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Discussion Starter #1
Here's what I've got:
All new turn signal cam, and a reproduction woodgrain steering wheel. Everything is new. The turn signals work fine. The problem is with the cancelling. When I signal a left turn, then turn the wheel left, the turn signal is cancelling at about a quarter turn of the wheel. Same thing with a right turn. The cancelling cam on the steering wheel can be put in any position and it does the same thing.

Would be grateful for any help. I'm hoping to get the car back on the road for the first time in probably 30 years in the next week, and would like to have working turn signals.
 

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From what I've heard, and a bit more from experience, the cam replacement doesn't work very well. I've gone through two signal switches, and need another replacement: the one that was on my car when I bought it (2004), another one that caught fire (scary, to say the least), and the one that's in the car now. Right signal works but doesn't cancel, left I have to hold it down (PITA with the T5... need 3 hands). Point being - the repro's aren't very good, and I've heard the replacement cams aren't any good either. If it's cancelling early my guess would be that it was designed for a car that has power (or power assist) steering where the steering wheel required less rotation to cancel the switch. Might want to consider living with it.
 

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What brand model of Steering wheel? A few aren't made all that well.
 

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I was dealing with the same issue after replacing my TS switch (brake lights not working correctly). I found that the plastic is a little too stiff and the cam bumps the outer edge of the plastic instead of the catch it is supposed to contact. I just bent the plastic back and forth a bit and made it more flexible, I also greased everything well to help it slip better, and everything works fine. I suppose a little heat might have helped the situation, but I was able to limber it up with just a little coaxing. My biggest issue was the horn contacts on the replacement switch were rubbing and the horn would randomly sound when making a turn. This was also due to some slight distortions in the shape, but I was able to bend that as well, then some dielectric grease got everything slipping quietly. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm wanting to say it's a KSR steering wheel but that might not be right.
I put my original wheel back on and it does the same thing. I'm thinking that the bend and lube trick posted above may be the answer, but not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Problem Solved!
Taking Kellysedars advice, I worked the plastic a little and applied some grease. That almost fixed it. It worked intermittently but not reliable enough. The solution was to use my original "cancel prongs" from the old steering wheel.

The orange one is original, and the black one reproduction from the new steering wheel:
001.jpg

002.jpg

As you can see, the original is curved and the repop is almost a 90 degree angle. I imagine with enough patience the repro. could be made to work.
 

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Problem Solved!
Taking Kellysedars advice, I worked the plastic a little and applied some grease. That almost fixed it. It worked intermittently but not reliable enough. The solution was to use my original "cancel prongs" from the old steering wheel.

The orange one is original, and the black one reproduction from the new steering wheel:
View attachment 574714

View attachment 574722

As you can see, the original is curved and the repop is almost a 90 degree angle. I imagine with enough patience the repro. could be made to work.

Just bought the new steering wheel -ed the new "prongs" are in a different position. Haven't looked to see if they're rounded or more 90 degree like, but I will tonight. I had decided to try to move the prongs to the location of the original steering wheel but didn't know how to move or disassemble the prongs from the wheel? Obviously you took both of your off - how do they come off - didn;'t want to learn by breaking them. Good thread - and pictures are super helpful.
 

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^^^ They friction fit on the shaft within the wheel. You should be able to get under them with a angled pick or screw driver and pry upward to push it off.
 

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Put a screw driver between the two prongs and turn them to the new position. you should be able to move them without damaging them.
 

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Virginia Mustang's Rep Robert advised me that doesn't matter where the prongs are situated around the hub, it'll cancel from any location.

Thanks ophthos & 66Coupe289, I did get the original off the first steerin wheel, wedging a pick under opposite ends and as it came whizzing by my right ear, I remember Robert's words, "you should definitely throw a towel over that, it might...." Landed right in the middle of my hood and brand new paint job. Luckily no ding or scratch. I hope Robert's towel idea resonates and helps anyone doing this in the future.
 

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Virginia Mustang's Rep Robert advised me that doesn't matter where the prongs are situated around the hub, it'll cancel from any location.

It will but it will cancel at different times when you turn the wheel. Put the prongs so they a centered between the cams, IE 9:00 on the steering column. This way you don't have to turn the wheel a ton for them to cancel.
 
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