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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Selling my 1966 Mustang Coupe with Explorer 5.0, automatic, 8.8 rear with 4 wheel disc brakes. About 5000 miles on the build. Recently back from a 3000 mile trip where I shipped it to San Francisco and drove down the Pacific Coast Highway to LA, then Route 66 to Missouri and back here where it averaged nearly 20 mpg (like 19.8).

Driveline-Originally a 6-cyl/3-sp it has been converted to a 5.0/4R70W 4-speed automatic from a 2000 Explorer (so GT40-P heads and Cobra style intake) in OBD2 form so it retains better diagnostics than an OBD1 Mustang setup and keeps the EDIS coilpacks instead of a distributor. New Motorcraft thermostat, water pump, Melling oil pump, pickup, and Cloyes roller timing chain. New Motorcraft wires and plugs. New crank trigger, cam position sensor and IAC valve “while they were off”. New Bosch O2 sensors. HiPo K-code exhaust manifolds (repros) with Arvinode chambered exhaust from Waldron. ’69 BB aluminum radiator with dual 2-speed Ford (Contour) electric fans. Explorer auxiliary transmission cooler also. New Continental belt, all Gates hoses, belt tensioner, and idler.

Suspension/Steering- Granada disc brakes on front with new rotors and new USA Timkin bearings. Rebuilt calipers and new hoses. Fox body brake booster conversion and SN95 dual section master cylinder. New custom brake lines front and rear. New (67L style-bigger output shaft) Borgeson power steering box with new MOOG tie rods/sleeves and a new drag link and idler. New lower control arms/ball joints, upper ball joints and MOOG upper A-arm pivots. Shelby/Arning suspension drop performed. New front springs and poly torsion rod bushings. New poly sway bar bushings. New shocks. New rear springs with poly bushings. Aluminum driveshaft. Narrowed Explorer 8.8 31-spline differential with 3.73 gear and Trac Lok with new Ford clutches and Motorcraft brake pads. KH 14x6 Magnum 500 style wheels with 215/70/14 tires plus 1 for a spare. Floor mounted parking brake handle from late Mustang.

Fuel-New 22 Gal (’69) fuel tank from Tanks Inc. with internal sump for Walbro fuel pump and an ISSPRO floatless sending unit. New fuel lines to the front.

Wiring-Trunk mounted battery with dedicated engine ground cable and disconnect. New aftermarket wiring harness inside with mini-fuses and also much of the loads put on the Explorer underhood fuse box/relay center. NOS Motorcraft ignition switch, new Delco headlight switch and dimmer switch. Hella H4 Halogen conversion headlights with relays for max power (and takes load off the headlight switch). New aftermarket tilt steering column. Has later F150 variable speed wiper conversion. Voltmeter instead of Ammeter in stock cluster. Warning lights for brake, alternator, oil pressure, and service engine.

Interior-2007 Mustang front seats (non power-but working lumbar) and seat belts with shoulder belts. Currently has a leather driver/cloth passenger in it. I have a matching cloth driver seat. Rear fold-down seat upper from 2000 Mustang (I have original upper). The lower is the original frame with 2000 cloth stretched over it. New carpet and door panels. New rear window rubbers. New window felts/"cat whiskers". All 4 window mechanisms refreshed and all new rollers. New firewall insulation. Heater box completely rebuilt with new brass heater core. Variable speed fan controller. Door hinges all rebuilt with new bushings and pins.

General-The body is kinda rough, but is roughly 97% rust free. Paint is good from 30 feet at dusk. Floor pans were replaced as well as both lower rear quarters and outer trunk pans and RH inner trunk pan. The core support and right front apron are also new. The right cowl has been repaired without removing the outer cowl but still leaks a little bit so it has a cowl cover. Most of these sheetmetal replacements were the Canadian parts if available, not Chinese ones. The rest of the outer sheetmetal is OEM Ford except the front lower valence and stone guard. Both front fenders have had their lower rear corners replaced. New front bumper (2004 vintage). Customized MonteCarlo bar and Heim braces to clear the 5.0 intake and coilpacks.

Lots of other small touches like better courtesy lighting, High brake light, LED bulbs, trunk light, vintage radio with new amp and 4 speakers, etc. To really complete it in its current look; it needs a headliner, windshield, and door seals. In short, an updated fun reliable car that turns heads but you don’t have to worry about every scratch or ding. It starts well, stops well, goes well. There is a build thread on it with more pics. Comes with a bunch of leftover parts including the original cluster in case you don't like the voltmeter and oil pressure light. $14,500 Located in Chattanooga, TN.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You just posted your road trip in this car and now your selling?!
I have had the car almost 20 years, but it has only been driving for about a year. I originally bought it to fix for my wife but she didn't want it. Fixed the floors and did a 5.0 swap to the point it needed a couple days work to run and then got a new job in a new town in 2005. Thought my 2 sons might be interested in cars, but they were not. So I did with them what they wanted to do until they left home. Car sat in the corner of the garage and I gathered parts. Then I brought it out when they were gone and finished it expressly for a RT66 trip. It was basically purpose built for a 3000 mile road trip in a classic car. I wanted a very stock looking '66 Mustang like my classmates had in High School, but with a modern driveline for mileage and more safety where I could improve it. I wanted rock solid reliability (within reason), with parts readily available along the way in junkyards and parts stores. I wanted as many OEM parts as possible. I wanted to keep it Ford, but not cut it up for a rack and pinion front or Coyote swap. I wanted to not have to worry about door dings and hotel parking lots and dirt/bumpy roads. So this car was built to be strong but not particularly stand out. I feel that by finishing a 3000 mile trip with no major mechanical issues that I achieved what I set out to do. I have other cars and projects, but this one really does not fit my long term needs so it needs to go. That is why I am selling it, not because there is anything wrong with it, not that I don't want to "finish" it (whatever that means), but I just can't keep them all. I tried to spend money where it would make it reliable and better than original. I tried to keep as much of the character of the car as I could but still make it safer and more comfortable. I know the car does not appeal to everyone, but maybe the right person is out there that will see the potential in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not getting any interest. Need some expert advice on why. Is it too expensive? EFI conversion not desirable? My build choices along the way made it undesirable? It's a good car for somebody I think. I know it is not for just anyone though. It's been very reliable. It's quick. It stops well. It gets good fuel mileage. It sounds good. It has improved safety. Most of the hard rust work is done (floors and lower quarters). There is nothing hidden by a quickie paint and bondo job-all the warts are there to see-which is how I like to buy cars. Just curious what advice people may give on the best way to sell it. What could I change easily that might make it more desirable?
 

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It might be the condition of the paint and your location. If I could offer one piece of advise (and I mean no disrespect) Id would loose that Chevy steering wheel ASAP. It gives the impression the car is cobbled together with parts that aren't right.
 

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I just bought something similar without quite as many mods but a lot more sheetmetal had been replaced. It's still in primer. I like the mods you have done but when it comes to selling the presentation is more important to more people than the modifications. You need to find the right buyer and that can take some time. If you were to get paint on the car it would probably sell a lot faster. And get rid of the Chevy wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It might be the condition of the paint and your location. If I could offer one piece of advise (and I mean no disrespect) Id would loose that Chevy steering wheel ASAP. It gives the impression the car is cobbled together with parts that aren't right.
Fair enough. All the aftermarket steering columns I found use GM splines. The steering wheel on there is a leather wrapped one and is pretty comfortable. My thought was that whoever bought the car might want to change steering wheels to make it "theirs". I tried to be very clear with part brands in the description. I tried to spend money on high quality suspension and steering, wheel bearings, belts, hoses, timing chain and oil pump...things like that to make it reliable. There are some aftermarket parts used to save money-like the column. I had a '67 straight column but it needed more parts than a new aftermarket tilt cost. Or I could have found an expensive '67 tilt and adapted it but what would that have really gotten me? Still could not use the original wheel because the outer hubs are not the same diameter as the '66 was and so you have to go aftermarket wheel. But your point is heard. Maybe I will get an aftermarket steering wheel and put on it. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just bought something similar without quite as many mods but a lot more sheetmetal had been replaced. It's still in primer. I like the mods you have done but when it comes to selling the presentation is more important to more people than the modifications. You need to find the right buyer and that can take some time. If you were to get paint on the car it would probably sell a lot faster. And get rid of the Chevy wheel.
One potential buyer scenario I though of was the guy that bought a Dynacorn body and needed all the running gear and an original VIN. Then all the paint and body is wasted.

I have been burned in the past buying cars with cover up paint jobs. I just can't bring myself to paint it yet. And when you do it is the wrong color. I would so rather buy a car and know what I was getting under the skin than have to hope it was done right before it was covered up. But I hear you. Maybe paint is the direction to go. Thanks!
 

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One potential buyer scenario I though of was the guy that bought a Dynacorn body and needed all the running gear and an original VIN. Then all the paint and body is wasted.

I have been burned in the past buying cars with cover up paint jobs. I just can't bring myself to paint it yet. And when you do it is the wrong color. I would so rather buy a car and know what I was getting under the skin than have to hope it was done right before it was covered up. But I hear you. Maybe paint is the direction to go. Thanks!
While I agree that is not the case with a lot of buyers. They think of paint as more work than an engine rebuild. If you're worried about the color then just go with a safe color, and factory colors are the safest. And sometime the color on the door tag is the one to go with even if it's not your favorite because both you and the buyer can point to the tag and go, well, that's the way it came from the factory (never mind the 5.0 under the hood).
 

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I think I see mismatched seats in there too. If your going to replace that wheel, Id think going an extra few steps with an interior spruce up would go along way in helping the curb appeal of that car. Presentation is everything.
 

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I think it’s a cool build, and I for one value the Explorer parts more than a shiny paint job. I also think that sinking money into cosmetics is going to cut deeply into your take home money. It’d be easy to spend $10k+ to get a few more grand for it. Not worth it.

The steering wheel is a travesty. A Forever Sharp wheel (cheap) with a pony center button on it would do a lot for it.

Where else do you have it listed? I would think you’d get a bite on Facebook eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I see mismatched seats in there too. If your going to replace that wheel, Id think going an extra few steps with an interior spruce up would go along way in helping the curb appeal of that car. Presentation is everything.
I have the matching cloth driver seat to match the passenger, but I really like the black leather. Wish I could have gotten the matching one, but it was gone. I thought about re-upholstering both but with what? Stock 2007 black? Stock 1966 blue to "match" the original? Pony upgrade? Leather or cloth? What if the buyer hates late model seats with headrests?....... Again, to me, no matter the choice I make it will be wrong to the right buyer and I could blow a lot of money for nothing. That is my thought process anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I think it’s a cool build, and I for one value the Explorer parts more than a shiny paint job. I also think that sinking money into cosmetics is going to cut deeply into your take home money. It’d be easy to spend $10k+ to get a few more grand for it. Not worth it.

The steering wheel is a travesty. A Forever Sharp wheel (cheap) with a pony center button on it would do a lot for it.

Where else do you have it listed? I would think you’d get a bite on Facebook eventually.
I also thought that the Explorer stuff fully functioning would be an attractive feature, but not so much so far. It's fast with the stock cam. With a real cam it would be even more so.

Since you all hate the steering wheel, I will take that to heart. I kind of liked the feel of it, but apparently the look is overshadowing the function. Thanks!

It is listed here, FB Marketplace, Mustang Steve, and Stangnet.
 

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I have the matching cloth driver seat to match the passenger, but I really like the black leather. Wish I could have gotten the matching one, but it was gone. I thought about re-upholstering both but with what? Stock 2007 black? Stock 1966 blue to "match" the original? Pony upgrade? Leather or cloth? What if the buyer hates late model seats with headrests?....... Again, to me, no matter the choice I make it will be wrong to the right buyer and I could blow a lot of money for nothing. That is my thought process anyway.
I get what your saying. But stop and ask yourself this question...what would you think if you rolled up on a perspective Mustang for sale and the first thing you see is two miss matched seat covers and a Chevy steering wheel? If it's me, my mind would immediately think what else is wrong with this car? It's all perception.
 

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I get what your saying. But stop and ask yourself this question...what would you think if you rolled up on a perspective Mustang for sale and the first thing you see is two miss matched seat covers and a Chevy steering wheel? If it's me, my mind would immediately think what else is wrong with this car? It's all perception.
Hey now, he did stick the blue oval over the Chevy logo!
 

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Dimples
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It is listed here, FB Marketplace, Mustang Steve, and Stangnet.
I’m surprised you haven’t gotten more action on FB marketplace. I wonder if your asking price is scaring people off. I don’t think it’s way off base, but there are C codes with shiny paint in that range. You’re probably limited to a small piece of the market that values well done driveline work over the aforementioned shinyness.

I don’t know what you have in it, but I bet you’d see more action closer to $12-13k. I’m sure that’s not what you want to hear, but the cosmetic stuff goes a long way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am taking your advice and buying a wood-rim steering wheel and will either put the cloth drivers seat back in or locate a leather passenger seat. My ask is close to what I have in it, but I knew I would not likely get it all back. It was part of an adventure so that is hard to put a price on. Really appreciate all the advice. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I get what your saying. But stop and ask yourself this question...what would you think if you rolled up on a perspective Mustang for sale and the first thing you see is two miss matched seat covers and a Chevy steering wheel? If it's me, my mind would immediately think what else is wrong with this car? It's all perception.
I think it is all in the buyer. If I rolled up on this car if it was what I was looking for as an EFI restomod, I would consider it like this. First, I want a solid foundation. Second, I want good bones underneath. Third-Driveline. Fourth-Interior. Fifth-Body/paint. Now body is probably first as far as will I go see it, but last after I get there. To me function is way more important than form-but I fully realize that not everyone thinks that way.

First-solid foundation-rust eliminated or at least under control. That is done. It does have a bit in the drivers door where it has been patched but is under control. It does need an outer wheel arch if you are going to paint it. I used as much original sheetmetal as I could. I would rather have the original drivers door with the tag and some rust that shuts well instead of a new offshore door. The passenger door is from a '65 and is as nice a door as I have ever seen. No rust anywhere. Rust is so hard to fix. So this is where I start. Either its good or not. Second, good bones underneath-The suspension is all new, good poly bushings where it made sense, MOOG steering parts instead of China, USA Timkin bearings instead of offshore, all 4 new springs, shortened 8.8 31 spline disk brake rear with new Motorsports clutches and outer National seals not just throw it back together, I bought Motorcraft rear brake pads and searched hard for fronts but they just were not out there, Aluminum driveshaft with real Spicer u-joints not offshore generic. I want a car that will drive nice and hold an alignment. I would appreciate that it had been greased. Third-Driveline, 2000 Explorer 5.0/4R70W is arguably the most advanced SB Ford made since it was the last one. The transmissions seem to hold up well. This one is unique in many ways, I don't know anyone else who has put one of these in a front sump application and left the EDIS. The SES light functions as it should-this is not as I have seen "just ignore that light" or "what light" installation. I would value that a lot. To me, nothing says I don't care more than a dash lit up like a Christmas Tree on modern cars or cheap aftermarket gauges under the dash in a full gauge car. While I was looking at the engine I would see the shiny new aluminum radiator and dual 2-speed fans. I would appreciate Gates hoses instead of generic flex hoses or no-names. I would see the Borgeson steering and either love it or hate it. Fourth-Interior, I would see the missing headliner, GM steering wheel, and mismatched seats and either think "it's all there and it works as a driver" or "that has to go as soon as I get home". I'm a big guy, I would like the tilt column. If I knew how hard it is to put a headliner in I would understand why it is not there (and if I was going to paint it it would come back out anyway). I would appreciate the new wiring with headlight relays. I like a voltmeter in the stock cluster instead of an aftermarket digital dash (but the way it is wired would be easy to change to that if desired). I would appreciate all the windows rolling up and down as they do and new cat whiskers. I would notice the door hinges were solid. If I valued a working parking brake(or it was an inspection requirement in my state), I would appreciate the handle. Fifth-Body. You either love it or hate it. After seeing photos you either like the semi-patina look or you have plans for it. I like that it is like it is. I am hiding nothing under shiny new paint. If I am buying a car I either want great paint with provenance or I want it so I know exactly what I am getting. In short, if I were buying it I would see and appreciate where the money was spent on quality items and that maintenance was done. I can buy new wheels or a steering wheel or change the seats pretty easy. I could add a digital dash in an afternoon if I wanted that look. If I accept the paint as it is, I don't want to go back through the suspension or driveline-I just want to turn the key and drive. That is how I got here. I will take the advice and change the seat and steering wheel. Thanks!
 
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