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Anyone added a power brake booster with dual bowl master cylinder to 66 mustang cylinder automatic and kept your stock drum brakes up front ? any issues with doing that ? what parts supplier did you use for the booster ?
 

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Spammer Hammer
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Seems like we talk about this every week. Is there a particular reason you feel you need or want a power brake booster in your car? There are probably several here that have done it. There are probably just as many that have tried it and removed it. A brake booster is not going to make your car stop any better. It’s only going to reduce pedal effort.
 

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If the OP is thinking that the booster will improve the performance of his drum brakes he is in for a big lesson in brake performance after he completes the booster installation and finds his car doesn't stop any better than it did before.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Really only want to change because of the single bowl master cylinder , it anything ever goes wrong , all the brakes will fail .Want to go with the dual bowl master cylinder , mainly for safty reasons. Thanks.
 

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Anyone added a power brake booster with dual bowl master cylinder to 66 mustang cylinder automatic and kept your stock drum brakes up front ? any issues with doing that ? what parts supplier did you use for the booster ?
So I asked the same question a while back and despite numerous people around here saying I didn't need it, I thought that my poor braking would be helped by a booster. I put the booster on and the car still didn't stop great, I just didn't have to put as much pressure on the pedal to get the same affect. Turns out my rear drums needed to be replaced. Now the car stops great with just a slight tap on the pedal. It's a little too easy for me. I'm gonna pull mine off and go back to non powered brakes. I liked the "feel" of the prior system I had.

I'm pretty new to this classic car thing, but trust me, there is tons of knowledge in here. Listen to what they all say........you don't need a booster. You just need well adjusted brakes.

I would consider a dual bowl master cylinder specific for manual drum brakes. Just for the safety aspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a new question - If instead i upgrade to front power disc brakes with booster and dual bowl master cylinder , is there anyone that makes a disc brake conversion kit that will let me use my original steel wheels on my 1966 6 cylinder ?. I would like to keep my stock hubcaps . I looked at several suppliers and dont see anyone that offers that.
 

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I have a new question - If instead i upgrade to front power disc brakes with booster and dual bowl master cylinder , is there anyone that makes a disc brake conversion kit that will let me use my original steel wheels on my 1966 6 cylinder ?. I would like to keep my stock hubcaps . I looked at several suppliers and dont see anyone that offers that.
Did you look at ChockoStang website. He is a member here and you can look up feedback from other members.

Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering
 

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I just took my booster off tonight. Just need to bend some new lines and I'll let you know the difference. I have disks front and drums rear. If you are still really dying for a power booster, I might sell you mine cheap. Got it from NPD. Bolts right up to a dual bowl MC and has the pedal adapter that changes the fulcrum to make it correct for power brakes. Find a vacuum source and run some new lines and you're good to go............but remember, some very smart people around here are telling you you don't need the booster.

I'll post over the next couple of days what I think of the braking with and without the booster.
 

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I just took my booster off tonight. Just need to bend some new lines and I'll let you know the difference. I have disks front and drums rear. If you are still really dying for a power booster, I might sell you mine cheap. Got it from NPD. Bolts right up to a dual bowl MC and has the pedal adapter that changes the fulcrum to make it correct for power brakes. Find a vacuum source and run some new lines and you're good to go............but remember, some very smart people around here are telling you you don't need the booster.

I'll post over the next couple of days what I think of the braking with and without the booster.
OP Might want to listen to this message.
 

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My 65 is disc/drum. No need for a booster, if there was a need, I would put it on.

My 67 is drum/drum with a booster. The booster needs to be rebuilt so I would remove it except on a 67 manual and power brakes use a different pedal.

Spend your money on a disc upgrade, rebuild the rear drum brakes and a dual master.

The dual master is a nice upgrade, but your car has made it 50+ years on the single.

Learn to use the emergency brake as your backup if you loose brakes, thats how it was done for many many years.
 

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Friction material. Get some good pads/shoes...... not the chain store crap.
Big difference.

One of my close friends has a shop and has done that scarebird front disc
kit a couple of times so that the original rims could be maintained.
1) the bracketry is pretty wimpy, he copies the originals but fabs thicker brackets
2) mishmash of caliper and rotors are used..... some folks don't care, some do.
The mechanic 5 years down the road will wonder what's on there though.


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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I think a lot of it has to do with new owner's expectations of how a car should feel. Those who started out driving newer cars think the when you start the engine the brake pedal should depress because that's what all the cars they have driven have done. Take someone born after 1990 as an example...chances are they cant even drive a manual transmission(90% or more of them), and their expectation of cars are numb steering, numb brakes, and lane-change assist(all in the name of less effort). The downside to these expectations is that when faced with a car that takes more attention to drive they think things need improvement(and to be fair, there is plenty of room for improvement in vintage mustangs) its just the definition of "improvement" that is different. To me...driving a car SHOULD take attention...the more attention you give a car while driving the safer you are as a driver...and the safer everyone else on the road is as well.
 

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Absolutely no issues with adding a dual-circuit master cylinder. As far as the booster, unless you have a bum leg, not needed, especially with the self-energizing drum brakes.

With the six, the drum brakes provide adequate stopping power when the proper friction materials are used. Like GT289 says, avoid the junk that's out there. Really no need to do a half-arsed "conversion" with fabbed brackets, Toyota rotors and S-10 calipers for ordinary driving. Yes, drum brakes DO have a couple "issues"... if you're coming down the road from Pike's Peak you may want to use a lower gear or stop to let the brakes cool down, periodically, to prevent fade. You also will want to lightly ride the brakes when going through standing water that's deep enough to get between the linings and drum. Other than that, enjoy.
 
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