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Discussion Starter #41
New Parts, Air Conditioning, Hinges, and Fuel Lines

I purchased the Vintage Air Gen IV Air Conditioning. Vintage Air uses the stock firewall heater inlet and outlet holes. The stock fan heater is replaced with a plate that guides the AC lines. The Custom Auto Air System run both AC and heater lines through the stock heater fan cutout, which may have been the more simpler option since the Coyote engine is so wide. I hear good things about both vendors. For the Coyote, the compressor is mounted on the passenger side, so will need to cut and crimp custom AC lines.









Capped the right cowl vent from under the dash.





Drilled the firewall mounting points.



Ring Brothers anodized black hinges. Love these.



The plan was to go with the stock hinges for the trunk lid, but after smashing my fingers a couple of times on the torsion bars I saw the value in upgrading.





Master body bolt kit. This will be a lifesaver.



Designing my fuel system. Going with Aeromotive EFI fuel pressure regulator, filter, and -6 AN fittings. Black Aeroquip Starlite hose for the engine compartment and stainless steel braided hose for the undercarriage. The Ford Control Pack requires a return line even though the fuel rail on the Coyote is a returnless style fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Radiator Core Support

It’s time to cut and widen the radiator opening on the core support. I reviewed the Vintage Air instructions, but also temporarily fitted the radiator for measurements.












Our little humble garage. The Coyote nudges ever so closely to its vintage companion. I have to find a way to better organize all these boxes!

The Coyote engine is a beast, so based upon my father’s recommendation we modified the radiator core support further by making the top center cross member removable. Wilwood made a cool prototype bracket out of aluminum for their red Coyote coupe, but they don’t sell it. I begged them for one, but no luck.



 

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Can you provide the details on the hydraulic cartridges for the rear deck lid?

Thanks, Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Engine and T56 Fitment

It’s finally time to install the engine for fitment. My Dad fabricated some engine hoist brackets. I’m told Ford stopped shipping the Coyote crate engines with lift brackets in 2014. I couldn’t find a pair for purchase anywhere on the web. We removed the remote oil cooler, oil filter, alternator from the engine, and gave it a go.



Ultimately we discovered installation is much easier when the intake manifold is removed.



Engine sits low compared to other installs that I have seen.



Shifter Lines up. Looks like only a minimal amount of cutting will be required.





There is about half an inch of clearance between the oil pan and center cross member.



The manifold CMCV actuators clear the firewall by about a quarter of an inch depending on the transmission angle. MMR makes a CMCV lock out kit that removes the plastic actuators located on the back of the manifold. Apparently it locks the intake manifold runner control valves/flaps in the full open position. However, I’d like to keep that functionality for improved low-end torque and horsepower.

CMCV LOCK OUT 2015 - 2017 Mustang GT & Shelby GT350 [477191] - $39.99 : Modular Motorsports, Home of the Worlds Fastest Modular Engines





Tunnel clearance is looking good!



All was looking good until we discovered that the engine was sitting so low that the alternator mounted in its stock position would interfere with the upper A arm! Now I know why there are Coyote serpentine kits with reverse mounted alternators mounted on the passenger side. Crises avoided as I think I have come up with a viable solution with my current serpentine.



Apparently the transmission cross member and transmission mount bolts are not aligning? The shifter is aligned to the floor pan cutout so either the transmission cross member is flawed or the frame rails are not centered? I’ll be taking some measurements.
 

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That does look lower than other setups I've seen. Do you have a way to measure what angle the motor is at with he transmission installed? I'd be curious to see if you can get 4* or less.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Hinge Hydraulics

Can you provide the details on the hydraulic cartridges for the rear deck lid?

Thanks, Clint
The Ring Brother hinges are available with two different hydraulics. Attached is a photograph for convertible/ coupe steel trunk lid. I have fiberglass up front.

 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Engine and T56 Fitment Part 2

The Heidts transmission crossmember mounts to the inner floor frame supports beneath and in front of the seat platform. So why was the transmission aligning to the floor pan shifter hole, but not with the transmission crossmember? After taking measurements on my R3 Performance frame, and comparing to three other factory 65-66 Mustangs, I can say that my inner floor frame supprts are shifted approximately ¾ from center. All of the factory Mustang frame rails that I measured are centered within a 1/8th of an inch tolerance between the outer rocker panels. I modified the Transmission crossmember to accommodate this offset.







Once the crossmember, transmission mount, and T56 were bolted up, it was apparent that the T56 was pushing up against the floor pan at the shifter and along the floor support crossmember.



I opened up around the shifter.



You can see where the T56 is touching the floor support, which will be notched after the engine is pulled. I still need to determine the transmission angle, but visually the angle looks much improved.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Alternator

As shown in my previous posts, the Alternator mounted in the stock position conflicts with the upper A arm. However, it looks like I have proper clearance when mounting the alternator on its lower bracket and then slinging downward. We will modify and grind the upper alternator bracket on the alternator so it fits between the frame rail. I have ordered a 4.5-6” adjustment rod. We will probably need to modify the sway bar perch as well for additional clearance.







Planning on swinging and raising the alternator an inch up, which should be enough clearance between it and the rack and pinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Remote Oil Filter and Oil Cooler

Due to space limitations, I have decided to mount the oil filter remotely, install an oil cooler, and thermostat. Ford designed a new oil adapter for 2015 and newer (Gen 2) Coyote engines.



Stock and Ford Performance oil adapter with 12 AN fittings. Stock harness oil pressure gauge top left. Also photographed is the Earl remote oil thermostat 501ERL. I will be running 10 AN hoses and Aeroquip anodized black fittings.









http://documents.holley.com/199r10647rev1.pdf

The Coyote engine uses a 22mm spin on oil filter. I decided to go with a stock sized remote oil filter mount, Canton racing 22-623. Ford Oil filter, AA5Z6714A.




Earl’s Oil cooler with 10 AN fittings.



Learning how to assemble AN hose fittings. Using ample amounts of Aeroquip hose assembly lube FBM3553.
 

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Thanks for a very informative build... I like your alternator mounting solution and am keen to see how that works out.

Which headers are you planning to use?
 

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What kind of fastening system are you using to secure the section of the radiator you cut out? I have been mulling around the idea of doing that myself. That is a lot of motor and transmission to be shoe horning into a 65.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Radiator Brackets

What kind of fastening system are you using to secure the section of the radiator you cut out? I have been mulling around the idea of doing that myself. That is a lot of motor and transmission to be shoe horning into a 65.
Hi, The Radiator comes with built in brackets. Very simple and clean install.





I decided to go with the C & R Racing model 10-01003.

https://www.crracing.com/mustang_radiator_crossflow_module_64_66_50_coyote_2_row_single_pass_power_steering_cooler_spal_dual
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Coyote Headers

Heidts offers Coyote headers that compliment their suspension kit. Not a lot of room, but I managed to install the headers from under the vehicle. I plan on having them ceramic coated and bolt them to the engine prior to the final installation. Lesson learned.



Passenger side



Starter position





Passenger side





Driver side
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Oil Cooler Lines

Since I had to alter the alternator position, it looks like I may potentially use a different remote oil adapter. I was able to configure a workable 10 AN hose setup, but not sure how I feel about this routing. The research continues.







Oil bulkhead, 90 degree 10 AN fittings drilled and mounted through the radiator support.



Remote oil cooler, thermostat, and coolant tank mounted. A stock 2017 Mustang GT comes with a degassing tank since the radiator elevation is lower than the engine block. However, with this system my radiator-fill cap is the highest point within the cooling system, so an overflow tank will be ok for my application. I went with a Canton aluminum expansion tank, 80-200.



Power steering reservoir mounted.
 

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Once the crossmember, transmission mount, and T56 were bolted up, it was apparent that the T56 was pushing up against the floor pan at the shifter and along the floor support crossmember.


You can see where the T56 is touching the floor support, which will be notched after the engine is pulled. I still need to determine the transmission angle, but visually the angle looks much improved.
I have seriously cut my floor support and hoping that is the only thing I will run into.
 

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Heidts offers Coyote headers that compliment their suspension kit. Not a lot of room, but I managed to install the headers from under the vehicle. I plan on having them ceramic coated and bolt them to the engine prior to the final installation. Lesson learned.



Passenger side



Starter position





Passenger side





Driver side
Do the Heidts header contact anywhere? Is there ample clearance everywhere for engine movement?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Header Clearance

Do the Heidts header contact anywhere? Is there ample clearance everywhere for engine movement?
Passenger header has ample clearance of about 3/8" minimum. The driver side header has about 1/8" between one of the tubes and the left frame rail. With a little bit of grinding on the header, and taking advantage of the play within the engine mount perches, we can gain a total of about 1/4 of an inch, which could be enough. The reality, there is very little room! The engine mounts use polyurethane, so there isn't going to be much movement.
 
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