tail lamps. I’ll powder coat a set of tail lamp bezels for comparison.







Installed amber LED parking lights from Mustang Project. So the signal lighting will still be amber, but with a clear lens.



Interior pony door light fixture.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Instrument Cluster and Glove Box

I really dig a lot of the Mustang To Fear products. I ordered their instrument cluster and glove box bezels. They are made of ABS plastic and are available in aluminum or carbon fiber prints. I’d figure I could always paint if I didn’t like the faux carbon fiber. In keeping with my black and white theme, I really liked the look of the Auto Meter Phantom II gauges.



Donor glove box.



Blasted



Painted

Here is a sneak peak of the cluster.







Matching door panels. I like how these panels are pre fitted with speakers, as there isn’t much room in a convertible. Also, no window rollers so power windows are a must. Paint is an option, but so far I’m digging the look.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Roll Bar

Picked up the 1965-1970 Convertible Street Bar from Mustangs Plus. The rear seat is usable and it will give me a third mounting point for the front seat belts. I liked how the Shelby Roll Bar looks, but it offers zero functionality and is purely aesthetic.



Drilled and welded in rivnuts to the lower inner frame.





I’m sure this will complicate the installation of door sill scuff plates and the rear quarter panels, but I’ll feel safer. The plan is to powder coat and possibly make a padding kit.



 

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Looks great man. On your steering, I think you might need to come a little farther forward from your column before you go down to the rack. I had to add about 3 inches to clear the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Steering

Looks great man. On your steering, I think you might need to come a little farther forward from your column before you go down to the rack. I had to add about 3 inches to clear the headers.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm sure everything will need an adjustment. Learning as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Clutch and Transmission

I removed the stock flywheel and installed engine block plate, which simply hangs on the block dowels. The Flywheel went on next. I kept the stock pilot bearing included with the Coyote block.





Clutch disc held by the clutch alignment tool.



Both lines are AN-4 male. Bottom is supply, top is bleed line.



Tilton 6000 hydraulic release bearing installed. We had to shorten the anti rotation stud, otherwise it would have interfered with the clutch. The trickiest part of the install was setting the distance between the face of the release bearing to the face of the transmission. The bearing to clutch distance is .125”.





Engine Mounts



Heidts transmission cross member uses a stock style transmission mount (C4, toploader, etc). I went with a Prothane unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Serpentine Kit

I ordered a March Performance Ford 5.0 Late Model Coyote kit 30555-08. It’s black powder coated with air conditioning, power steering, and includes the Ford Boss 302 alternator pack.



Crate engine as equipped from the factory. Early Coyote engines come with a 4-bolt water pump, while 2014 and later have a 3-bolt water pump.





Everything included with the alternator kit. Belt is included as well.



This webbing behind the power steering pump must be an addition for the Gen 2 Coyote? I will need to grind down a little.







March Performance remote power steering reservoir and AC vertical manifold with #8 and #10 fittings.

Installation instructions.

http://marchperformance.com/media/wysiwyg/documents/30510_instructions.pdf
 
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