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Discussion Starter #1
Hello so I have a 1966 mustang that I’m rebuilding an learning as I go. To start off it has a 1969 302 in it. I drained old oil put in new as well as oil filter. New spark plugs, alternator, belts, hoses to radiator, gas
Tank, and fuel filter. I got it to turn over an it stays on for about 5 -10 seconds before dying out it won’t stay idle. What could be stopping it from staying on?? Thank you!
 

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Lot's of stuff, but the leading possibilities, at least in my humble opinion, would include:

1. Improperly adjust automatic choke.
2. Restriction in the fuel system....usually an internally collapsed rubber fuel line.
3. Defective carburetor, foreign materials inside carburetor float bowl(s) or passages.
4. Defective fuel pump.
 

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Hi, thanks joining in with your problem and Welcome to a great forum.
OK, so it cranks, fires and idles, if only for a very short period?
Based on what you stated.... sounds like a fuel delivery issue. This being the case....
1. Has the carbs been rebuilt, to include a good cleaning internally and externally?
2. Is there a nearby external filter that could be clogged?
3. Have you checked the entrance filter to the carb for being clean?
4. How about the fuel pump? Have you checked that it produces a good fuel stream into a bucket?

Most of the time, when a engine starts, idles then dies shortly thereafter, you should suspect fuel delivery. Fuel delivery begins in the tank with the fuel pickup "sock" or screen, you have a line from the tank to the fuel pump, through the fuel pump to the carb and any filters in-between. Could be the diaphram in the pump is bad and not pumping fuel under minimum pressure to the carb? Could be the fuel bowl has sediment and this sediment has has clogged the idle circuit and others. This is why I ask, if the carb has been rebuilt.
Ponder these comments and get back.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So the carburetor I have no clue An I plan on replacing with a new one so hopefully that will work. I asked a buddy of mine an he said it’s not the fuel pump since the line does drain fully thru when it’s disconnected from the carb as well as the fuel gets to the carb. When pushing down the gas it can some times squirt mists of gas out of it. I replaced the rubber hosing parts when replacing the gas tank so those are fine an I see fuel getting to the filter. The fuel lines are a little risty on outside but it’s definitely getting fuel to it. The carb I’m unsure if it’s working correctly or has been rebuilt it doesn’t look too well so it may be the issue. Also I don’t know how to adjust the timing on the distributor or carb I’m not sure how to do that fully as well as what to set it to, it’s currently on whatever timing it originally had or previous owner had
 

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OK, to eliminate the fuel delivery system (tank to the entrance at the carb), remove the fuel connection at the carb and direct into a bucket of some type. Pull the coil lead to the distributor from the coil. Have a helper crank the engine while you hold the line and observe the quality of the fuel stream into the bucket. Is it healthy? Yes, No?
If Yes, this eliminates fuel delivery in simple terms. Next, as you mentioned, suspect a dirty carb and Choke not closing?, as Woodchuck mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So yes I did that as well I didn’t remove the coil tho. I had removed from carb intake line and held over a bucket to see if the gas would pour. It pours when cranking it over an it streams well . I did that when I was trying to empty the old fuel tank some since the original fuel tank plug was stripped. So that’s all good on that end. Unless it’s supposed to stream automatically without turning the engine over? Sorry still learning! Thank you!
 

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So yes I did that as well I didn’t remove the coil tho. I had removed from carb intake line and held over a bucket to see if the gas would pour. It pours when cranking it over an it streams well . I did that when I was trying to empty the old fuel tank some since the original fuel tank plug was stripped. So that’s all good on that end. Unless it’s supposed to stream automatically without turning the engine over? Sorry still learning! Thank you!
Nope, you did good with respect to testing fuel delivery. I would suspect the carb has trash in the bowl. Have you looked in there?
 

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Welcome to the forum. I would recommend that you invest in a Ford shop manual for your car. It'll walk you through repairing things that you're not sure of. The engines are pretty much the same between 66 and 69, 289 vs 302. The carb is probably slightly different between the two model years. Do you have a 2 barrel of 4 barrel carb? The Ford 2100 2 barrel, if that is what you have is easy to rebuild yourself and the rebuild kits are inexpensive. At a minimum you could open it up and inspect the fuel bowl for debris that would restrict the fuel flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It’s a 2 barrel carburetor. I have the for dinner Manuel when I bought the vehicle it came with it so I can check and see if they have the info for rebuilding the carburetor. I was honestly thinking of buying a new one, as well as I didn’t check down it to see if the bowl was dirty I did spray carb cleaner in it! What should I be looking for when I look in it.
 

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It’s a 2 barrel carburetor. I have the for dinner Manuel when I bought the vehicle it came with it so I can check and see if they have the info for rebuilding the carburetor. I was honestly thinking of buying a new one, as well as I didn’t check down it to see if the bowl was dirty I did spray carb cleaner in it! What should I be looking for when I look in it.
You have to remove the (I think six) screws in order to take the top cover off of the carb to inspect the fuel bowl. If you are going to own one of these cars you either have a wad of spare cash to pay someone to fix all the minor issues that will pop up on a 50 y.o. car or you learn to do it yourself. That's where a $30 shop manual comes in handy. They're now on CD. Working on these cars isn't difficult.

What you see looking down the carb while it's on the engine isn't the fuel bowl it's the venture where fuel and air mix and begin to atomize before being sucked into the cylinder prior to compression and detonation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got new info when lookin at it. My transmission vacuum line that runs to the carb broke off like snapped off. Is there a way to replace rhat or do you have to weld a new on back on? Also will that cause it to not stay on when it starts up? Thank you
 

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I got new info when lookin at it. My transmission vacuum line that runs to the carb broke off like snapped off. Is there a way to replace rhat or do you have to weld a new on back on? Also will that cause it to not stay on when it starts up? Thank you
Ok, when ever a vacuum line breaks or is leaking that's not good. You can join the two together with a rubber hose between the two to fix it for the moment. You just don't won't vacuum leaks
Take a pic and let us see what you're are seeing.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
okay i was on mobile and couldnt upload pics. im on my pc right now it also wont let me upload pics how do you upload on here? or i can send an email, thank you!!
 

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okay i was on mobile and couldnt upload pics. im on my pc right now it also wont let me upload pics how do you upload on here? or i can send an email, thank you!!
Ok, to upload pics. scroll down to "Go Advanced" and select, then, scroll down to "Manage Attachments".
You will see a "Choose File" select this. Your will then be able to browse your laptop for the appropriate file or "pic" in this case.
TIP: Knowing you will want to upload a pic, I place the pic on my desktop. Much easier than trolling thru files.
Hopefully didn't miss a step.....?


Hope this helps.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ohhh okay i got it! this is the pictures i have of it up close the hose and the carb where it was plugged in the back. Also could this and a mixture of the timing on carb and distributor be why it wont stay running?? And does any one have a diagram of vacuum hoses are? I want to check if any others are leaking! I have the manual but it doesnt show vacuum lines just electrical wiring.
 

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Ok, that is the heat riser tube that plugs into the exhaust manifold and screws into the Choke. It supplies heat to the Choke "bimetal " spring that retracts as heat from the warming engine increases. As it retracts, it opens the choke plate, that is, if all is working as it should,.....
When the engine is cold the choke plate is closed except for a few mms os approximately 1/8 (.125").
This has "nothing" to do with timing, ignition. It funnels "heat" from the warming exhaust manifold to the the choke, as mentioned. Typically, they fracture and the a piece brake of in the manifold. In which, case, either one attempts to remove the "piece" or simply moves on to a more modern carb and an electric opening choke mechanism.
Hope this helps.....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh okay so it’s not a transmission vacuum line? A buddy of mine said it was lol. Also so that has nothing to do with why the engine won’t stay on for longer then 5-10 seconds? So should I plug that hole? Or remove it first an then plug? Also so any thing else I should check to see why it won’t stay on? Thank you :)
 

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Oh okay so it’s not a transmission vacuum line? A buddy of mine said it was lol. Also so that has nothing to do with why the engine won’t stay on for longer then 5-10 seconds? So should I plug that hole? Or remove it first an then plug? Also so any thing else I should check to see why it won’t stay on? Thank you :)
There are too many variables as t why your engine won't stay running for more than "5-10 Seconds".
It gets back to the carb and this "choke" process, if and when the engine is cold. The choke is only typically engaged when the engine is cold. If an given engine is warm, as in, having been driven for a "period of time", then the choke mechanism "does not" come into play so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ah okay thank you, I appreciate the help a lot! I got a new carb ordered should be in Sunday so we will see if maybe that will help!
 

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Ah okay thank you, I appreciate the help a lot! I got a new carb ordered should be in Sunday so we will see if maybe that will help!
Keep us posted...BTW, add a filter before the carb, or, change the one you have currently.
 
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