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I see you have not posted in a while, spending too much time with the new truck I'll bet. I have my new front clip from TCP waiting to be installed, hope to get started next week. I have been reviewing my parts plan and noting that I need to check compatibility between different vendors parts prior to purchase. I am looking at using the FrontRunner accessory drive from Vintage Air to allow me to add a compact PS pump. When checking with TCP regarding compatibility, they provided a spec for the GPH for the PS pump to be compatible with their rack, helpful, just need to order a part to restrict flow to between 2.0 and 2.8 GPH, so no issue. I expressed my plan to have a hydroboost power brake assist and they responded that it was not needed with their brake packages. I was a bit surprised, the Coyote builds I see here, like yours, and those of aftermarket car builders like Revology are using hydroboost brakes. What is your opinion on the need for PB assist? I want to make sure that I have sufficient braking force without having to stand on the pedal. I have hydroboost brakes in my Factory Five Cobra that were transplanted from a 2004 Mach 1, I like the effort and feel. My feeling is that I want to continue with my plan and install the hydroboost. Any feedback you can provide on the subject would be appreciated.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Power assist?

I see you have not posted in a while, spending too much time with the new truck I'll bet. I have my new front clip from TCP waiting to be installed, hope to get started next week. I have been reviewing my parts plan and noting that I need to check compatibility between different vendors parts prior to purchase. I am looking at using the FrontRunner accessory drive from Vintage Air to allow me to add a compact PS pump. When checking with TCP regarding compatibility, they provided a spec for the GPH for the PS pump to be compatible with their rack, helpful, just need to order a part to restrict flow to between 2.0 and 2.8 GPH, so no issue. I expressed my plan to have a hydroboost power brake assist and they responded that it was not needed with their brake packages. I was a bit surprised, the Coyote builds I see here, like yours, and those of aftermarket car builders like Revology are using hydroboost brakes. What is your opinion on the need for PB assist? I want to make sure that I have sufficient braking force without having to stand on the pedal. I have hydroboost brakes in my Factory Five Cobra that were transplanted from a 2004 Mach 1, I like the effort and feel. My feeling is that I want to continue with my plan and install the hydroboost. Any feedback you can provide on the subject would be appreciated.

Alan
Hi, yup, I've been having way too much fun with the Raptor. I've done some work on the 66 Convertible and definitely need to catch up on my posts. My Dad has a 66 Fastback with a 5.0 EFI crate engine pushing around 400 hp with a t5 and he has manual disc brakes with manual steering. He loves having no power assist for his "weekend warrior" crusies. It's fun for sure, but in my opinion, it can get a bit tiring driving the beast! The majority of these vintage cars were sold without power steering and manual brakes, so having power assist really comes down to your driving preference in a sub 3000 pound vehicle. If you want more of a modern feel for the car, go with power assist. Personally, if you are pushing 400+ hp, I feel much safer having nimble and effortless steering and braking to go with my hyper sensitive drive by wire accelerator pedal. Also, if you are going with larger than stock rims and rubber, something like a 235/45/17, you will want power assist steering. I may be biased, but if you are building a Vintage Mustang with a Coyote engine, which is the best engineeered naturally aspirated V8 on the planet, you should have matching tech for steering and brakes! Just my humble opinion. :)
 

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Sorry, I did not mean to steal your thread, but my question posted in the build forum was moved because it was not part of a build thread. Anyway, I agree with you 100% and do plan to go with a hydroboost solution. Revology uses a system from Hydratech, so I will follow the same route. With a power booster installed, I can always dial back the assist. If the manual brakes were not to my liking, not much choice but to start over with a different solution. I think TCP believes in their solution and the MCs they sell are Wilwood and of course they want you buy all of your parts through them. Since I will already being adding a PS pump, other than the plumbing, the addition of power assist to the brakes are not a big deal. Also I already have hydroboost brakes in my Cobra replica. I like the feel and performance so I rather go with a known solution than an unknown one.

Thanks,

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Charge Motion Control Valve Vacuum

I finished connecting the manifold vacuum for the charge motion control valve system. Attached is a factory diagram of a Mustang GT.





Photo taken prior to modification.

I wanted to pull vacuum from behind the throttle body since I had a modified intake. Also, I wanted this setup to be covered by the engine cover. I modified the factory CMCV factory tubing and tied them into the two of the three stock vacuum ports on the front of the manifold post throttle body.



On the left (passenger side), I inserted a ½” to 3/8” Tee fitting into the catch can return line for the rear CMCV reservoir. The center vacuum port is capped and not used. To the right (driver side), I inserted another Tee fitting into the EFI bypass fuel regulator vacuum line for the CMCV actuator assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Convertible Trim Quarter Panels

I spent a day assembling the interior convertible quarter panels and fitting them to the structure. There are no pre existing guide factory holes so I took my time measuring prior to drilling. The back seat dropped right in. I may need to trim the door sill plates a little once it comes to the final interior assembly, but overall I’m very happy with the fit.





I need to figure out a modification for the interior quarter panels that will be compatible with the four-point roll bar. I could possibly run the three point seat belt mounted onto the roll bar through the ashtray slot. It’s one more thing to add to the design list.

 

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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
Disassembly, Organization, AC Brackets, Prepping Parts For Powder Coat



Catching up on a few posts. I pulled the engine a couple of weeks ago. The structure is back at R3 Performance for some “adjustments.” I spent a couple of days organizing and condensing parts.



During the first install, I had to mildly modify the Vintage Air evaporator brackets. Now that the AC unit was removed, I decided it was best to media blast, prime, and give a good coat of the Eastwood Chassis Black Paint. I apologize if I am boring you with the little stuff. I know its simple, but I post to remind myself of all the little things that add up and take hours on a restoration.



Vintage Air Evaporator brackets. I also repainted the drier and condenser brackets.



Interior facing side.



Firewall side.

Spent about a day media blasting and preparing: exterior trim, door handles, taillights, door handles, rear window handles, and trunk mounted battery tray for black powder coat. Chrome is timeless and generally I love it, but there will be very little chrome on this particular restoration.





What do you think of these LED headlights? The out ringer illuminates in white and or amber. Might be interesting to wire the amber ring into a turn signal?

 

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New member, just saw your build thread for the first time. Great work! I think the halo around the headlight would be a cool turn signal, as you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Urethane Spray On Truck Bed-Liner Test



“Bed-liner” spray is extremely durable and I am considering using it on the underside of my Mustang fenders, wheel wells, and transmission tunnel. People are spraying this protective coating on just about everything and coating entire vehicles. Line-X is probably the most popular brand out there. Eastwood, and Gator Guard sell kits, but I decided to purchase and test the U-Pol Black Urethane bed liner kit on my trucks white wheel wells.





Remove the fender flares, mask, sand with 180 grit sandpaper, scuff with a scotch-bright pad, blow off with compressed air, tack rag, wipe with Isopropyl alcohol, mix in the hardener, shake for three minutes, and spray with 40-60 PSI. Flash off is about 45-60 minutes between coats.





I went a little heavier than necessary applying three coats. Altogether, I spent about 6 hours on this daily project. I’m very pleased the final aesthetic and extreme durability.

U-Pol website

U-POL - Products

Manufacturer Instructions

http://www.backroadsvanner.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Raptor-datasheet-US.pdf
 

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Cam you provide details on the headlamps?

Thx, Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #131
LED headlights

Cam you provide details on the headlamps?

Thx, Clint
Hi, I don't have the exact information in front of me, but the Mustang uses 7" inch headlamps. I acquired a few sets on Ebay. If you search for "Jeep LED headlight" or "7 CREE headlights" you will literally have dozens of creative options!
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Kick Panels

I decided to assemble the kick panels prior to modifying my interior quarter panels. The quarters need to be modified to accommodate the roll bar and there might be a design aesthetic that I can carry over. I have the pony style interior kick panels with black essex carpet and stainless trim. I painted trim black. Front speakers will be in the door panels and dash pad.



Drill five holes for the pony trim retaining tabs.



Black Essex pony interior carpet kit. Spray glue and clamp.



I’ll trim the excess vinyl during the final assembly with the doorsills.
 

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What do you think of these LED headlights? The out ringer illuminates in white and or amber. Might be interesting to wire the amber ring into a turn signal?
I have been looking at a similar set-up for my 67 project. I like the look as well as the functionality of having a bright light @ night. If you convert the amber to a turn signal, you could use the turn signal mount as a driving/fog lamp if you don't have GT grill lamps.

-- Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Headlights

I have been looking at a similar set-up for my 67 project. I like the look as well as the functionality of having a bright light @ night. If you convert the amber to a turn signal, you could use the turn signal mount as a driving/fog lamp if you don't have GT grill lamps.

-- Mike
Great minds think alike. I'm still researching and exploring a few options to substitute the factory GT fog lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Back Seat Disassembly

Moving onto the original back seat. I was considering looking for a replacement, but I figure I would disassemble and see what could be restored and reused.







The seat back top is rusty. The seat bottom frame is surprisingly in much better condition. Driver side spring is missing.



Peeling back the layers of a mummy.





I don’t think I will be able to reuse the padding due to mold and stain damage. Leaky rag top.



The burlap doesn’t and wire support doesn’t look reusable either.





The bare rusty seat frames.



Someone still appreciates the padding.
 

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Reproduction Boss 429 brake booster wedge

Where did you pick up the reproduction Boss 429 brake booster wedge? I am going to need one down the road for my Coyote installation.

Thanks,

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Back Seat Frame Restoration



The seat frames cleaned up nicely after media blasting and sanding. I pulled a missing seat spring from the T code coupe.





The frames still had some mild in spots rust, so I used Por-15 Metal Prep and Por-15 Rust Preventive Coating Paint. Once dried, I’m impressed with how rock solid this paint is. Painted with a topcoat with Eastwood Chassis Black Paint.





 

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Where did you pick up the reproduction Boss 429 brake booster wedge? I am going to need one down the road for my Coyote installation.

Thanks,

Alan
Alan,

I replied to your PM regarding the booster wedge. Hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Back Seat Restoration Continued

The bottom of the back seat burlap and loom wires had extensive mildew damage. The top seat back burlap and metal looms would literally dissolve in your hands. I searched the web for some viable replacements and came up with the following strategy.



Back seat bottom





Back seat top

I purchased a roll of hardware cloth 36in x10ft with 1/4 in mesh opening and sandwiched it between heavy-duty burlap. I cut to match the stock seat burlap and loom wires. I framed the hardware cloth with Aluminum rods. I bent back the sharp edges and wrapped the ends in tape to eliminate anything that could dig into the seat foam.



Dacron upholstery grade polyester batting to replicate the frame padding.



I haven’t been able to locate any stock reproduction seat foam for a convertible. Making my own from high 2in density urethane foam.



I don’t know the exact name of the upholstery wire looms, but it looks reusable.

Using my disassembly photographs as reference, I hog ringed my burlap and hardware cloth to the seat frame in stock positions.





Bach seat top.





Back seat bottom. The seat will probably feel a little firmer using the hardware cloth. Ready for foam, heating elements, and upholstery.
 
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