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Looks like good candidate for full floorboard replacement. I patched mine, and patched again. I would probably been better off replacing the whole floor board but at the time I was just starting out and too intimidated by the thought of cutting the whole thing out.
 

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The floors look about the same condition as mine were...I agree with HuntingKY, best to do a one-piece floorpan there(also a good time to do torque boxes and convertible rockers if you want aditional rigidity since you will likely need to replace the front floor pan extensions if they are like the rest of the floors). I also patched mine a piece at a time, which does have advantages, but in the end is a lot more work and not best for a show quality restoration.
 

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Wow, just torch a hole to get at the grease fittings. Good thing they didn't have hand grenades available. I guess they didn't know right angle grease fittings can be had for less than $1 each. They aren't too hard to install without any disassembly other than to take the old ones out first.
 

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I got a lot of mine through CJPony. I had to replace my entire interior due to one of the previous owners stripping it all out. You can see what I got on this site in "66 bucket coupe".
 

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Nice work and progress. Based on your photographs, I don't think you need to replace the entire floor. You probably need to pull the seat risers, but you may may need to only patch the RH and back part of the floor pan. How does the plan look under the back seat?
 

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Looks like another Tahoe Turquoise car. Nice!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Under the rear seat is solid but under the seat riser has a lot of rust. I will replace the full length on the passenger side but wont have to on the driver side
 

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Thanks for the shock tower repair pics. That’s pretty much what I was expecting, but it’s inspiring to see pics. My daughter’s 66 has the same holes and I’m trying to talk myself into messing with that.
 
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