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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a original style power steering setup. Everything works well. The only thing I'd like to do is make it a little stiffer. My question is can I achieve a stiffer wheel by adjusting the centering spring nut on the end of the control valve?



Thanks for the insight
 

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Ask @CHOCK what pressure limiter to install inline to decrease the pressure from the pump.
 

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I just installed a original style power steering setup. Everything works well. The only thing I'd like to do is make it a little stiffer. My question is can I achieve a stiffer wheel by adjusting the centering spring nut on the end of the control valve?



Thanks for the insight
Stiffer? Please define what you want to achieve when you say "stiffer." Does this mean more road feel or feedback?
Do you merely want to slow down the over-boosted stock system?

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Have it aligned with more caster, which increases return to center and will add some effort.


From Opentracker's site:

https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/

opentracker racing said:
A proper alignment will do wonders for the way your car drives. We call it a performance alignment. The performance alignment has more caster for better stability and Zero or some negative camber for added grip instead of the positive camber the cars came with. Negative camber gives the car more grip but is driver specific. Grandma won’t need as much camber as grandson driving the same car. Tire wear patterns on the street or tire temps across the tread on the track will tell you how much negative camber to use.

STREET SPECS *
Caster:
+2° to +3.5° Manual Steer

+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer

Camber:
0 to -.5°

Toe:
1/8″ in

STREET PERFORMANCE SPECS *

Caster:
+2.0° to +3.5° Manual Steer

+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer

Camber:
-.5° to -1.5°

Toe:
1/8″ in

* Caster and camber settings should be the same on both sides for proper handling.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I do have the 16 to 1 steering gear. All rebuilt. The alignment makes sense. I will probably do that. I guess for a lack of proper terms it is just too easy to turn. It is very sensitive. Just a slight turn of the wheel and it responds. I just want to take some of the power out of the power steering I guess would be a way to describe it.

Thanks for the help
 

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5Z-A1A pump pulley off an 80-86 302 Truck. It's about 6" vs the original which is
around 4.5" (there are a few on eBay right now).
It'll kill most of the over-boosted feel to the steering that you have now.
You'll want to get 1 more sheave on your water pump pulley and run your new P/S
belt over that, down to the crank pulley and back to the P/S pump.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So GT 289 is that what you did on yours? Obviously yes by the pic but did you have an over boosted feel to yours before?


It makes a lot of sense.
 

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They're all that way. The stock 4.5" pulley drives that pump WAY too fast.

Shelby's solution on the '67 350's was a 7" pulley, 7AC.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/7AC-Power-Steering-Pump-Pulley-1967-Shelby-GT350-289-HiPo-/181506890620
Those are pricey items these days. My favorite was a 7" off a Mopar.
(you had to do some lathe word and open up the shaft size because the
Ford pump is bigger) 7 is about the max..... really kills the power
assist in the parking lot but it's pretty good at 80+ on the race track.
Comes close to hitting the windshield washer bag too on a '66..... that's
the other downside.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Discussion Starter #10
These are all great ideas. I will go with a bigger pulley and route it over the water pump too.



I appreciate all the feedback.
Cheers!
 

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Hi guys - hope everyone is doing well.

Can I ask if this was ever done? Would this work for a later 1971-1973 351 Mustang?

Thanks in advance for information you can share.
 

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Can't speak for Mr66Mustangcam, but it would work on your car. A larger pulley has the effect of lessening both
pressure and flow. For a 71-73 we'd usually upgrade the PS pump to a Saginaw to match the Saginaw box in
those cars. The neat thing about that particular pump is that you can easily vary the output pressure because
the valve is located right at the output side of the pump, under the hose fitting.
We'd just swap it out for another GM valve..... that we'd buy over the parts counter.
Optionally, you can add a shim or two to the valve you have already and lower the pressure slightly to see if that helps.
There is also a school of thought that overboosted power steering is best addressed by flow reducers
(you can find them out on the market) that will provide some improvement to steering feel.

Last but not least, internally in the Saginaw box is a thing called a torsion bar. A stiffer torsion bar will increase steering effort.
Not for a DIY person, though.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0901-gm-steering-box-upgrade/

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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@GT289 - super helpful as always. I hope you are doing well and very much appreciate the information.
 

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@GT289 - super helpful as always. I hope you are doing well and very much appreciate the information.
Still alive and kicking. Rumors of my demise are greatly exaggerated.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Can I ask if this was ever done? Would this work for a later 1971-1973 351 Mustang?
I use the 6 1/4" D0OR-B, which is the largest pump pulley I have on hand and it definitely helps with the steering feel over the 5 1/2" pulley. That said, you need to start with fresh components. If your car is feeling loose and overboosted, it's most likely more the wear in the system than the boost pressure. The first time I installed a rebuilt steering box, I couldn't believe the difference in feel. I would start with fresh ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms. If you've already done that, or it still feels loose, as rebuild on the box would be in order. You do have options with the steering box, but let's get to your other issues first.
 

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They're all that way. The stock 4.5" pulley drives that pump WAY too fast.

Shelby's solution on the '67 350's was a 7" pulley, 7AC.
7AC Power Steering Pump Pulley 1967 Shelby GT350 289 HiPo | eBay
Those are pricey items these days. My favorite was a 7" off a Mopar.
(you had to do some lathe word and open up the shaft size because the
Ford pump is bigger) 7 is about the max..... really kills the power
assist in the parking lot but it's pretty good at 80+ on the race track.
Comes close to hitting the windshield washer bag too on a '66..... that's
the other downside.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
This is a little off subject but, Could you get a 67 Mustang with a Hipo 289 and power steering?
 

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Not unless your name was Shelby. I think any '67 you see with power steering and a factory K-code engine
will be manual steering..... unless the dealer installed P/S. And supposedly only GT or GTA cars to get the hipo.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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I use the 6 1/4" D0OR-B, which is the largest pump pulley I have on hand and it definitely helps with the steering feel over the 5 1/2" pulley. That said, you need to start with fresh components. If your car is feeling loose and overboosted, it's most likely more the wear in the system than the boost pressure. The first time I installed a rebuilt steering box, I couldn't believe the difference in feel. I would start with fresh ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms. If you've already done that, or it still feels loose, as rebuild on the box would be in order. You do have options with the steering box, but let's get to your other issues first.
@Hemikiller - good considerations, thanks, sloppy nsteering due to wear won't be helped by this mod. Was that pulley you reference a bolt on? Anything needed by way of machining? Does the reduction in boost/assist remain noticeable at highway speeds?

I read somewhere that this mod would only reduce steering boost at parking and low RPM situations, and the argument was that is when you need it. Don't think that is the case but wanted to ask.

@GT289 - I'll just discount all the rumors I hear about you then, grin. Glad you are doing well.

Thanks gentlemen, stay safe.
 
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