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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I pulled the engine out of my 66 (converting to v8 from straight 6) and saw much more frame rust than expected. The passenger side doesn’t look too bad, but the drivers side inner rail is pretty much gone from the firewall to the rad support. To replace the frame rail, what will I need to remove? I assume I will need to remove the shock and spring on that side? I cut a piece of the inner off to see what it looked like on the inside of the outer, and it doesn’t look too bad so I’m hoping the outer rail is salvageable. I already purchased the frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Evaluate the tower and aprons. If they are OK, then just replace the rail. But if the bottom edges are rotten on them, just replace the whole assembly.
The bottom of the tower where it meets the rail is rusted in a couple places, but the rest of the tower is in great shape.
Do I need to remove the outer rail and tower to replace the inner? Or can I replace the inner rail without removing anything else if all else is good? Do I have to remove the coil spring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And is there value to keeping the same floor support if I remove the frame rail? Or should I just replace it all? The floor support is in decent shape, but not great.
 

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If it were my project, I'd remove the power train and all the affected suspension components, yes to the spring. You'll need easy access to the area and the removing the spring, removes any tension. Also, do you have an export brace and Monte Carlo bar installed? Leave them for stability and support. If not yet completed, maybe consider the Arning UCA drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it were my project, I'd remove the power train and all the affected suspension components, yes to the spring. You'll need easy access to the area and the removing the spring, removes any tension. Also, do you have an export brace and Monte Carlo bar installed? Leave them for stability and support. If not yet completed, maybe consider the Arning UCA drop.
I have already removed the engine and tranny and disconnected everything from the frame rail. The only things that remain on that side are the torque box and suspension components. I have an export brace but not a Monte Carlo bar.
 

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I have already removed the engine and tranny and disconnected everything from the frame rail. The only things that remain on that side are the torque box and suspension components. I have an export brace but not a Monte Carlo bar.
I would suggest installing the MB, to add stability and to insure the shock towers do not move, in or out. Once you begin cutting and welding on the frame the triangulation will add support. Also, insure the frame members are level side to side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would suggest installing the MB, to add stability and to insure the shock towers do not move, in or out. Once you begin cutting and welding on the frame the triangulation will add support. Also, insure the frame members are level side to side.
What about welding a brace lower on shock towers between the two to keep them evenly spaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sure you can weld a brace between the towers... You’ll want to support the car so that there is no load bearing on whatever you are working on, or removing. There are a bunch of posts/pictures on this in the build forum. View attachment 790711

Did you change both the inner and outer frame rails? It’s nice to see someone who did it without building a jig. What measurements did you take before hand?
 

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What about welding a brace lower on shock towers between the two to keep them evenly spaced?
While you could weld as mentioned, a quality "M bar" bolts into place, already has the prescribed measurement for the distance between the towers. It can be easily removed when you install the running gear and re-installed to add rigidity to the front end. Besides, If you weld, do you know that your towers have not moved in the last 50+ years?
 

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I replaced the frame rail as one piece. I think if you only had to replace the outer it could be done without moving the inner. If you have to replace the inner, you might as well do the whole frame as one unit.
 

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What about welding a brace lower on shock towers between the two to keep them evenly spaced?
You assume it's correct now. On a 50 year old Mustang without an export brake and Monte Carlo bar, that's unlikely in the extreme.
 
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I replaced the frame rail as one piece. I think if you only had to replace the outer it could be done without moving the inner. If you have to replace the inner, you might as well do the whole frame as one unit.
I agree. You could do partial replacement of the inner, if, say, it was rotted only at the steering gearbox. But the tower and aprons are attached to the inner, so extensive replacement of the inner would necessitate removing the outer, too.
 
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I have already removed the engine and tranny and disconnected everything from the frame rail. The only things that remain on that side are the torque box and suspension components. I have an export brace but not a Monte Carlo bar.
Bold type^^^^added. Is that export brace you have installed? Also, It'd be a good thing if we could see some pics of all this. Good views inside and out, top and bottom of the driver side and some focused on the bottom of the shock tower. How are the front cross member and the brackets for the strut rod and sway bar? Pics of everything as it sits right now would be terrific and help us help you better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bold type^^^^added. Is that export brace you have installed? Also, It'd be a good thing if we could see some pics of all this. Good views inside and out, top and bottom of the driver side and some focused on the bottom of the shock tower. How are the front cross member and the brackets for the strut rod and sway bar? Pics of everything as it sits right now would be terrific and help us help you better.
Yes, the export brace is installed. I will take some photos tonight. The brackets are in good shape but the frame it’s attached to was patched by a previous owner (you will see in the photos)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
790789
790790
790791
790792
790793
790794

as you can see there are plenty of old patches and I have cut out some rust to get a better look inside. The outer frame rail isn’t awful but I purchased full rails (2 piece) so I might as well install the whole thing. The shock tower isn’t too bad, a little rusty at the base but I bought a patch that is supposedly for that spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Bold type^^^^added. Is that export brace you have installed? Also, It'd be a good thing if we could see some pics of all this. Good views inside and out, top and bottom of the driver side and some focused on the bottom of the shock tower. How are the front cross member and the brackets for the strut rod and sway bar? Pics of everything as it sits right now would be terrific and help us help you better.
Pics are posted above
 
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