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Discussion Starter #1
Hello mustang world, I recently acquired a 1967 mustang convertible that needs to be put back together. I was lucky enough that the previous owner had a shop completely disassemble the vehicle, put on a rotisserie, sand blast, rust repair and paint. Then he lost interest and I ended up with a project with all of the hard and expensive work done already ?

I am going to post as I am able to complete projects, take as many pictures and videos as I can and pick all you guru’s brains until this project is completed. I am not a mechanic, but I have been working on cars and motorcycles for years in my garage and feel like I can take on this project as it has been a dream of mine to do something like this. I have a tight budget of $3000 at the moment, which I am hoping will get me most of the way there.

The previous owner gave me all of the parts and pieces that were taken off of the car with a few exceptions such as the gas tank and windshield. I will find out more as I go. All the bolts and screws were labeled and bagged and most of the painted parts that are not on the body are in bubble wrap and ready to be put on. Please bare with me as I will be asking many questions, some will be dumb and obvious to some of you. I am here to learn, have fun, and hopefully help out other people who don’t think they have it in them to complete a project of this magnitude.

I am sure this build will not be a quick project for me considering I have 2 jobs and an 11 month old baby at the house, but I will update everybody when i get time.
 

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I contacted midlife harness restoration and he is shut down for a few months due to the hurricane that hit Florida. So once he get back up and running I will send off my harness for it to be gone through. In the mean time, I had an 2 hours of time to work on the engine a bit and just try to clean it up. I used a few different wires wheels on my angle grinder and it is coming out pretty good so far. I have never messed with an engine before so i am going slow and trying to learn as I go. I found the engine block code C5AE-6015E, after doing a bit of research it could be a desirable engine block. I doubt it due to the 2v intake and carb setup. Any input would be helpful.

I took the valve covers off and the heads appear to be terribly filthy. I’m not sure if there is any way to clean them without taking the heads off, the thought of doing that is concerning to me. I will do a check of the rod bearings when I get time to get an idea if the engine is healthy or not. I will also try to get a leak down test kit, i hate to buy one for a one time use.
 

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You have a big decision to make. Do you go ahead and tear the engine down and have everything checked for wear or do you put it in the car as-is and take your chances?
That cylinder head was cast on Aug 18, 1966 (6H18) so it went in a very early 1967 model car. Does your car have an early VIN?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ill have to check for the vin when i get home tomorrow, I’m not sure when it was made. Due to my tight budget i can’t afford to rebuild the entire motor at this point. I am going to do some basic checks to see where I stand before making any big decisions, I am crossing my fingers she is as good as the previous owner claimed. As of now I am going to clean it up, replace a few things such as the, oil pump and water pump, possibly other things if need be and see how she goes.
 

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Nice starting place. We apparently have different definitions of basket cases. Rings, bearings and gaskets are a few hundred dollars if that's all it needs. A used roller 5.0 can be had for 5 to $600.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I popped off the oil pan tonight to check the bearings. I started with the rod bearings sides to side. I believe the highest reading I got was .004. I've been reading different posts and I believe that that number is ok for the side to side clearance. I then pulled off the bearing and I was super happy with how smooth it was. It was like glass, not a single ridge. I simply used my finger nail to test it out. I then moved on to the main bearing next to it and was also super happy to find the exact same quality. I reattached them lightly until I can borrow a torque wrench from AutoZone. I did make sure to reinstall the caps in the exact same orientation as they were.

As of now I'm going to replace the oil pump and try to clean it up a bit. I'm hoping to do a leak down test to make me feel more comfortable about the piston rings before I put the engine in the car.

If I say something stupid or anybody has any recommendations, please feel free to chime in. I don't plan on tearing the engine down internally any more unless I have to.
 

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The VIN is 7F03C133032, not sure what all that means but I'm sure you experts know.

Yes, that's an early '67. Serial numbers began at 100001 every model year so yours was the 33,031st Mustang assigned a VIN at Dearborn. If you have the original Warranty Plate still attached to the driver's door it will tell you the projected assembly date.
 

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Projected assembly date 14M translates to Dec 14, 1966. If the heads and block were cast in Aug. the engine should have been assembled in Sep. Do you know where to find the engine assembly date stamped into the block just forward of the driver side head?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had to take a little break from working on the car, but finally started to get back at it. I was able to stop by a shop called mustang restorations in east dundee, il. I spoke to the owner of the shop to get some guidance and he was super helpful and gave me a good place to start. He suggested to start with the electrical and get the heater box rebuilt. So I decided to start going through the wire harness. I was going to source it out but I think this is a job I can tackle myself, or at least hope so. I found the main harness and engine bay Harness and started cleaning it up, and to my suprise it is not in terrible shape. After scrubbing the wires and connectors with some basic cleaner and a lot of elbow grease, a lot of the grime has come off and all of the wiring is intact so far. I did have one issue with a connector, one of the tongs completed disintegrated when I took it apart. I’m currently looking for a replacement connecter, and I’d like it to look professional. Even though nobody will see it, I still want it done right. Does anybody have any ideas where i can get something that would like nice? I’m thinking even autozone might have something this simple.
 

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That's not a basket case... Check mine out and see what a basket case is. It took me 3 trips to get it all home and it has needed allot of metal replacement and most of it was missing... Yours is a kit.


As for the connector pigtails are available as they are a molded on type connector like a trailer connector. I have never checked to see if they are the same pin size or spacing but if they are the same... It would be an available source and you might be able to cut them down to less terminals.
But here is a link to one at NPD. Not sure if it is the one you need though. pigtail

I personally tend to replace those terminals with more modern better quality ones as I like to improve things where I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks for the information, what modern equivalent would you recommend, I'm not opposed to replacing it with a better option as it is hidden away. Everything exposed (with the exception of the engine bay) I am trying to keep original or original looking at least.
 

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That's not a basket case... Check mine out and see what a basket case is. It took me 3 trips to get it all home and it has needed allot of metal replacement and most of it was missing... Yours is a kit.


As for the connector pigtails are available as they are a molded on type connector like a trailer connector. I have never checked to see if they are the same pin size or spacing but if they are the same... It would be an available source and you might be able to cut them down to less terminals.
But here is a link to one at NPD. Not sure if it is the one you need though. pigtail

I personally tend to replace those terminals with more modern better quality ones as I like to improve things where I can.
You can get the trailer plugs in a wide variety of configurations, from 2 to 5 wires. I wouldn't be surprised if they were the same as used on these cars. Has anyone checked?

Weatherpacks (at least the ones from 90s GM) are really nice but really bulky, not as much of a problem in a car but if you are space constrained there are better options. Weatherpacks are nice as the pins are easily crimped with a simple crimper unlike the the DT/AT ones that take a really special tool.




Deutsch DT stuff is really nice but if you are going to do that way then make sure you check out the Amphenol AT stuff, which is completely compatible and way less expensive.



Modern wiring connectors are typically made for much thinner wire than what is on vintage vehicles so keep that in mind.

And if you want to really dig into the weeds this looks interesting. And disturbing there are so many varieties on Fords.

 

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Great information, thank you for being so thorough in your options and links. You guys have all been a great help so far!
I've rewired a few vintage bikes that are about as complicated as a vintage Mustang. For the one I used Weatherpack which is really bulky on a bike and the other I used Molex, which was much smaller but not waterproof. It was original to the bike though.

For my Mustang I will probably use Weatherpack. Not sure yet.
 
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