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1967 Ford Mustang fastback
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
I recently purchased both the drivers side and passenger side one piece frame rail and shock towers from Dynacorn. I'm getting everything mocked up. I have the frame rail squared up and correct with the rest of the car according to the shop manual dimensions.
The problem I am having is that the driver side apron is more than a 1/2" too short in total length. When I measure just the aprons without including the extension that mounts the apron to the cowl i am getting 39 3/8"". The radiator support does not line up and all of the fender bolt holes are off the same amount. It seems like the aprons have to move towards the radiator support for everything to line up.
I installed the passenger side and the total length is 40" and the fender holes and the radiator support line up perfectly.
I'm trying to figure out where the difference is coming from. I'm thinking the aprons are welded in the wrong location since the frame rail is in the correct location. Anyone else have a dynacorn assembly they could measure for me?
 

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1967 Ford Mustang fastback
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Discussion Starter #2
Or does anyone have the measurement from a stock assembly?
 

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Well, I've got some measurements from my 67 for you but they aren't the Dynacorn assemblies. I've read several reports where those assemblies are a bit off in total length. Some people resort to cutting the spot welds to reposition the aprons to get the length right.

On my car, I've replaced quite a bit but I'm pretty confident in my numbers, in the fact that the firewall and radiator support are parallel and everything is square. I'm using the stock shock towers and front aprons but replaced the rear aprons. Keep that in mind that's it's not original but I think it's going to be close and square. One thing I noticed in researching measurements is that the measurement is different from side to side but the main measurement I used when positioning the core support was to my upper cowl, which I don't have positioned in these photos.

These are to the front of the radiator support. Driver's side is 39-3/4 and RH side is 40-1/16. This dimension is sort of bogus because the measurement to the back of the fender apron is NOT an important surface.

20200424_183441[1].jpg 20200424_183441[1].jpg

I think the important measurement is to the firewall, NOT the back of the apron. For both of those, I get around 41-1/4" LH side and 41-3/8" RH side.

20200424_183417.jpg 20200424_183357[1].jpg


Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for those measurements!
I'm thinking that the whole side (shock tower and aprons) is welded to the frame rail in the wrong position. Seems like it is too far back on the rail. All of the bolt holes for the fender are shifted back towards the cowl but the spacing between them is correct.
 

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I did that exact same work a couple of years ago using those Dynacorn assemblies on my 67 convertible and got very good results. As a matter of fact I also replaced the radiator support, the full cowl, the firewall, front torque boxes, both A pillars, complete floor, rocker panels,etc. Yes, a lot of work. This was the first time I ever did body work, welding, restoring a car, etc so I'm no expert but everything turned out in the end. Since the car is now completely finished the only straight-on, accurate measurement I could make was from the front face of the cowl (at the top of the cowl across from where it meets the hood) to the front of the radiator support where it is welded to the front of the assembly. The measurement is the same on both sides and measures 44 1/4 inch. That said, I did have to elongate the fender attachment holes in the driver side assembly in order to get the fender to fit correctly so don't stress too much since this is an easy thing to do, the fender attachment brackets have quite a bit of front-to-back movement (which helps with the final fitment) and all is completely hidden by the fender anyway when attached. It appears that yours is the same issue that I also experienced but this is not unusual for reproduction parts and not a show stopper. The shop manual dimensions do not apply (exactly) when using reproduction parts because, as you know, reproduction parts are not the same as OEM parts. The critical things you need to do are outlined below.

Here's some of the things that I did to ensure that everything will fit during final assembly and some recommendations for your consideration. In addition to the cowl braces being installed during the mock up you should also install the engine support crossbar on the underside of the assemblies - that way you'll be assured of side to side correctness at the lower level. You should also definitely attached the fenders and hood before doing any welding. This will ensure that the tops of the assemblies are not splayed too far out. Use sheet metal screws to attach things a bit more securely if necessary. When I did this I found out that the hood would not attach to the hood hinges because the driver side assembly was approximately 1/2 inch too far outboard. You will want to know if the tip of the hood will line up with the headlight buckets exactly so you should also install temporarily install the headlight buckets on the fenders before test fitting the fenders (especially if you're also installing repro hood, fenders and/or headlight buckets). This was all very time consuming but since the hood to fender fitment and the hood to cowl fitment is critical when the car is complete the only way to get it exactly right is to mock everything up at this stage in the restoration. After welding the assemblies to the torque boxes and firewall, etc I then temporarily installed the upper and lower control arms, front wheels and strut rods to make sure that the strut rod attachment brackets would be completely straight since I also replaced the strut rod attachment brackets that are welded to the bottom of the radiator apron and engine assembly.

Remember, at this critical part of the restoration patience is definitely a virtue and mocking things up with the parts that you will use during final assembly is the only way to get everything correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for all of your tips!
I guess my major concern is how much I would have to push the radiator support back in order to weld it to the apron on the driver side. Right now the end of the apron to the cowl where the hood meets is about 43.5". I'll have to double check but believe the passenger side is at 44.5". Maybe I'll try splitting the difference and shoot for 44" on each side.
 

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Thank you for all of your tips!
I guess my major concern is how much I would have to push the radiator support back in order to weld it to the apron on the driver side. Right now the end of the apron to the cowl where the hood meets is about 43.5". I'll have to double check but believe the passenger side is at 44.5". Maybe I'll try splitting the difference and shoot for 44" on each side.
Keep in mind that the fenders bolt to the front of the core support, on the sides behind the headlight buckets. You could run into issues with the fender too far away from the door. I would recommend fitting the doors, fenders, cowl, and hood before deciding on the core support location. Gaps are everything. Also the tops of the fenders should align with all the clip nut slots in the aprons.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

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I used the same complete sections on my '66. Pass side was a tad short and I ended up adding to the rear apron and extending the frame rail so all would mate with the floor and firewall. Took some time but worked out.
 
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