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Mark ... I read your comments over and over to see if I or we could help you find this car a new home.I will start off by saying I have been building vintage Mustangs for the last 45 years. So this is thru and old mans set of eyes. Some of my earliest cars to some of the latest builds including a couple of conversions like yours. A wise old man told me 40 plus years ago when you are done with who will your car appeal to.? I thought everything I did was an upgrade and maybe it was but others didnt like my upgrades. So when it came time for a new home I listened intently what others thought. Most people want an original type car with LIGHT custom touches that can be changed out if desired. So on a similar engine swap as yours I found people hated I know thats a strong word my modern drivetrain install. I chose HO 5.0 5 speed set ups. The engine compartment looks like Frankensteins wife with all that going on. So I removed everything that looked like it was modern and put a 4v carb and aluminum intake with all vintage components and accessories. It was much better recieved everywhere I took them. They also sold much faster. A quick run down to the car wash with a vacuum, remove all dirt and debris inside and out will make it more presentable. Tidy up everything like trunk area, wiring, install a spare tire on wheel, it wouldnt roll too good without one. Devils in the details. Best of luck on the sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Mark ... I read your comments over and over to see if I or we could help you find this car a new home.I will start off by saying I have been building vintage Mustangs for the last 45 years. So this is thru and old mans set of eyes. Some of my earliest cars to some of the latest builds including a couple of conversions like yours. A wise old man told me 40 plus years ago when you are done with who will your car appeal to.? I thought everything I did was an upgrade and maybe it was but others didn't like my upgrades. So when it came time for a new home I listened intently what others thought. Most people want an original type car with LIGHT custom touches that can be changed out if desired. So on a similar engine swap as yours I found people hated I know that's a strong word my modern drivetrain install. I chose HO 5.0 5 speed set ups. The engine compartment looks like Frankenstein's wife with all that going on. So I removed everything that looked like it was modern and put a 4v carb and aluminum intake with all vintage components and accessories. It was much better received everywhere I took them. They also sold much faster. A quick run down to the car wash with a vacuum, remove all dirt and debris inside and out will make it more presentable. Tidy up everything like trunk area, wiring, install a spare tire on wheel, it wouldn't roll too good without one. Devils in the details. Best of luck on the sale.
I am listening. Over the next week or so when parts come in I will be changing to a wood-rim steering wheel. I will put back the drivers cloth seat so they match. I will put a tire on the rim for a spare (was left without because wheels are so personal and next owner may want to change). I will wash the engine and vacuum the trunk and clean up the wiring in the trunk.

This car was not primarily built to sell. It was built 1-to honor the memory of the guy I bought it from (which I have not talked about, but I feel I have done) and 2-to go 3000 miles on RT66 roads reliably. I fully realize that it is not a "no apologies" car. I have one of those too and it would at least double or triple the price. It's not a show car, fastback, or convertible. But it was almost perfect for the road trip. Now that it has served it's purpose for me, I want to find the next owner. I tried to be careful to not make radical mods. I wanted a very stock appearing '66 Mustang. But I wanted EFI. I wanted disc brakes. I wanted better steering-although I know the Borgeson box has a love it or hate it rep. I wanted head rest seats and shoulder belts. There is very little that I have done that could not be put back stock if somebody wanted to. But we all know that nobody is taking V8 converted cars and swapping 4 -lugs and 6-cyls back in-it makes no economical sense.

I know an EFI conversion definitely divides the buyers. There is no way I will convert to a carb though. Its hard to argue with 20 mpg with 3.73 gears and automatic-and be as quick as it is. You will most likely not do all of that with a carb. We could go round and round on carb vs: EFI but I think it boils down to either you like it or you don't. I do. Most everyone wants(ed?) Explorer heads and intake, they just don't want to keep the OBD2 and EDIS. Most people who read this ad will have no idea how much effort it was to keep those things-and still have a functioning SES lamp. Many will not know that OBD2 is so far superior to Ford OBD1 it's not even funny. They won't know that they can see live data with OBD2 so if they had to do diagnostics how much better it is.

When I try to objectively look at the newest engine photo, I don't see "Frankenstein's Wife". I see a paper towel that is no longer there. It looks dirty, I can fix that. I can repaint the air intake tube. The MonteCarlo bar is what it is. It has to clear the steering reservoir and coil-packs and it has to have room for the air intake to pass through. I would take it off but it is holding the shock towers apart the correct distance. Without it I don't think the hood will close. I could remake it, but I don't know what I would do differently. I don't see anything else that stands out to me. Do you not like the heim joint braces? The fan speed switch? Fuse box? Obviously since nobody is looking at it they don't like it either. Maybe the changes from the first paragraph will turn the tide. I appreciate the advice. I really do. Thank you!
 

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I have had the car almost 20 years, but it has only been driving for about a year. I originally bought it to fix for my wife but she didn't want it. Fixed the floors and did a 5.0 swap to the point it needed a couple days work to run and then got a new job in a new town in 2005. Thought my 2 sons might be interested in cars, but they were not. So I did with them what they wanted to do until they left home. Car sat in the corner of the garage and I gathered parts. Then I brought it out when they were gone and finished it expressly for a RT66 trip. It was basically purpose built for a 3000 mile road trip in a classic car. I wanted a very stock looking '66 Mustang like my classmates had in High School, but with a modern driveline for mileage and more safety where I could improve it. I wanted rock solid reliability (within reason), with parts readily available along the way in junkyards and parts stores. I wanted as many OEM parts as possible. I wanted to keep it Ford, but not cut it up for a rack and pinion front or Coyote swap. I wanted to not have to worry about door dings and hotel parking lots and dirt/bumpy roads. So this car was built to be strong but not particularly stand out. I feel that by finishing a 3000 mile trip with no major mechanical issues that I achieved what I set out to do. I have other cars and projects, but this one really does not fit my long term needs so it needs to go. That is why I am selling it, not because there is anything wrong with it, not that I don't want to "finish" it (whatever that means), but I just can't keep them all. I tried to spend money where it would make it reliable and better than original. I tried to keep as much of the character of the car as I could but still make it safer and more comfortable. I know the car does not appeal to everyone, but maybe the right person is out there that will see the potential in it
I just did an 800 mile trip in my 68. On period engine, transmission and all :) Did an 8000 mile trip cross country up the west coast and back in my 2016 German car last year (went by much of 66). Guess what, driving 2 weeks in my German car wasn't as exhausting as 2 day in the 68' Mustang by I loved every bit of it. One day I'll cross country to California again in that Mustang. Cause I'm crazy like that.
 

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My observations:

Pricing on Vintage Mustangs is tricky considering the crazy money people are asking for anything with four wheels.

As I buyer looking at your car I would be adding up what it will cost me for body/paint, interior, under hood and trunk detail.

10-15k for body/paint, $1500 interior, $500 trunk, $500 under hood + an insane amount of labor.

At the end of the day, 30-35k for a car with a low 20's value. That's about average.

If it were me, I would be looking for a car that needs nothing in the low 20s vs having to build one myself for 30k+.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I just did an 800 mile trip in my 68. On period engine, transmission and all :) Did an 8000 mile trip cross country up the west coast and back in my 2016 German car last year (went by much of 66). Guess what, driving 2 weeks in my German car wasn't as exhausting as 2 day in the 68' Mustang by I loved every bit of it. One day I'll cross country to California again in that Mustang. Cause I'm crazy like that.
No doubt that a modern car will be more comfortable on a cross-country trip. If I was to pick the best overall for that it would be an SUV. Plenty of space, good ground clearance, good heat and a/c if needed, etc. But that was not the point for me. I wanted to do RT66 in a vintage car. And we had a blast!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
My observations:

Pricing on Vintage Mustangs is tricky considering the crazy money people are asking for anything with four wheels.

As I buyer looking at your car I would be adding up what it will cost me for body/paint, interior, under hood and trunk detail.

10-15k for body/paint, $1500 interior, $500 trunk, $500 under hood + an insane amount of labor.

At the end of the day, 30-35k for a car with a low 20's value. That's about average.

If it were me, I would be looking for a car that needs nothing in the low 20s vs having to build one myself for 30k+.
I don't disagree with what you are saying. Paint and body is very expensive. To me a $500 MAACO paint hurts it worse than leaving it as-is. I don't see this car as ever worth a $15K paint job. I see more of a $8-10K job car. But that is where it gets tricky. I don't see a $10K paint job adding $10K to the value. To me somebody will have to like the mods I have done and either like it how it is or be willing to go to the next level and paint it their way (or use it for building a Dynacorn body with original VIN). Even if I did paint it, what color? Original blue to match the door tag? White because it is more forgiving of bodywork? "resale red"? Doing paint just adds yet another love it or hate it divide for potential buyers. I'd rather drop the price and cut my losses now rather than go all-in on paint and hold the car another 6-mo or year to get that done. But I can't get anybody to even look at it so I have to do something. I am going to start with steering wheel, seats, spare, clean up the trunk and engine compartment and see if that helps at all. Thanks!
 

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No no no. Don't paint the car in order to sell it. You'll never get your money back. I don't think that's what he was saying anyway. Hes just pointing out that a perspective buyer would need to factor that in to the purchase price and it would likely be cost prohibitive at your asking price.

Clean up the engine bay, interior, and trunk, as nice as you can and make the car presentable as possible. That's your best bet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
No no no. Don't paint the car in order to sell it. You'll never get your money back. I don't think that's what he was saying anyway. Hes just pointing out that a perspective buyer would need to factor that in to the purchase price and it would likely be cost prohibitive at your asking price.

Clean up the engine bay, interior, and trunk, as nice as you can and make the car presentable as possible. That's your best bet.
I don't want to paint it, and that would be my last resort to sell. Price is negotiable, but I have only had a few even talk to me about it to get close to that point.

While I am asking, what about the car exterior photos. Should I get rid of all the RT66 photos and take new ones? I kind of thought it was neat to be able to see it with some iconic RT66 scenes in the background, but maybe that is a mistake too?

I see what to do in the trunk. But the engine compartment is where I need a fresh eye. In the photo in the original ad (below again) I see a rag that is no longer there. I see a dirty engine. I can pressure wash. I can repaint the air intake tube. The MonteCarlo bar is what it is. It has to clear the steering reservoir and coil-packs and it has to have room for the air intake to pass through. I could take it off but it is holding the shock towers apart the correct distance. Without it I don't think the hood will close and the alignment will change. I could remake it, but I don't know what I would do differently. I don't see anything else that jumps out to me. Do people not like the heim joint braces? The fan speed switch? Fuse box? A/C delete pulley that is not in use? What stands out as "no way, next"? Or is it the other picture with all the words that shows all the mods but is not the latest update that is objectionable? Maybe I do a new one of those too with everything clean?
 

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Not being insulting so please don't take it that way.

Under the hood looks like you pulled the original engine and dropped a JY engine in.

People want the eye candy, clean, new paint, brightwork.

On my 67, when I removed the 200, I took the engine engine bay down to bare metal. I don't have the 289 in yet, it is on the engine stand with the C4, both fully detailed and ready to drop in.

I don't think it is as much of how you made the 5.0 fit, it's more about aesthetics.

As others have said, clean everything as well as you can, make the interior as nice as you can and stick to your asking price.

In todays market I don't think you can build it for what you have in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Not being insulting so please don't take it that way.

Under the hood looks like you pulled the original engine and dropped a JY engine in.

People want the eye candy, clean, new paint, brightwork.

On my 67, when I removed the 200, I took the engine engine bay down to bare metal. I don't have the 289 in yet, it is on the engine stand with the C4, both fully detailed and ready to drop in.

I don't think it is as much of how you made the 5.0 fit, it's more about aesthetics.

As others have said, clean everything as well as you can, make the interior as nice as you can and stick to your asking price.

In todays market I don't think you can build it for what you have in it.
I'm not insulted at all. As I said before I am very much a function over form guy.

The aprons were painted before the engine install, they are just dirty. I think if I wash it it will look much nicer. But it's hard to have "Eye Candy" on an EFI motor. You can't use just any old valve covers. You don't have a big chrome air cleaner. I left the Heim braces cad plated. Do I paint them? Find chrome sleeves? I can paint the hood springs and clean clean clean.

My ask is very close to what I have in it (I have a spreadsheet), plus some trading that is not valued. So no, I do not think you could build it for what I am asking. Definitely not if you were paying someone to get it this far.
 

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First, I can appreciate the work you put into it and the driveability you created. I can even appreciate your intent.My opinion (insert warning here) is that it is too modern, too “busy” and too “form over function” looking. It looks like you popped the hood on an Explorer, which no one wants to do. Once again, that’s fine for a modern car, but Mustang folks want to see the old stuff, even dirty old stuff or at least blinged out modern stuff. I think that might be why your interest is low. Truth be told, you might fare better if you pulled the motor and trans and sold the “Mustang in good shape” and also have a motor and trans to go with it. I might be talking out my a$$, but that’s my thoughts.
Don’t get me wrong, I totally appreciate what you did, trip and all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
First, I can appreciate the work you put into it and the driveability you created. I can even appreciate your intent.My opinion (insert warning here) is that it is too modern, too “busy” and too “form over function” looking. It looks like you popped the hood on an Explorer, which no one wants to do. Once again, that’s fine for a modern car, but Mustang folks want to see the old stuff, even dirty old stuff or at least blinged out modern stuff. I think that might be why your interest is low. Truth be told, you might fare better if you pulled the motor and trans and sold the “Mustang in good shape” and also have a motor and trans to go with it. I might be talking out my a$$, but that’s my thoughts.
Don’t get me wrong, I totally appreciate what you did, trip and all.
I think you meant "function over form" as I am hearing clearly that my presentation (form) is lacking and that I did too much for driveability (function). And I have heard loud and clear no dirty stuff.

I have been pondering the "it is too modern". If you mean the engine, I sort of get that. EFI conversions are a dividing subject. You either like it or don't. That I understand. But, if you mean the overall car that would be the most hurtful comment of the thread. My goal for the car was a very stock looking '66 Mustang with modern upgrades. From the outside-period correct 14" Ford wheels-no 20s, no hood scoop, no wild graphics, no spoilers, no crazy lights. Arvinode exhaust so pretty period/stock looking. If you look really hard you might see the disc brakes on the rear, but you have to really look. If you look on the inside, still nothing too crazy but a bit less stock. Stock dash cluster and shifter instead of aftermarket. It does have a tilt column and late high back seats. It has an E-brake handle but that is really required for the Explorer rear discs. You can't get enough force with the stock handle-I tried. It has 6x9s in the rear deck but so do a bunch of other Mustangs. It does have a high brake light. I hated them when they first came out, but as time passes they really do help see that a person is braking. The stock brake lights are marginal at best. If that was a dealbreaker for a potential buyer I could unplug it and replace the package tray in an hour. It has shoulder belts. Again safety. They also are pretty easily removable. Engine compartment I sort of get, but even there it has stock HiPo manifolds and a Ford SB. Shocks towers, firewall, trans tunnel all right where they were in '66. No Coyote (or LS) engine, no rack and pinion, no turbo or supercharger. If you pulled the intake and accessories and took a picture it would look a whole lot like the same photo in 1966 so it really is not that wild-but I get it it's not a carb. It does have the Borgeson steering box but I have a late '67 manual box that if a person wanted to go back to manual steering it would be simple. But my contention is that if you close the hood it is a very stock looking car.

I don't see a good path to sell less engine, at least to start with. When I buy a car I cut to the bone if I can't drive it. If you can't drive it you don't know if the brakes (and booster) are good. You don't know how the steering is. You don't know if it is aligned. You don't know how if goes down the road. You don't know if the diff goes clunk. You just don't know a lot of things. I'd get $2000 offers. No, I do not think that is the way to go. I might entertain a drive it and I'll pull the engine option, but not before.
 

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So you are a function over form guy, I understand the effort that goes into building something and the happiness and contentment that it brings. BUT what you are doing now is blending both form and function because most people want good looks with good driveability. Case in point, I come from a racing back ground where people put hundreds of thousands of dollars in boats and cars, they go like hell but look like a horses A--. Eddie Hill was /is a world record holder in both drag cars and boats. His stuff was the fastest on the planet but his stuff had hand prints on white paint jobs, rags, oil, leaking out of everything that held a fluid. Chips, scratches, dings on everything he didnt care! But he wasnt selling he was racing. So you need a new home for your ride- and most people want cleaned, polished, painted, vacuumed, nothing Wonky anywhere. Most people try to carry a THEME on their build, old or new type parts. It appears when you built your ride that you used many parts that were available to you, Explorer, F 150 ,newer mustang, Chevrolet steering column etc. If I was looking for a project my thoughts would be how do I bring it back to at least a day 2 build. Best of luck on getting it down the road to a new home.
 

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I think you meant "function over form" as I am hearing clearly that my presentation (form) is lacking and that I did too much for reliability (function). And I have heard loud and clear no dirty stuff.

I have been pondering the "it is too modern". If you mean the engine, I sort of get that. EFI conversions are a dividing subject. You either like it or don't. That I understand. But, if you mean the overall car that would be the most hurtful comment of the thread. My goal for the car was a very stock looking '66 Mustang with modern upgrades. From the outside-period correct 14" Ford wheels-no 20s, no hood scoop, no wild graphics, no spoilers, no crazy lights. Arvinode exhaust so pretty period/stock looking. If you look really hard you might see the disc brakes on the rear, but you have to really look. If you look on the inside, still nothing too crazy but a bit less stock. Stock dash cluster and shifter instead of aftermarket. It does have a tilt column and late high back seats. It has an E-brake handle but that is really required for the Explorer rear discs. You can't get enough force with the stock handle-I tried. It has 6x9s in the rear deck but so do a bunch of other Mustangs. It does have a high brake light. I hated them when they first came out, but as time passes they really do help see that a person is braking. The stock brake lights are marginal at best. If that was a dealbreaker for a potential buyer I could unplug it and replace the package tray in an hour. It has shoulder belts. Again safety. They also are pretty easily removable. Engine compartment I sort of get, but even there it has stock HiPo manifolds and a Ford SB. Shocks towers, firewall, trans tunnel all right where they were in '66. No Coyote (or LS) engine, no rack and pinion, no turbo or supercharger. If you pulled the intake and accessories and took a picture it would look a whole lot like the same photo in 1966 so it really is not that wild-but I get it it's not a carb. It does have the Borgeson steering box but I have a late '67 manual box that if a person wanted to go back to manual steering it would be simple. But my contention is that if you close the hood it is a very stock looking car.

I don't see a good path to sell less engine, at least to start with. When I buy a car I cut to the bone if I can't drive it. If you can't drive it you don't know if the brakes (and booster) are good. You don't know how the steering is. You don't know if it is aligned. You don't know how if goes down the road. You don't know if the diff goes clunk. You just don't know a lot of things. I'd get $2000 offers. No, I do not think that is the way to go. I might entertain a drive it and I'll pull the engine option, but not before.
Sorry, I did mean function over form. I’m also not advocating that you pull the engine, I’m just saying as a package as it sits I would have issues with it. It needs work inside and out. I don’t like anything under the hood except maybe the short block. That’s not to say what you did is wrong for you, just saying it’s wrong for me. That really doesn’t matter to you, nor should it, except I technically would fall into your “potential buyer” pool since you are selling your car. You asked why it’s not getting offers, these are my reasons why it wouldn’t be getting mine.
Your explanations are sound on what you did, why, and the benefits they provide, but the heart wants what the heart wants. Good luck, I hope like minded souls are out there for you.
 

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Agreed on the general clean up of the engine bay. You say you painted it when you had the engine out, but it sure doesn’t show in the photos. That passenger side engine bay sheet metal looks terrible in that pic. If it’s reasonably recently painted, take the time to clean it up. Put some shine-up stuff on the rubber like the intake tubing, consider painting the upper intake manifold.

You’ve got some things that some Simple Green and a rattle can can make hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars of difference when it comes to a prospective buyer. Maybe it shouldn’t matter that much, but it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So you are a function over form guy, I understand the effort that goes into building something and the happiness and contentment that it brings. BUT what you are doing now is blending both form and function because most people want good looks with good driveability. Case in point, I come from a racing back ground where people put hundreds of thousands of dollars in boats and cars, they go like hell but look like a horses A--. Eddie Hill was /is a world record holder in both drag cars and boats. His stuff was the fastest on the planet but his stuff had hand prints on white paint jobs, rags, oil, leaking out of everything that held a fluid. Chips, scratches, dings on everything he didnt care! But he wasnt selling he was racing. So you need a new home for your ride- and most people want cleaned, polished, painted, vacuumed, nothing Wonky anywhere. Most people try to carry a THEME on their build, old or new type parts. It appears when you built your ride that you used many parts that were available to you, Explorer, F 150 ,newer mustang, Chevrolet steering column etc. If I was looking for a project my thoughts would be how do I bring it back to at least a day 2 build. Best of luck on getting it down the road to a new home.
My theme was old car outside new guts underneath. My theme was 3000 miles of A1A and RT66 with no mechanical issues. I still contend that driving by or across the parking lot you can't tell it is not a bone stock '66. If you walk up to it and look inside you see newer seats, shoulder belts, and a high brake light. It has a 1984 JVC cassette radio so nothing crazy there (dash was cut when I bought it and it had a Sparkomatic so I upgraded). I wish I had done an Aurora conversion on a stock AM radio. But stock gauge cluster, stock shifter. So the theme was stock looking and that hurts the most to hear that I did not achieve that.

As far as parts I used minus the engine/transmission. Rear end is cut down from an Explorer. Its the hot tip as far as I see. Rear discs, 31 spline axles, 8.8 is in the same league as a 9" for a lot less money. I do not see that as a negative. F150 I got delay wipers. Again could be removed in 20 minutes, but why? Delay wipers are SO much better than stock. It has the stock knob so you can't tell anyway. Newer Mustang seats, e-brake handle, dual master cylinder, vapor canister, brake booster, dome light. '69 BB radiator and Contour fans-more cooling over stock. This wasn't just what I found laying around, this was what I sought out to make it better. Most of these are from Mustang tech tips somewhere. Lots of people don't like the seats and steering wheel. I get that, but in 2 hours I could change to whatever you wanted. I didn't see that as such a big deal. I now see that it really is. Chevrolet steering column. All I see out there for aftermarket columns is GM pattern-GM turn signal switch, GM splines for steering wheel. And it's brand new. I'll admit it is not my favorite, but it's what's out there for tilt in a '64-'66. I could have sought a late '67 tilt but WOW they are pricey. I had a '67 straight column I could have rebuilt but after you buy a turn signal switch and bearings for the bottom you have spent some money-and time. And even if I did, the outer collar on a '67 is bigger than a '66 so I couldn't use the stock steering wheel anyway. I'm not positive but I think the outer diameter of the '67 column is bigger than the '66 or aftermarket and would require cutting the dash. I did rewire it with modern blade fuse box. I did purposefully keep the Explorer fuse box to keep loads off the main harness and headlight switch. But, all that said I think the vibe I sent was apparently that this is a cobbled together junkyard car and I can assure you that it is not. Most everything there was very carefully selected. I did use existing parts because they are available and if I needed them on the road they could be found in a junkyard and not 2 days away by mail.

I really appreciate all the feedback. I will make a course correction and see what happens.
 

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i think a good detail and cleaning would go a long way. as an example, don't take this wrong, my engine bay looked like yours, filthy. me and a buddy did some paint and detail in one evening and went from the first pic to the second. a little work goes a long way.

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
i think a good detail and cleaning would go a long way. as an example, don't take this wrong, my engine bay looked like yours, filthy. me and a buddy did some paint and detail in one evening and went from the first pic to the second. a little work goes a long way.

Where did that MonteCarlo bar come from? It is forward and I could probably make that work!
 
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